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Raiden101

Raiden101

RCTalk Talkaholic
Messages
458
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101
Location
South Florida
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I was having issues tuning my truck, chasing a tune I later learned. I sealed the engine to no avail. I finally broke down and took it to the LHS and had them look at it. They told the engine was basically shot, the bearings were rattling and the piston was spinning to freely in the sleeve. I was looking at about $150 to have them fix it, or just trade it to them for $125. I'm thinking a fresh start is a good idea, now that I know more about what I'm doing.

What do you guys think?
 
Trade it to them for $125? As in, they give you $125 towards a new engine? Take it. Get a new engine and start over. What engine? Maybe we can suggest some better bang for your buck.
 
you should just to the traxxas upgrade and swap it for a 3.3. or buy the dynamite .19t its a direct replacement and they say that they run great. you can find them for 100.
 
The 125 is for a new traxxas 3.3 engine. They are an authorized traxxas dealer, so it's the the same thing as sending it to traxxas
 
you want to know what i think...or do you want to know what I'm thinking right now?

Any way what you had was a life lesson.Before you ever start a nitro you take it apart and seal it.let it sit for 24 hours don't even think about starting it!

Now contact traxxas and trade that lump in on a new 3.3..or you could buy a real mill for 300$ to 400$ and have some bragging rights over your friends:first_place:

Or just don't listen to me at all...I won't hold it against you:)
 
alien13 said:
If you're not racing, $300-$400 is a waste of money for a basher.
Click to expand...

Well crap You tell'en me for the last 15 years i have been wasting my money on RB'S EB Mods Ect ect..Wish you would have told me this sooner
Now i feel like an idiot..As will 3/4 of the other members of this site

Oh ya You get what you pay for..
 
You could also just e-bay a new 3.3 for less than 125 and have a spare crank, head, block, and carb. Yes your crank is still good, keep it.
 
ZANDOR said:
Well crap You tell'en me for the last 15 years i have been wasting my money on RB'S EB Mods Ect ect..Wish you would have told me this sooner
Now i feel like an idiot..As will 3/4 of the other members of this site

Oh ya You get what you pay for..
Click to expand...

Why spend $300+ on a racing engine if you're just playing in the park?
 
alien13 said:
Why spend $300+ on a racing engine if you're just playing in the park?
Click to expand...

Well good question..
First like i said you get what you pay for!

When i started out in this hobby many moons ago..I struggled with Mills not wanting to run over heating ya no crap like that..
Then one day I found out first hand the difference between a 100$ mill and a 300$ mill smoother power band Easier to tune More run time less down time..You get more gallons of run time (fact)
I would go through 3 cheap mills to one good high dollar mill. Cost Wise it just makes sense
Not only that When i build a rc its all or nothing.Thats just me.
I built a mugan mbx pospec to the hilt just to bash it ask any one here..or look in my photo gallery.

Once again you get what you pay for!!!!!

Did that answer your question..if not i will slow it down and play it back wards for you.
 
ZANDOR said:
Well good question..
First like i said you get what you pay for!

When i started out in this hobby many moons ago..I struggled with Mills not wanting to run over heating ya no crap like that..
Then one day I found out first hand the difference between a 100$ mill and a 300$ mill smoother power band Easier to tune More run time less down time..You get more gallons of run time (fact)
I would go through 3 cheap mills to one good high dollar mill. Cost Wise it just makes sense
Not only that When i build a rc its all or nothing.Thats just me.
I built a mugan mbx pospec to the hilt just to bash it ask any one here..or look in my photo gallery.

Once again you get what you pay for!!!!!

Did that answer your question..if not i will slow it down and play it back wards for you.
Click to expand...

Really? Because I've talked to alot of people getting 8-10 gallons out of RTR engines. A sealed, well maintained engine of any type will last a long time, regardless of how much you pay for it.

I'm not going to sit here and argue with you about it, because for everything I have to say, you'll have some comeback that you think is better. But I will end with this.

Anything will last a long time if you treat it right, and take care of it.
 
alien13 said:
I'm not going to sit here and argue with you about it,.
Click to expand...



argue What? i stated my opinion about my preferences and you didn't seem to like my views..and thats ok..But you asked me a direct question and I responded back..Thats how communication happens.I know its strange but thats how it works!
no arguing here..
but if you feel the need to vent to me about some thing you deem a argument just pm me and we can talk about it,.
 
you rock ZANDOR.



I agree with purchasing a higher end mill once you ruin a few cheapys learning how to tune.

I always bought in the middle because thats what my budget allowed. I ran several OS engines which aren't as expensive as rossi and the like but it was certainly a huge improvement over your cheaper\stock brands.


Being able to always start it in a couple pulls, a tune that didn't drift and overall better reliability with a nice smooth powerband really made it worth the extra cash.


Of course now i am lazy and run flashlights but eh, lol.
 
I'm going to have to side with Zandor and FLM Savage on this one Alien.
I'm a schmuck basher but I really like to see how fast it'll go.
If I can find an engine that provides a smoother power band, is easier to tune, and hauls butt - I'm all for it.
I've got a box full of old engines that have a lot of life left on them, but they lacked power, weren't fast enough, blah, blah, blah.

BTW - Novarossi has a direct replacement for the 2.5 - under 200 bucks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ne-w-51225-206-Tuned-Pipe-Set-Revo-Turbo-Plug
Comes with it's own exhaust header and pipe too.
Max. Power: 1.76 HP
R.P.M (Max. power): 37,500 R.P.M.
Practical Range: 6,000 ~ 44,000 R.P.M.
 
TGL said:
BTW - Novarossi has a direct replacement for the 2.5 - under 200 bucks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ne-w-51225-206-Tuned-Pipe-Set-Revo-Turbo-Plug
Comes with it's own exhaust header and pipe too.
Max. Power: 1.76 HP
R.P.M (Max. power): 37,500 R.P.M.
Practical Range: 6,000 ~ 44,000 R.P.M.
Click to expand...

Well under the $300-$400 that we were talking about. I guess it's a matter of personal preference and budget. I don't have the money, nor do I care to spend that much on any one part if it's not needed.
 
$150-$250 is the range I live in now, vs the $100-$150 when I started the hobby. Going with a decent middle of the road engine these days gets you a decent engine.

Sure, I'd like to try a $400 engine... but my stupid brain just won't make the leap! Besides, I'm sure as soon as I install a $400 engine, I'll flip the rig and bust the crank case. That's how I roll. ;)

TRX engines in general are known to be finicky. Some are great, many are not. For $125, is it worth the gamble to you?
 
You guys have made some really good points. I think I'm going to go with the replacement, just because it's cheap and what I'm used to so far. Maybe once I get a bigger budget, I might go for the 200-250 range
 
You got to what you got to do!
Just remember properly seal the mill.Let it sit for 24 hours after.
Do your break in to a tee..don't start tweaking the needles back and forth That does not help a thing you just get more pissed off.
And when you do start tweaking.baby steps.no 1/4 turns or even 1/8 turns little little little moves. and only to the hsn in till its broke in proper.

Then you can go to the lsn to get the performance your looking for.and again little steps..To get the right heat and speed..The sweet spot all mills have one.
Heat = speed cold = sluggish
find the right balance...And you will be golden my friend:)
 

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