FTX banzai drift upgrades

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orca

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Greetings to you all! New in hobby.
Looking to upgrade my 1/10 drift car to compete my 1000 cc bike. Maybe.
Seriously, I own a 1/10 FTX banzai drift car and a WLToys 124019. Money to spend but want to make it worth. Want to upgrade from brushed to brushless with trusted electronics, capable more than 120 km/h, make the banzai a long time reliable speed run car. Can it be done? Have watched so many videos, seen so many motors, esc's, funs, servos, transmitters receivers, but don't know which one I need. So any advice is welcome.
 

Greywolf74

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Its going to be hard turning your FTX kit into a speed run kit as you're not going to have much in the way of after market support to make it fast or to strengthen it from breaking into a million parts from a high speed crash. That being said 75MPH isnt a terribly high goal to reach with an RC kit so you may be able to make it go that fast.

As for electronics its hard to suggest the exact motor/esc combo because I'm not familiar with that kit and what motor mount upgrades or spur gear options you have but I would definitely go with something from Castle Creations. The ultimate goal for speed runs would be to put a Mamba Monster X and a 2200kv motor in it but that would require some sort of after market motor mount or modding the existing one to work if thats possible. For 120KPH though you can probably hit that using 1/10 scale electronics but again I dont know which one to recommend because I dont know your kit. probably a Castle Creations system with 3800kv motor and Mamba X ESC combo. Would be a decent place to start I would think.
 

orca

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Its going to be hard turning your FTX kit into a speed run kit as you're not going to have much in the way of after market support to make it fast or to strengthen it from breaking into a million parts from a high speed crash. That being said 75MPH isnt a terribly high goal to reach with an RC kit so you may be able to make it go that fast.

As for electronics its hard to suggest the exact motor/esc combo because I'm not familiar with that kit and what motor mount upgrades or spur gear options you have but I would definitely go with something from Castle Creations. The ultimate goal for speed runs would be to put a Mamba Monster X and a 2200kv motor in it but that would require some sort of after market motor mount or modding the existing one to work if thats possible. For 120KPH though you can probably hit that using 1/10 scale electronics but again I dont know which one to recommend because I dont know your kit. probably a Castle Creations system with 3800kv motor and Mamba X ESC combo. Would be a decent place to start I would think.
Thank you for your answer. How can I inform you about my kit? I will go for the 2200kV, I think its faster/stronger than the 3800kV, correct me if I m wrong. I will buy an after market motor mount. As I go for a money value upgrade, its worth to give a little more money to get the 2200kV.
What do you think?
 

orca

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Its going to be hard turning your FTX kit into a speed run kit as you're not going to have much in the way of after market support to make it fast or to strengthen it from breaking into a million parts from a high speed crash. That being said 75MPH isnt a terribly high goal to reach with an RC kit so you may be able to make it go that fast.

As for electronics its hard to suggest the exact motor/esc combo because I'm not familiar with that kit and what motor mount upgrades or spur gear options you have but I would definitely go with something from Castle Creations. The ultimate goal for speed runs would be to put a Mamba Monster X and a 2200kv motor in it but that would require some sort of after market motor mount or modding the existing one to work if thats possible. For 120KPH though you can probably hit that using 1/10 scale electronics but again I dont know which one to recommend because I dont know your kit. probably a Castle Creations system with 3800kv motor and Mamba X ESC combo. Would be a decent place to start I would think.
As I noted on Castle website there are categories according to motors and esc s, buggies, touring. I think my banzai is more close to touring. The 2200kV you suggested me is for monster trucks with up to 6S LiPo packs (4S LiPo is the sweet spot), and works great in 1:8 scale buggies, truggies and on-road vehicles as well as 1:10 scale monster trucks weighing up to 15 lbs. So it mentions 1/10 monster trucks. Are you sure it will fit for banzai?
 

Greywolf74

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As I noted on Castle website there are categories according to motors and esc s, buggies, touring. I think my banzai is more close to touring. The 2200kV you suggested me is for monster trucks with up to 6S LiPo packs (4S LiPo is the sweet spot), and works great in 1:8 scale buggies, truggies and on-road vehicles as well as 1:10 scale monster trucks weighing up to 15 lbs. So it mentions 1/10 monster trucks. Are you sure it will fit for banzai?
The 2200KV motor from Castle is for 1/8 scale kits of any kind. As I said before You will have to either buy some sort of conversion kit or mod the existing motor mount in order for it to fit. For example on my 100+MPH Rustler I had to buy an after market mount and then still mod it in order to fit the Castle 2200kv motor in it. If your only goal is to hit 120KPH then this motor is overkill which is why I suggested something for 1/10 scale kits.
 

orca

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I understand. I m learning, its easier if I get advise. I agree its overkill but its tempting, If I don't try I will never know. Is your rustler 1/10? If I manage to mode the 2200 do you think the power will be usable? From your experience will it get 100 mph?
 

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I understand. I m learning, its easier if I get advise. I agree its overkill but its tempting, If I don't try I will never know. Is your rustler 1/10? If I manage to mode the 2200 do you think the power will be usable? From your experience will it get 100 mph?
My Rustler is 1/10 scale but Its running 1/8 scale electronics, 1/8 scale on-road wheels and tires, and the stance been widened in the front to help with stability. I also have to run about 1 poiund of weight in the front of the kit to keep the nose down and I've had to vent my body heavily to prevent it from acting like a parasail and lifting the kit off the ground at high speeds. In my experience it takes a lot of money and trial and error to make a kit do 100+mph.

If you managed to get the 1/8 scale motor, ESC, and 6S LiPo pack to fit in your kit then yes with the proper gearing it could possibly use the power for speed runs. As a basher, no youd never utilize all the power from the electronics and if you did try to bash it youd likely break something very quickly. The real question is "Are there enough after market parts out there for your kit to make it all happen." My hunch is no there isnt so Id probably stick to some 1/10 scale electronics and try to hit 75MPH like you originally wanted to or look at a different kit for 100+mph runs. One of the guys in the forums here is using an ARRMA Limitless to do speed runs because it was built for high speed and, I believe, it will accommodate 1/8 scale electronics with no modification.
 

Greywolf74

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If you look at the pic that shows the motor mount on my Rusty you can see that not only did I have to buy an after market mount but I also had to dremel the hell out of it to make it fit.



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orca

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If you look at the pic that shows the motor mount on my Rusty you can see that not only did I have to buy an after market mount but I also had to dremel the hell out of it to make it fit.



View attachment 126809


View attachment 126811 View attachment 126812
View attachment 126813
View attachment 126814
My Rustler is 1/10 scale but Its running 1/8 scale electronics, 1/8 scale on-road wheels and tires, and the stance been widened in the front to help with stability. I also have to run about 1 poiund of weight in the front of the kit to keep the nose down and I've had to vent my body heavily to prevent it from acting like a parasail and lifting the kit off the ground at high speeds. In my experience it takes a lot of money and trial and error to make a kit do 100+mph.

If you managed to get the 1/8 scale motor, ESC, and 6S LiPo pack to fit in your kit then yes with the proper gearing it could possibly use the power for speed runs. As a basher, no youd never utilize all the power from the electronics and if you did try to bash it youd likely break something very quickly. The real question is "Are there enough after market parts out there for your kit to make it all happen." My hunch is no there isnt so Id probably stick to some 1/10 scale electronics and try to hit 75MPH like you originally wanted to or look at a different kit for 100+mph runs. One of the guys in the forums here is using an ARRMA Limitless to do speed runs because it was built for high speed and, I believe, it will accommodate 1/8 scale electronics with no modification.
My Rustler is 1/10 scale but Its running 1/8 scale electronics, 1/8 scale on-road wheels and tires, and the stance been widened in the front to help with stability. I also have to run about 1 poiund of weight in the front of the kit to keep the nose down and I've had to vent my body heavily to prevent it from acting like a parasail and lifting the kit off the ground at high speeds. In my experience it takes a lot of money and trial and error to make a kit do 100+mph.

If you managed to get the 1/8 scale motor, ESC, and 6S LiPo pack to fit in your kit then yes with the proper gearing it could possibly use the power for speed runs. As a basher, no youd never utilize all the power from the electronics and if you did try to bash it youd likely break something very quickly. The real question is "Are there enough after market parts out there for your kit to make it all happen." My hunch is no there isnt so Id probably stick to some 1/10 scale electronics and try to hit 75MPH like you originally wanted to or look at a different kit for 100+mph runs. One of the guys in the forums here is using an ARRMA Limitless to do speed runs because it was built for high speed and, I believe, it will accommodate 1/8 scale electronics with no modification.

If you look at the pic that shows the motor mount on my Rusty you can see that not only did I have to buy an after market mount but I also had to dremel the hell out of it to make it fit.



View attachment 126809


View attachment 126811 View attachment 126812
View attachment 126813
View attachment 126814

My Rustler is 1/10 scale but Its running 1/8 scale electronics, 1/8 scale on-road wheels and tires, and the stance been widened in the front to help with stability. I also have to run about 1 poiund of weight in the front of the kit to keep the nose down and I've had to vent my body heavily to prevent it from acting like a parasail and lifting the kit off the ground at high speeds. In my experience it takes a lot of money and trial and error to make a kit do 100+mph.

If you managed to get the 1/8 scale motor, ESC, and 6S LiPo pack to fit in your kit then yes with the proper gearing it could possibly use the power for speed runs. As a basher, no youd never utilize all the power from the electronics and if you did try to bash it youd likely break something very quickly. The real question is "Are there enough after market parts out there for your kit to make it all happen." My hunch is no there isnt so Id probably stick to some 1/10 scale electronics and try to hit 75MPH like you originally wanted to or look at a different kit for 100+mph runs. One of the guys in the forums here is using an ARRMA Limitless to do speed runs because it was built for high speed and, I believe, it will accommodate 1/8 scale electronics with no modificat ion.
Your work looks amazing!

I get it, its not only about power and speed, its about balance, weight, enough room, mods. I
will follow your advise and go for 3800kv motor and Mamba X ESC.
 

TurboChargedHonda

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Your work looks amazing!

I get it, its not only about power and speed, its about balance, weight, enough room, mods. I
will follow your advise and go for 3800kv motor and Mamba X ESC.
You do not have to get the Mamba X ESC in order to get the sensored option. Castle just came out with the Copperhead ESC, so that works as well. Going with a sensorless SW4 will be an even cheaper option and does not affect speed.
 

Greywolf74

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You do not have to get the Mamba X ESC in order to get the sensored option. Castle just came out with the Copperhead ESC, so that works as well. Going with a sensorless SW4 will be an even cheaper option and does not affect speed.
I recommended the Mamba X because it can handle a higher amperage load not because of sensored vs sensorless. If he starts gearing for speed runs hes going to pull higher than normal amperage.
 

orca

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Greywolf74

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So the only difference in those 2 links is the motor drive shaft size. The top link has a 5mm drive shaft and the bottom link has a 3mm drive shaft. It technically doesn't matter which one you use as long as your pinion gears have a matching diameter bore. Your kit by default I'm assuming probably uses 48P gears and 48P gears most commonly have 3mm bores. You can get 48P pinions that have 5mm bores though youd just have to buy them separately. When I did mine I chose the 5mm drive shaft because I knew I was going to switch mine to Mod1 gearing instead of 48P and Mod1 gearing most commonly uses 5mm bore. You probably wont be able to find Mod1 spur gears for your kit I'm assuming so you may want to consider the 3mm drive shaft. Either way is fine just realize that none of your current pinions will are likely to fit the 5mm shaft, youll have to buy new ones if you choose to go that route.

Also if you're going to do this Id invest in a temp gun of some sort to check temps on your motor. Doing speed runs will cause your motor to get hot and after a number of passes you may have to let the motor cool down for a bit before doing more speed runs. How long it will take it to get hot depends on what kind of gearing you're running.
 
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orca

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So the only difference in those 2 links is the motor drive shaft size. The top link has a 5mm drive shaft and the bottom link has a 3mm drive shaft. It technically doesn't matter which one you use as long as your pinion gears have a matching diameter bore. Your kit by default I'm assuming probably uses 48P gears and 48P gears most commonly have 3mm bores. You can get 48P pinions that have 5mm bores though youd just have to buy them separately. When I did mine I chose the 5mm drive shaft because I knew I was going to switch mine to Mod1 gearing instead of 48P and Mod1 gearing most commonly uses 5mm bore. You probably wont be able to find Mod1 spur gears for your kit I'm assuming so you may want to consider the 3mm drive shaft. Either way is fine just realize that none of your current pinions will are likely to fit the 5mm shaft, youll have to buy new ones if you choose to go that route.

Also if you're going to do this Id invest in a heat gun of some sort to check temps on your motor. Doing speed runs will cause your motor to get hot and after a number of passes you may have to let the motor cool down for a bit before doing more speed runs. How long it will take it to get hot depends on what kind of gearing you're running.
I didn't get the first part of your answer about 3mm or 5mm drive shaft, 48P and Mod1, sorry but I have no knowledge, learning from scratch. I attach some photos to help you understand my kit and dimensions of everything hopefully. If I skipped something let me know.
Could you give me a link to buy a heat gun?
For the mod you suggested me (mamba x & 3800kV) I suppose I will need a new servo? I attach three links,

https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-...e=CN&p=4X282320346465201803&custlinkid=709062
https://www.banggood.com/DSSERVO-DS...ht-recommendation&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6266225
https://www.banggood.com/DSSERVO-DS...ht-recommendation&cur_warehouse=UK&ID=6301958

please let me know which one is best or suggest me to buy one of your choice. Also I suppose I will need a receiver/transmitter, a controller, could you give me suggestions/your choices?
Thank you
 

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orca

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So the only difference in those 2 links is the motor drive shaft size. The top link has a 5mm drive shaft and the bottom link has a 3mm drive shaft. It technically doesn't matter which one you use as long as your pinion gears have a matching diameter bore. Your kit by default I'm assuming probably uses 48P gears and 48P gears most commonly have 3mm bores. You can get 48P pinions that have 5mm bores though youd just have to buy them separately. When I did mine I chose the 5mm drive shaft because I knew I was going to switch mine to Mod1 gearing instead of 48P and Mod1 gearing most commonly uses 5mm bore. You probably wont be able to find Mod1 spur gears for your kit I'm assuming so you may want to consider the 3mm drive shaft. Either way is fine just realize that none of your current pinions will are likely to fit the 5mm shaft, youll have to buy new ones if you choose to go that route.

Also if you're going to do this Id invest in a heat gun of some sort to check temps on your motor. Doing speed runs will cause your motor to get hot and after a number of passes you may have to let the motor cool down for a bit before doing more speed runs. How long it will take it to get hot depends on what kind of gearing you're running.
 

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orca

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So the only difference in those 2 links is the motor drive shaft size. The top link has a 5mm drive shaft and the bottom link has a 3mm drive shaft. It technically doesn't matter which one you use as long as your pinion gears have a matching diameter bore. Your kit by default I'm assuming probably uses 48P gears and 48P gears most commonly have 3mm bores. You can get 48P pinions that have 5mm bores though youd just have to buy them separately. When I did mine I chose the 5mm drive shaft because I knew I was going to switch mine to Mod1 gearing instead of 48P and Mod1 gearing most commonly uses 5mm bore. You probably wont be able to find Mod1 spur gears for your kit I'm assuming so you may want to consider the 3mm drive shaft. Either way is fine just realize that none of your current pinions will are likely to fit the 5mm shaft, youll have to buy new ones if you choose to go that route.

Also if you're going to do this Id invest in a heat gun of some sort to check temps on your motor. Doing speed runs will cause your motor to get hot and after a number of passes you may have to let the motor cool down for a bit before doing more speed runs. How long it will take it to get hot depends on what kind of gearing you're running.
 

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orca

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So the only difference in those 2 links is the motor drive shaft size. The top link has a 5mm drive shaft and the bottom link has a 3mm drive shaft. It technically doesn't matter which one you use as long as your pinion gears have a matching diameter bore. Your kit by default I'm assuming probably uses 48P gears and 48P gears most commonly have 3mm bores. You can get 48P pinions that have 5mm bores though youd just have to buy them separately. When I did mine I chose the 5mm drive shaft because I knew I was going to switch mine to Mod1 gearing instead of 48P and Mod1 gearing most commonly uses 5mm bore. You probably wont be able to find Mod1 spur gears for your kit I'm assuming so you may want to consider the 3mm drive shaft. Either way is fine just realize that none of your current pinions will are likely to fit the 5mm shaft, youll have to buy new ones if you choose to go that route.

Also if you're going to do this Id invest in a heat gun of some sort to check temps on your motor. Doing speed runs will cause your motor to get hot and after a number of passes you may have to let the motor cool down for a bit before doing more speed runs. How long it will take it to get hot depends on what kind of gearing you're running.
 

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Greywolf74

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So 48P and Mod1 are 2 different types of "pitch" measurements for gears. Which just means the pitch tells you how many teeth a gear has along 1 inch of its circumference. So a 48P gear has 48 teeth per inch. Mod1 is a metric measurement and while its not directly convertable to teeth per inch/CM if you had a chart you could look up and see that Mod1 is about 25Teeth per inch roughly if my memory serves me correctly. You car appears to use 48P. However, I can't tell you that for sure. Since you are using the CM side of the ruler I'm going to assume you're not from the US so its possible the kit uses Mod .6 gears since that is a proper metric measurement system. 48P and Mod .6 are very close in size but are not the same and therefore are not compatible. You'll have to do some googling to find out which it uses. either way though the appropriate size motor shaft for 48P and Mod .6 is a 3mm shaft.

So that was to clear up the confusion on gears (hopefully lol) but heres where I have to say "Just dont waste your money." First off that RC is running a "brushed" motor and ESC and uses "NiMH"/"NiCD" packs which is a lot less powerful than "brushless" and "Lipo" batteries. That means that it wasn't designed to handle the power of a brushless system. Putting one in it may result in tearing up other pieces on the car, especially the driveline. Given the unknown brand (or at least its unknown to me) and the age of the kit (it looks to be pretty old) I would say trying to put a brushless system in this kit even if you dont try and do speed runs will just break it and then you'll probably find yourself eventually in a situation where you can't find replacement parts for it. Dropping a big beefy Castle Motor/ESC combo in this kit is a lot like trying to polish a turd. I dont mean to be disrespectful or rude but its true. At least from my perspective. My best advice would be to either just fix this one up and use it as it was meant to be used or instead of spending that money on the Castle system first invest in a newer RC that has the capability and after market part support to support what you want to do with the kit. That being said its your money do with it as you please :)

As for servos the first 2 you linked are for 5th scale. You want one thats 25kg. Id recommend a servo from Savox like THIS one but if you go with banggood you want the 25KG servo.

As for a temp gun any generic one from banggood will suffice. You could use something like THIS1 or THIS2. Either of those should work fine
 

orca

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So 48P and Mod1 are 2 different types of "pitch" measurements for gears. Which just means the pitch tells you how many teeth a gear has along 1 inch of its circumference. So a 48P gear has 48 teeth per inch. Mod1 is a metric measurement and while its not directly convertable to teeth per inch/CM if you had a chart you could look up and see that Mod1 is about 25Teeth per inch roughly if my memory serves me correctly. You car appears to use 48P. However, I can't tell you that for sure. Since you are using the CM side of the ruler I'm going to assume you're not from the US so its possible the kit uses Mod .6 gears since that is a proper metric measurement system. 48P and Mod .6 are very close in size but are not the same and therefore are not compatible. You'll have to do some googling to find out which it uses. either way though the appropriate size motor shaft for 48P and Mod .6 is a 3mm shaft.

So that was to clear up the confusion on gears (hopefully lol) but heres where I have to say "Just dont waste your money." First off that RC is running a "brushed" motor and ESC and uses "NiMH"/"NiCD" packs which is a lot less powerful than "brushless" and "Lipo" batteries. That means that it wasn't designed to handle the power of a brushless system. Putting one in it may result in tearing up other pieces on the car, especially the driveline. Given the unknown brand (or at least its unknown to me) and the age of the kit (it looks to be pretty old) I would say trying to put a brushless system in this kit even if you dont try and do speed runs will just break it and then you'll probably find yourself eventually in a situation where you can't find replacement parts for it. Dropping a big beefy Castle Motor/ESC combo in this kit is a lot like trying to polish a turd. I dont mean to be disrespectful or rude but its true. At least from my perspective. My best advice would be to either just fix this one up and use it as it was meant to be used or instead of spending that money on the Castle system first invest in a newer RC that has the capability and after market part support to support what you want to do with the kit. That being said its your money do with it as you please :)

As for servos the first 2 you linked are for 5th scale. You want one thats 25kg. Id recommend a servo from Savox like THIS one but if you go with banggood you want the 25KG servo.

As for a temp gun any generic one from banggood will suffice. You could use something like THIS1 or THIS2. Either of those should work fine
I' m from Greece. The brand is FTX, very reliable, (I though it would be popular to U.S. because its British, lol), mine is very new, bought it on end of December 2020, its just very dirty haha! I always clean it, it just happened. I ve seen so many people upgrading brushed rc cars to powerful brushless on youtube (the Chinese brushed WLtoys 124019 has seen 160 km/h with stock gearing), that I though the 3800 you suggested wouldn't be brutal for the construction. Anyway, that's disappointing, I even bought a very cool body shell, rims with road tyres (have use them), rimes with foam tyres (expect to receive them). I guess I have to wait to buy Arrma limitless (I was intend to anyway), but I know if I will find enough space to make a good use.
 

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