Glitching Prevention

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All of us at some point have experienced glitching in some form or another. Although it's not entirely preventable, much of it can be avoided with a little care. Here's some tips to reduce the amount of RF noise your equipment will generate.

Wiring:
Most people overlook wiring and string it everywhere, or coil it up. When wire is coiled and has voltage put through it, it takes on special properties because it's become an inductor. Inductors are the crudest forms of materials used to create RF energy. Instead of coiling up your excess wire, create folds that do not coil.

Battery wires are commonly overlooked. When creating your battery packs or putting on your deans connectors, twist the wires together first and put some flexible shrink tubing over them to hold them in place. You'll create what's called a twisted pair, it helps reduce the magnetic field created from voltage going through the wires.

Also, minimize the contact of wires on cf, graphite and aluminum. The more distance between the wires and cf/graphite/aluminum/metal the better off you are.

Capacitors:
The primary purpose of capacitors are to bleed off the electrical surges from a rotating armature. Rotating armatures create AM RF energy. Good quality caps as recommended by your the motor manufacturer installed correctly will greatly reduce the amount of RF noise created by your motor.

Speed Controllers:
ESC's by nature will always create RF energy. There's no way to get around this. There are some things you can do to minimize this effect. Using aluminum foil, create a pocket around your ESC to make an RF shield. Be careful doing this, you need to ensure constant airflow in and around the ESC for cooling. You also don't want the foil to come into contact with any of the electrical connections. You can glue the foil to pieces of scrap lexan so it'll retain it's shape longer and protect it against roll-overs, crashes, etc. Make sure that part of this foil is held in place tight to the chassis. Best case scenario, depending on your car's layout when possible, is to tie in the foil so that it's held in place by your motor mount. This grounds the foil. If it's not possible to do this, just make sure the foil is held in place firmly.

Metal to Metal Contact:
Do your absolute best to reduce the amount of vibration from metal to metal contacts. Tighten up all the screws to prevent any static from jumping from metal to metal and creating RF noise. It sounds goofy, but it's a common occurence.

Carbon Fiber:
Carbon fiber can cause some RF energy to be routed in and around your receiver. When possible, minimize contact between the receiver and cf as well as cf and your esc. If necessary, use two pieces of servo tape atop one another to add a bit of distance.

Antenna:
Antennas are a specific length to provide optimum transmission and reception. Make sure your antenna wire is in tact, has no nicks, cuts, abrasions, etc. If it does, the cheapest fix is to use heat shrink tubing. The best solution is to replace the wire. When routing the wire, route it as far as possible from your ESC, motor, wiring, and cf. Also, minimize the distance from the antenna straw and your receiver. The closer the two are, the better reception you'll get and the least amount of glitching you'll get.

Receiver:
Your receiver is your key component here. More often than not, receivers being too close to RF noise generating components are the culprit for glitching. Keep your receiver as far from your esc, motor, servos, cf, etc. You've done a decent job of it so far, so find that sweet spot. You can also take some aluminum foil again and wrap the sides and bottom of your receiver to help shield it. A few dabs of Shoe Goo will hold it in place. Make sure that all corners are completely covered.

Servos:
Servos are audibly noisy and rf noisy. Reduce this by wrapping your servo in aluminum foil and/or keeping your receiver and antenna away from it. Always keep your servo in good working order. If you're still getting glitching, connect a different servo to your car and see if it's still glitching. Although unlikely, it's still a possibility well worth exploring.

Even after all this and you're still experiencing glitching, look at replacing your receiver. With use and time, electrical components wear and begin to fail. Some of this is design flaw, some is from using cheap parts.

If you intend to replace your radio and receiver, there's a number of manufacturers out there. If you wanted to stay in the 27 MHz AM band, take a look around and make an informed decision. See which radio is having the best success. You might want to change to FM, but that's not a guaranteed fix to glitching. Once again, do the research and make an informed decision. There's plenty of great information on the board.
 
just an add to the suggestions on metal to metal contact.....get some of the real big fuel tubing, like boats and 1/4 scale cars/trucks use......run your header spring through the tubeing before mounting your header to the case......this insulates the spring metal from the case metal.....
 
Another one that I wanted to add but forgot:

For those that run nitro, your engine vibrations are your worst enemy. To lessen the effect, provide a cushion when mounting you engine. Most engines mount to an aluminum mount that then screws into the chassis. Using some spare lexan, create a shim to go between the engine and engine mount. This lexan shim will actually provide a small bit of cushion between the engine and the mount, thus reducing the overall effect of the vibration. The screws will still hold it solidly in place and the change in mounting height is minimal enough to be negligeable to your center of gravity.

This is probably the best form of vibration isolation you can do to a nitro vehicle and costs nothing.

Plaidfish, great tip. It's something I wouldn't have considered before because I've never used engines that have that sort of exhaust mounting. If I do get one, I now have another tip to add to my arsenal.
 
don't use lexan in between th emount and case...use thin wood sheets...like a veneer....it helps keep temps more stable....that's a ron paris trick I read.....has to do w/ the mount acting as a heat sink and letting the oil in the case cool too much because your engine (at least the high end ones) DO NOT NEED extra heat sinks...they are designed to run right out of the box...when you cool the lubricant too fast it doesn't get spread through tthe case and crank as quickly as it should...causing premature failure......
 
Excellent tips guys, right in time for my next rebuild.
 
If you have linkage contact metal to metal such as the brake linkage on a buggy or the brake on an RC10 GT, use shrink tubing on the linkage where it touches and 1/4 inch on either side. Be careful to cut it long enough so nothing catches on the edge during its full length of travel.
 
this isn't really abuot radio glitching but I found out last weekend, when you put CVDs on 1/18th scale cars to shrink wrap the bone end and endcup w/ shrink wrap to keep the set screws from loosening up....I wanted to see if I can do it on my TC3 cause I've lost a few of those little bastards.....
 
Plaidfish said:
when you put CVDs on 1/18th scale cars to shrink wrap the bone end and endcup w/ shrink wrap to keep the set screws from loosening up
Again not to hijack.

I used shrink tube on my T-Max CVDs to keep geese in the CVDs. Glob a bunch in there and put shrink over the entire end. Cut it back just enough that it doesn't touch the inside bearing on the wheel hub.

Ill start a shrink tube thread.
 
FastEddy said:
Again not to hijack.

I used shrink tube on my T-Max CVDs to keep geese in the CVDs.

POOR GEESE!!! you my friend are one sick puppy!!

lol sorry :OT:
 
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