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glowplug ignitor..?

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Just completly remove it from the plug, or you can tie it back. Use a glow igniter, it will heat the plug much better than that wire that is going to get trashed anyway.
 
so what do I do, attach the ignitor put the ez start on and start it and remove both?
 
yep, just clip it to the plug, put your easy start in the plug and start her up. Then remove the igniter and starter. Thats it, the battery in the starter will last much longer, and your truck should start much easier too.
 
The EZ Start is to turn the motor over and the ignitor will heat the glo plug. The blue wire will not be in need with that set up. Gauranteed that blue wire will get thrashed soon after replacement.
 
But be careful about how long u keep the glow igniter on the glow plug because those things drain batterys really fast.
 
rctrey said:
But be careful about how long u keep the glow igniter on the glow plug because those things drain batterys really fast.
Click to expand...

This is why you keep a back up for it and a back up for that back up and a nother back up for that back up ECT ECT...

ignitors.jpg
 
Or you go and get one of these set-ups...
50DSC01683.webp


Very, very effective.
 
If you tune properly, you don't need to carry it around...but that is another story, entirely. For my own stalling issues when I ran pull start engines, I had a c-cell glo-ignitor, but found this set-up to be great for start of the day start ups and anything that involved starting the ride in the pit areas.
 
I was going to look for your pic Skymaxx but I had stepped away and forgot... I took his advice when I started out and damn I use it all the time for all my RC's!!!
 
I only bash... and when It flips I have to run to get it and alot of the time i dont make it before it cuts off...
 
Check around, you will find that I am all about bashing...in fact, I have never raced a single RC. BUT..to each his own. If they work for you, then go with it. As for the racing after a flipped ride to get it prior to it stalling out, consider a little extra length in the fuel line and you might find that it runs a little bit longer on its lid...then you won't have to run nearly as quickly.
 
I am gonna make my fuel line longer, I bought 5 ft. from vbgagon and I'm waiting its arrival.
 
I wouldn't go any longer than 11 inches on the fuel feed line. You may need to shorten the back pressure line an inch or so to insure proper fuel flow pressure, but you will be able to stay running a little longer with the ride on the lid.

Aside from that, working on bashing and keeping the rubber side down helps...but isn't really as much fun as watching a wild cartwheel or a landing gone awry. :D
 
:D Believe me I know...check out some of the shots in my gallery and you will see that I am all about bashing and that many times landings in my world involve cartwheels and rubber side up...
 
The stock tank set-up is prone to damaging the tank on hard landings. A lot of times, the posts get shoved up into the tank. The mod, creates a bushing of sorts to protect against this problem. It is my solution to the problem and worked well for most landings. The only landing it did not survive was a 15 ft drop on the lid.

I recently posted the how-to in another thread...CLICK HERE
 

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