Gears, Mesh.. and a hammer

[levesque87]

after countless trips to many hobby shops to get the parts i need, i finally got it all together and using a stock spur gear and a 14t clutch bell gear, it winds up like its about to take flight and then takes off like a rocket, some really tinging noises, so i stopped looked at it, ajusted the mesh and went back down the road, came back same noise. so i took the stock 16t clutch bell and put it back on, and ripped it back down the road, take off is sluggish to the 14t bell. so why does it ting so bad, the 14t bell looks to mush over already, and the mesh is pretty close.. i am kinda confused .

 

[olds97_lss]

Could be that your brake disks are rubbing on the flywheel or the clutch bell with the smaller bell. What size spur are you running? You could maybe up the size of your spur a tooth or two, which will also add more low end. Then maybe you can run the 16T bell.

This chart tells you what should fit within the slide adjustment:

 

[levesque87]

its the stock one on the savage xl, i think 52. ill look at the hobby shop tomorrow for a 49 or 50 tooth spur gear.

 

[olds97_lss]

a smaller spur will kill your low end just like a larger bell does. If your running a 52T spur, then I'd suggest splitting the difference and getting a 15T bell.

That is if in fact your brake disks are rubbing on the bell or flywheel. Check for that first, you may have another issue, but that's what comes to mind as I had that problem once when running the steel brake disks. When I ran a single composite, I didn't have that issue.

 

[cwal1774]

The brake discs on my Savage X do rub against the clutchbell how do i correct this can I put some small washers under the engine mount to raise it a little?

 

[olds97_lss]

That's an option as it will do two things, raise the engine and force you to move it to the right some to get proper gear mesh, both of which move it away from the brakes.

Keep in mind though that doing that won't allow for much heat transfer. Part of the reason the chassis of nitro rigs are alloy is they act as a heat sink. Which is also why the flange of the engines make as much contact as possible with the engine mount. However, guys have done that on their LST's due to the engine mounts being too short for some pull-starters. If you can though, I'd suggest you get some aluminum stock and make a couple risers out of that instead of just washers. That's what I did quite some time back to get clearance for something. Then I still got the full contact of the flange on the engine to the engine mount. Relatively cheap and easy to do.

Your only other options are change your brakes to a single disk composite, but that won't guarantee no rubbing or change your gear ratio (as you've already done and didn't like).

Out of those three, the spacers are the easiest and most direct solution. You won't need much, since it will be moved up and over as I suggested. 1 thin washer under each bolt will probably get it done.

 

[levesque87]

today i put my savage xl all back together from the nightmare of clutchs. so i took it down a dirt road, and then came back. never seen it run this good before. i went to turn the truck around and go back down and it would rev and go and 3/4 throttle it would bog down, skip and all but stall, so i went to get it and looked at, the integy clutch i baught, for like 10-15 bucks was melted, metal chips where blowing every where. so i took the frount clutch bell off and all that was left was the springs, and a very small peice of the shoes. guess I will have to spend the 40 bucks on the hpi ones lol ..why would it rev up like that, and go and then bog down ?

 

[olds97_lss]

Probably slipping really bad as the shoes melted, then binding up as they broke apart.