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Go New Gas ! and its runnin' ...sort of Can I get some help ?

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Mr.Pink

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Got New Gas ! and its runnin' ...sort of Can I get some help ?

So after 4 years it is still runnning . Just that if I don't keep on the throttle abit it will die .
I am running 20% and the cooling fin/head does not get hot enough to boil the water away in 2-3sec like it supposed to . What am I doing wrong ? Too lean maybe ? How do I adjust that ? I know of one brass screw thingy but what about this low speed screw I hear about , where is it ? I have the YOkomo RX engine .
When it dies the engine just runs slower and slower then off .
Thanks for the info .

PS: I also crashed into a wall and broke the lower control arm the first time I had it out in 4 years :nono: !! oh well had fun though.
 
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If it isn't getting hot enough, you need to lean it out. Normally, with a rich engine, it does what you say, gets slower and slower then dies. With an engine that is to lean, it has a tendency to rev higher than normal and run real hot.
 
How do I lean it out ? the brass thumb screw ? Also how far should the carb ( barrel ) be open at Idle ? mine is only open like 1mm and when I give it full throttle it only opens alittle more than 3/4 .
 
It's hard to say. I tried finding a pic of your engine, but the best one I found was on ebay, and I really can't see what I want to see.

Is this your engine: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...5592774&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW#ebayphotohosting

If so, there should be a straight blade screw in the side of the throttle barrol where the little black throttle lever is. This screw is your low speed. On most engine, the high end screw is on the thing that sticks up in the air where the fuel line connects to the engine.

As for the idle, a 2mm gap is normally pretty close. As for it only opening 3/4 the way, you may have an end point adjustment on your transmitter. Or your actual linkage is off a little bit not allowing full range of motion.

To lean the engine, screw in the high speed about 1/8 of a turn, then run it for a few minutes with normal driving and high speed passes. It should rev up to top speed pretty quick. If it sounds all blubbery, it's probably to rich still. If it hits high rpm really fast and there's no power, it's probably to lean.
 
Yes that looks like my engine . The low speed screw has an allen key head on it could that be it ?
My engine has little low end power and takes awhile to start screamin' and runs cool so I guess it is lean . What do I adjust the low speed screw too ?
 
Do you have a digicam to take a close up of the engine?

If it's running cool and takes quite a while to get going, it's more than likely rich.

Just try adjusting the high speed needle first, like I said, then tune the low speed if you need to. When you adjust the high speed, the low is affected.
 
ok here is a pic .
 

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Here are the basics to get you in the ball park, and think of the needles as water hose spigots. Turn them to the left and you get more water or fuel, right to slow it down. Rich is out, lean is in.

Put the nose of the truck against something firm so it can't get away from you. If you have an EZ start, keep it running while moving your LSN one way or the other till it starts to run.
Adjust your LSN and idle screw till it idles well and will run up to half throttle. (get it to running temp before you finalize any settings) When it idles properly, throttle it to half and see if it stalls or bogs down. If it stalls, it's too lean. If it bogs, it's too rich.
Now go to full throttle. This is when you adjust your HSN. Same thing. If it bogs, it's too rich, stalls, it's too lean.
When it seems to be running good, pinch the fuel line. It should speed up slightly and then stall within 3 - 4 seconds. If it stops quickly, your LSN is too lean. If it takes longer, the LSN is too rich.
Drive it for a while and then take a temp check to make sure it's at the proper temp. If it's too hot, richen the HSN.
You will have to make small adjustments on the HSN almost daily to compensate for outside temperature and humidity.

By the way, the factory settings are for break in, or a starting point if you really messed things up. Once an engine is broken in, don't expect it to run right by going to those settings.

Also, if you don't have a full opening while looking down the carb at full throttle, you need to adjust your linkage.
 
Here's a pic of what I found on yokomo's web site:
YokomoEngineandCarb.jpg


On your engine, the knurled thing is the high speed. The allen right by it looks to be an idle adjustment. As for the low speed, look at the place I put 2 arrows saying "Look here for low". If you have a low speed adj, it will be in either of those two places. It should be anyway.

Some engines don't have a low, only a high. If you don't see anything, then you may only be able to tune the high speed.

On this engine I found, they have a phillips holding on the throttle arm. Your engine has a nut. On my OS engine, there was a nut and in the center of what the nut screws onto, there's a straight bladed screw. That screw is my low speed adj.
 
i check I dont think I have a Low speed screw . The nut on the throtle arm has no screw in it , it is just a nut around threads . and the other side is impossible to reach because it is up against this white thing ( bulkhead ? behind engine ) Thanks for all the help I wil try to figure it out tomorow after I fix the front steering arm and shock knuckle .
 

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Sometime's the LSN is in a place that's hard to reach. If I wanted to adjust mine, I needed a long, thin blade screwdriver, held at an angle to get between the spur gear and the fuel tank. I reversed the carb 180 degrees and changed the linkage.
 
Yeah I dont think mine has one . I think my car will idle better when I adjust the idle screw . it is only open about 1mm max. I read that it should be about 2mm no less htan 1mm
 
Your statement is accurate. When the carb is closed, you should see a gap that is about the equivalent of the thickness of a credit card (1-2mm).
 
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