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Good first hop ups???

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Domination

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What are some good first hop ups for my 2.5 t-maxx that will make it beefier and durable like things that are vurnerable to stress and break alot I'm already getting RPM steering knuckles. I was thinking also getting some aluminum shock mounts but i dunno if not for durability you could also tell me some hop ups for performance
 
id say deck the truck out with RMP stuff, but atleast get the A-Arms they make
 
Start with giving it a stronger backbone.

i.e. aluminum bulkheads and chassis rails.
 
I would not reccomend the RPM shock towers. They are too flexible. I took a couple of upside-down landings and because of their flexibility they dented in 2 manifold before I realized what the problem was. For towers and body posts, I would personally suggest you stick with aluminum or stronger.
 
i wasn't thinking of RPM towers neways i was looking at Hardcore Racing tower but they seem a lil pricey
 
Hey Bro,

Your plastic shocks with plastic shock caps are fine until you can afford to get nice shocks down the road. Don't go and waste your money on aluminum caps and crap that you don't need for good performing shocks. Not to mention that adding Metal caps to a plastic body could cause more damage when/if you have a nasty accident.

Honestly, if I could have done it over again I would have bought a nice used T-maxx that's already hoped up to whatever extent on E-bay as I've replaced most everthing on my Maxx with superior components or plan too (other then battery box, Reciver box tranny and diffs). Anyway, You need to seriously look @ your Maxx and what you want to do with it. You also need to decide how you ultimately want the truck to be when "finished" (no -one ever finishes with hop ups hehe). Read a ton here and abroad and research every product your going to get and how it might or might not place/play nice with future products you want.

Like the other poster reco'd. I would outfit you truck with most everything PRM makes as their products are bad ass and they'll replace them if broken, no questions asked. IMHO...RPM is the best RC product company on the planet for what they make. In order of importance...

1. RPM Bulkhead Braces - Don't go and spend your money now on expensive alluminum bulkhead braces. Their's some companies that are currently designing or have designed supeior bullkhead designs. Definitely wait on bulkheads for now. The RPM Bulkhead braces will seriously decrease your chances of breaking the stock plastic ones until you have the bucks to buy alluminum. $10.00 or so. Also make sure you follow the RPM Bulkhead brace instructions to a "T".

1. Titanium HingePins - The stock pins can and will bend with relative ease when doing hard bashing and big jumps. Even the TI pins can bend but you basically have to hit a wall full speed to do that. Nothing is designed to be strong enough for you to hit a wall.....lol. Some things come close though. Around $20.00

2. RPM A-ARMS to go with your the Titanium Shock pins and the Knuckles you say your getting. The RPM Knuckles with "oversized" bearings will make your care drive smoother then the stock ones and can take allot more wheel load. Around $50.00 for a full set of A-arms.

3. A superior cooling head for your engine. I don't care what anyone says, the Stock 2.5 cooling head is a joke for a .15 motor that's ported the way the 2.5 is. A cooling head for a Nitro motor is the same prinicpal and thing as a "heat sink" on a computer processor. THe Nova head and others are very nice but tend to be very expensive..around $50. THeir's some great cooling heads on the market for around $30 or less if you shop around.

4. Titanium TurnBuckles. The Stock turnbuckles are strong but eventually (sometimes within the first week of bashing) your stock buckles can and will bend. Also, the cheesy plastic ends on the stock turnbuckles are el-sucko and break easy. I'd reco a 1/8th Scale Ti Turnbuckle set form Lundsford Racing or Unlimited Engineering. Even if you don't get TI Turnbuckles now, do yourself a favor and get stronger and bigger plastic connecting ends NOW bro.

5. Metal Geared servo. THe Stock Traxxas Stock Traxxas steering servo is less then stellar dude. When your ready to get a good Digital or Analog servo their's a plehtora of info here and aborad.

6. A "SERVO SAVER" system. The Stock T-Maxx "Servo Saver/Steering system is pretty pathetic in IMHO and that of many. Unlimited Engineering, RPM and others have come out with killer systmes that will offer superior steering, holding and keep you from destroying your servo if you get in a nasty front end accident.

That should keep you busy for now.

Peace

Originally posted by Domination
i wasn't thinking of RPM towers neways i was looking at Hardcore Racing tower but they seem a lil pricey

Don't go out and spend big bucks on metal shock towers until you've addressed the truly weak points of your maxx.

Peace
 
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I agree with 30% on this, everything he suggested more or less is what I have done and am currently doing to my Maxx and then some.

Alum shock towers are a waste imo. One good impact to the ground inverted and you risk a bent shock tower. With alum, you throw it away and get a new one $$$$. If you have the RPM's, they may not even suffer any damage. If one does get damaged, sent it back to RPM and they send you a new one for nada. Gotta love that warranty. I feel the same about alum a-arms. They are more for show and not go.
 
ok thanx alot 30% thats really alot of help but the thing about buyin a already hoppedup one from ebay thats just not me i love hoppin things up wether its my MAXX, pb guns, cars i just love doing it then goin and bashin wit the new stuff

hey hows this its a kit of TI turnbuckles and pins from lunsford racing for a 1/8 (savage) for just under $60 my question is will the pins for the 1/8 fit in the maxx TI Turnbuckles & Pins
 
Originally posted by Domination
ok thanx alot 30% thats really alot of help but the thing about buyin a already hoppedup one from ebay thats just not me i love hoppin things up wether its my MAXX, pb guns, cars i just love doing it then goin and bashin wit the new stuff

hey hows this its a kit of TI turnbuckles and pins from lunsford racing for a 1/8 (savage) for just under $60 my question is will the pins for the 1/8 fit in the maxx TI Turnbuckles & Pins

Hey bro,

I'm glad myself and others here could be of help dude. I totally understand where you coming from. No need to explain, I live to "hop-up" real cars and I love to work on my RC cars. My Maxx is in pieces now and will be so nice that I might not want to drive it when it's finished after X-mas. Yeah right, I'm breaking out the Video-cam when it's finished.


Those aren't the correct length (I believe) for the Maxx. I apologize for any confusion and I should have elaborated. I bought the Kit from Lundsford that's called 1/8th as they are a slightly larger diameter then stock T-maxx turnbuckles. I'm not going to bend these MOFO's..lol. The Kit is labeled for T-maxx. Mine came with the TB's and Pivot balls for $60 but Pivot balls aren't that important compared to Hinge Pins @ this point for you. I'm sure that Lundsford has a kit avaliable through Tower or your LHS that has TB's and hinge pins. Lundsford is a great company and I'm happy to support them.

Another note on TurnBuckles, some people here and aborad are running stock TB's and doing hard bashing with no problems or so they say. I know RC vets with 30 years of experience that will tell you, "Why do you need Ti TB's, unless you plan on running into a wall".

I bashed the hell out of my stock Maxx the first week that I got it and I bent the Turnbuckles within two weeks WITHOUT getting in any kind of accident like hitting a wall...lol. The Stock Turbuckles suck....period. Hell, when I did have an accident I went under the body kit of a Camaro on the road and I totaled everything on the front end and bent my chassis into a perfect v. Damn I wish I'd taken pics.

RobMob - Whazzzup, good to read ya bro. As you know, it's all give and take in this hobby. Your totally right on in your thinking when it comes to Allum. Shock towers man. The RPM's will bend but phuck man.....you gotta be doing some nasty ass rolling to bend them as I've rolled my T-maxx off road (radar verified) @ 38MPH (30 rolls+) where the car is slamming the RPM shock tower and no probs. The Plastic towers also have better shock absorption properties IMHO then any metal. The problem really is that most of the current Alluminum shock towers on the market are the 6061 allum. If your going to be running metal shock towers then they should be Aircraft grade alluminum or Titanium and nothing less.

Peace
 
30%, I know what you mean on the stock turnbuckles. I bent one of the front ones on the first day of running it. Pissed me off since it happened on the first tank after break-in.
 
Originally posted by robmob
30%, I know what you mean on the stock turnbuckles. I bent one of the front ones on the first day of running it. Pissed me off since it happened on the first tank after break-in.

DUUUDE,

That sucks bro.....The first tank after break in on the first day...someone was having fun.hehe. I'm about as patient and uneasily angered as they get (LOL) but I would have been phucking pissed. I honestly think most Traxxas cars are superior in their designs but most of the stock parts are weak as hell for the most part. This is why I said I wish I'd bought an already hop'd up T-maxx. The T-maxx desing itself is awesome (look how many have copy'd it) with a great turning Radius and especially in comparison with other great trucks like the Savage. You just have to spend some serious $$$$ to make it a true "basher".

Another note to Domination - Keep in mind that the shock tower is what is bolted to the chassis and supports the shocks. The shock posts are what come out of the shock tower and support the body and take the butt of the shock and impact.

Peace
 
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