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Grinding noise

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Prophet216

RCTalk Basher
Messages
66
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Points
80
Location
Cleveland ohio
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
When I roll my rusty by hand it sounds as if their is sand or something inside the tranny. Started off as a rubbing whisteling sound, almost sounded like the tire rubber was rubbing against shock springs and making a squeek. After it was off and I was doing after run things I noticed I can hear grit it sounds like in the tranny someplace or in linkage very close to tranny. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
Have you taken the transmission apart and done a visual inspection?
 
I am a fan of keeping it simple, take a look at the brake disc. Make sure it didn't overheat and warp. Possibly a clutch issue, contaminants inside or a bearing on it's way out? Possibly coming from your cv's or dogbones?
Did it do anything odd when you were running it or did you only notice this when you were doing your after run? Any info like that will Def help narrow it down.
 
I am a fan of keeping it simple, take a look at the brake disc. Make sure it didn't overheat and warp. Possibly a clutch issue, contaminants inside or a bearing on it's way out? Possibly coming from your cv's or dogbones?
Did it do anything odd when you were running it or did you only notice this when you were doing your after run? Any info like that will Def help narrow it down.
I can hear the whistle when accelerating, but after run I noticed I can easily hear a gritty, sandy, noise when rolling by hand forwards or backwards, and its not as free as it should be.

Does not roll as free as it should*
 
Assuming no other prior suggestions have helped... Does the noise only happen when both rear wheels are moving forward or with one or the other wheel stopped, or while you spin one forward and one back?
 
Assuming no other prior suggestions have helped... Does the noise only happen when both rear wheels are moving forward or with one or the other wheel stopped, or while you spin one forward and one back?
Only while both are being moved, when the drive train is engaged. Of I only spin one it will spin free and long
 
The whistle could be that your gear mesh is too tight. You change this by loosening the engine screws and sliding the engine backwards, as it is too tight. To test the gear mesh hold the clutch bell, and there should be a small amount of play and also should be able to run a piece of paper through the two gears without it tearing, but to also have sharp creases.
 
hold the spur gear so it can't spin. Spin one of the tires (so that the differential is working) in both directions. Do you get the noise then? Do you feel any of that 'grit' or hear the squeak at all?
 
M
The whistle could be that your gear mesh is too tight. You change this by loosening the engine screws and sliding the engine backwards, as it is too tight. To test the gear mesh hold the clutch bell, and there should be a small amount of play and also should be able to run a piece of paper through the two gears without it tearing, but to also have sharp creases.
Mesh is fine, also spur is not take any wear and tear, I'm almost certain is not spur or CB. I'm thinking dirt in tranny or in joints somewhere along driveshaft or u joints, maybe planetary gears. Still open to suggestions. Will post what I find as well.
 
That's why I'm asking you to hold the spur and give the tire a spin. As I am asking you these things, I'm comparing your answers to my jato. Obviously not the same car but you've narrowed down the possible locations for the friction a lot. Of you are getting the noise with the spur held from spinning, it's most likely in your diff.
 
When I roll my Jato backwards, the spur and clutch bell are forced to move. When I roll it forward, the spur and pinion can be held still. Just to clarify, are you getting the same noise in either direction? And when you roll it forward, with the spur held stopped, you get no noise? (i am trying to eliminate the clutch bell bearings, not the mesh, and slipper as possible culprits)
 
Lol, I do believe it was a dirty brake. Took apart the brake, cleaned, reassembled, sprayed with WD 40, sounds like new.
 
Lol! Well at least we got to go a lot more forward before we went back! :)) Just make sure the disc isn't warped or anything like that while you're there.

Make sure you get all the wd40 off the brakes or they aren't likely to work right.;)

I think the typical initial setting would be to tighten it up then back it off between an 1/8 and a 1/4 turn. Not actually owning a Rustler, that's about all I can give you. You want to be sure it gives a lil bit when you goose the throttle but that's about it.
 
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How tight do I make the slipper?
You were talking about brakes? Slippers I don't know much about, other than that there's some test where you hold the back two wheels and it should lift up but still slip. I might be wrong, I've never owned a car with one.
 
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