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Gonna kill the Revo...

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Battlesmurf

Battlesmurf

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Hello!

I'm new to the forums, but not really all that new to RC cars. I sprung for a revo the other day-which started out wonderful. It's a tough cookie to crack, that's for sure. The problem I've run into, though-is that I'm having a hell of a time tuning the thing. It seems to overheat awfully quickly. So...I sprung for 3 different heads, gonna figure the best one when the time comes, a new flywheel (vented), and a motorsaver air filter. I figure this stuff should drop my temps (maybe too much) enough to keep me from killing the car. The question is-is anybody located around vacaville CA that wants to help me tune the thing? Looking for somebody knowledgable only, please. I've bothered my friends enough, and I will pay- be it in beer or $$, I just want the thing running right. My old TMaxx was so much easier (but that was years ago) to tune, but this in general is leagues better just plain old stock than that thing was. If anybody has any suggestions as to what I can do, I'd love to hear them.

Symp- bogging out, or not shifting into second, overheating and dying (even when really rich and all seems fine) trouble starting sometimes. All of this stuff is very inconsistant. The car is less than 2 weeks old, and was very very carefully broken in, and properly mainted after each run. Less than 1 gallon has been through it- great compression. I think it's boiling down to my tuning skills or lack thereof. Lemme know : ) :idea:
 
Dude WELCOME first!!!

Sounds to me you could have a few things. What is the temp when you run it? Have you tried changing the glow plug? I like to change the plug after a break in and then re tune for speed. Also, Did you have problems when breaking it in? How have you "tuned" it?

Weather can play a lot in tuning. When it is cold the air is thicker and the common mistake to do is to think..The temp outside is cold..let's lean her out!" when in fact the cold air is thicker which sometimes you need to re tune. I have had to richen the HSN some to get it to run right.

Things to check...

Top speed: is it good? does it bog out at max? If so you are too lean. turn it out a bit to richen it.

Acceleration: does it bog when you give it gas? if it does then you may be too rich.

Other things too look at. Air leaks. They suck. Have you sealed the backplate and carb neck with RTV silicone?This tip helps this type of problems most of the time.

Just because the heat is too much and causes high temps doesn't mean to change the head. The Revo head is improved compared to the stock tmaxx cast iron head.

Let us know!

Jon2
 
RC10GT lives in Vacaville and he is a top notch R/C guy. maybe he can hook up with you.

I am surprised you are having troubles. The new Traxxas 2.5R mill with the Powertune head is generally considered an easy mill to tune and although it runs hot, about 260-275, that is what it was spec'd for so if that is the temps you are getting then you are spot on. If you are higher than that richen both needles slightly until the temps drop to the above. If it then runs like crap, or won't come down in temp, then you might have an air leak in the carb or backplate.

I even popped a brand new Powertune head on my wife's T-Maxx before I ever broke in the motor and it also tuned right perfect and still holds a great tune.

BTW, Welcome! Keep posting. There are a lot of us with Revos, both stock and, heh, heh, heh, ... "modified"!
 
Hehe..

RC10 is david-we grew up with him. I've just been bothering the hell out of the poor guy lately. I figure it has to be the carb neck and back blate-we've tried just about EVERYTHING else. The temps jsut fluctuate ALOT-we keep trying to reset things to factory and work from there, but it's kicking our asses. It was easy as heel to tune in the beginning-but it's almost a new beast now.
 
Ooops, forgot, check the tank seal. The Revo tank has a habit of leaking air through the tank seal. They now sell a seperate seal replacement pack so you do not have to buy the whole tank rebuild kit. If it is the seal it will act a lot like the carb and backplate are leaking. Since you have a gallon through it that is most likely your problem plus the carb and backplate.
 
Yeah what RR said, I'd definitely check the tank o-ring, it was a major problem. Did it go through the break in ok or did you have problems from the start? IMO, sounds like an air leak problem.
 
I have not yet checked it with my temp gun, but i certainly will when i think of it. I have tuned it rich, and it runs really good without the body, which is how i tune it. Then we slap the body on and it starts bogging and not wanting to shift (tuned it rich because i thought the body was overheating it, because it runs fine without it). I will bring over my silicone and seal it up, if he wants...
 
it's just stock. We even cut some of the "trunk out" and drilled a bunch of holes, but that doesn't cut it
 
Yeah, it is the stock body. He cut out about a 3x3in square around the engine and cut out the rear window, then drilled some 1/8" (i think) holes in the windshield, front grille area, and the tailgate area.
 
I didn't run the stock body very long but I want to say it seemed to run a little hot with it. All I run now is the CP 2.0.
 
Well, i just wanted to update, since Battlesmurf hasnt. I am going to be installing new shocks (msr6) and black socks, motor saver filter, acncm cooling head, trinity high flow exhaust, dual disc brakes, and am going to seal up the carb neck and backplate. Either him or i will post pics when its done.
 
You guys never said, how was the fuel tank o-ring? Just curious, running without a body may keep the temps down enough to not kill it. When my o-ring went it took me a couple heats to figure out that was the problem and by then the motor was good and cooked.
 
One of us will have to swing by the LHS sometime and pick one up before we try to run again... Do you put grease or somethin on it, like green slime?
 
No, just be sure you get the new replacement o-rings that are pink condom colored. The blue ones do not last worth a hill of beans.
 
It's a new Traxxas replacement part. They come two to a package. DO NOT buy/pay for a whole tank rebuild kit. They are just good to have around, period. They may even work on a T-maxx tank. I dunno.
 

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