Great, Now My Brakes Are Jacked Up

[ChiefGeek]

Brakes jacked up... Now full teardown...

Edit: i started trying to figure out how to fix my brakes, now the car is in pieces. It's learning time...

Original post:
Ok, so i finally fixed a hundred and one problems with this savage x and it's running like a top. Now the leaver that comes out the side for the brakes, it just spins. No longer locks up the brakes. I'm hoping one of you RC geniuses will be able to nail this and tell me it's an easy fix like you have done before. Just when I though I was in the clear.

 

[heathW]

Check and make sure caliper screws are tight mine did the same thing one screw was almost all the way out.

 

[ChiefGeek]

My biggest problem is my overwhelming lack of understanding of the internal workings of these cars. I'm learning as I go but things like this it doesn't seem to matter how long I stare are the manual I just can't find what I'm looking for. This time I kinda came close, but still going to have to go into this project learning as I go hoping I get it fixed and dont cause more problems for myself.

 

[Rolex]

Enlarge this photo for a good look at the brake system. Whether you have the single or double disk system, that little brass barrel is pushed against them when you apply the brakes. The control arm going into the trans acts as a cam to apply the pressure.
If that brass barrel is missing, you won't have any brakes.

 

[ChiefGeek]

Is there a cam or something attached to the rod that goes into transfer? Just trying to figure out how the turning action of that rod moves the brass pusher? Will take a picture of the pads and other pieces and maybe you guys can recommend if they need replaced or not.

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[Rolex]

At the end of the rod going into the trans, there's a flat spot cut into it. At neutral position, the brass barrel is relaxed against the flat spot, and when the rod is rotated by the linkage, the barrel is pushed out against the discs. That's the cam that activates the brake.


EDIT:
Found a pic that should help you understand how it works.

Click it.

 

[ChiefGeek]

Now that makes perfect sense. Sounds like I lost that brass piece though. Any suggestions on an entry strategy? I tend to locate the problem and start yanking screws out. Not always the best way.

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[MustangMan]

Basically, the rod that goes into the side of the trans has a flat spot machined in it. The brass insert that you see pushing on the first brake pad sits in this flat spot. When the brake lever is pulled, the rod rotates the flat spot, acting as a cam lobe, and pushes the brass insert outwards towards the brake discs.

Check to see if the brake disc retaining screws have loosend and/or you lost the brass insert.

HTH...
Mark

 

[Rolex]

I added a pic to my previous post.

The Click it link will take you to Tower Hobbies parts.

 

[ChiefGeek]

Not quite sure how to access it. Do I just start tearing stuff out, or is there a relatively easy way to get to it?

Are the disks the the brakes compress on supposed to be wobbley?

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[MustangMan]

Loosen the set screw in the end of the brake lever shaft and remove the black plastic brake lever. If the brass insert is indeed missing then the brake lever shaft should slide right out of the side of the transmission.

To install your new parts slide the brake shaft into the trans with the flat spot on the end lined up with the opening in the trans where the brass insert goes. You'll have to loosen/remove the brake pads/disc to insert the brass insert, then put the brakes back together. Finally, reinstall the plastic brake lever into the brake lever shaft and tighten the set screw.

According to the Savage manual, the brass insert is 86092B and the shaft is 86092A, but you can only get them as a set through the PN shown above by Rolex.

HTH...
Mark

 

[ChiefGeek]

Well I said screw it decided on a full teardown. I gotta learn how all this stuff works and its either a little at a time or all at once. This thing is so filthy that it needs a through cleaning anyways. Think the title of this thread is going to change.

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[ChiefGeek]

Tool brakes all apart, scrubbed down with decrease, and now I'm putting back together. How do I tight do I tighten these screws holding the metal pieces on? I gotta be missing something here because I can't tighten them down or else nothing moves. Is this a form of adjustment?

PS scrubbed a few pounds of grease, grit, gunk, and grime and I've barely scratched the surface.

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[Rolex]

I had the same problem and put a thin washer at the base of each rod to make the disks a little looser.
Keep rolling the disks to make sure you don't have any drag on them in the neutral position.

 

[ChiefGeek]

I just kept rolling the disks like you said and it seems to have worked. Continuing on with my tear down and cleaning. My steering servo is a hitec hs-645mg. Is this a decent one or something that would benefit from an upgrade later on?

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[savagefan04]

the 645 is okay. there are better/stronger ones out there but if its working i say leave it there until it dies. no sense in spending the money just to spend it...

 

[ChiefGeek]

Done. Luckily that brass piece was there, just gummed up in gunk?.

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[MustangMan]

Glad to hear...

The Hitech 645Mg was "the" servo to run on the Savy back in the day. I have the same one and it still works great five years later. Are there better servos now? Sure, but don't throw money at it until it needs it. The 645 and a hump pack (instead of AA bats) make for a good bashing setup.

Nice lid BTW too! My wife has an '02 Explorer Sport Trac and I never got a chance to buy that lid when Parma (?) was making them. You don't see too many of them around...

Mark

 

[ChiefGeek]

I have the hump pack, says traxxas on it. The body image not sure on. Came with the truck. I want a f150 raptor body, but only seen the slash ones.

All errors and types brought to you by swift via crapatalk.

 

[Racer 1966]

Nice looking truck,glad you got it all fixed up