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Forward only conversion ='s does nothing for more speed!!!

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NB, I agree with HB, no modded tranny gears or f/r diffs for a Sirio 18 maxx. Only the the the higher hp/torque 21's will require it. ( unless you do some very extreme bashing )
If you are into extreme bashing or bb conversions the problem that I've seen is the shearing of the 4 screws that hold the cup/ring together. Some of the members are using stock properly shimmed f/r diffs on 21 conversions without issues or so I'm told. I'll question that comment. Maybe this will generate some more feedback.

So far these have worked for mine but I'm being informed that they may not last.
Part #DC-RRP-RG-Combo
http://www.kippster-racing.com/
 
I use maximizer al diff cups with mod'd ring gear and havn't looked at the diffs for over a gallon now. I post a fall apart time when they fall apart. I'm also running full RRP steel trans and spur. I'm using RRP's steel/aluminum FOC. I've also changed the trans case and diff cases for al ones to help prevent flexing.

Oh yeah, i'm running an OS 21 RG with 72/19 spur/clutchbell. When everything wears out, i'll let you all know how long in gallons it took. I'm keeping keep track so i know if it's worth the extra $ all the steel crap costs. Before i replaced the trans with steel, i went through 1 Traxxas FOC and 3 of the 2 speed spur gears. I've also blown 4 diffs with stock gears and cases.

All this was done in 2 gallons.

I'm now on gallon 2 of the RG 21 conversion and gallon 1 of all the gear changing.

I drive pretty hard. Not a whole lot of wide open for 5 minutes, but a lot of climbing, ramping and wrecking. I do the occasional high speed pass.
 
Hey guys,

StretchM - First of all, Did I hear you say that you quit smoking cigs on another thread? If so then PHAT KUDDOS go out to you bro. That's the best gift one can give to himself/herself. I've been smoke free for 9 months now and it gets better ever day. I did cold turkey with some nicotine gum. The first three weeks where horrible but once you truly get the nicotine out of your blood it's all uphill from their. ANyway, Depending on the day......I do some extreme bashing in my truck. Intially when I get the bad boy back together with A Siro .18, I'll keep the stock gearing in 20cb/72Spur to c how she performs on the top end compared to my current 2.5 with Siro Piston and sleeve. I'll eventually be running a 16T CB and high tooth Spur for offroad crawlin and we'll c how the stock plastic holds up. I've already got full MIP shiny CVDS so I don't have to worry about tweaking stock crap, I'll put her back together with just an RRP steel/alluminum FOC and stock plastic gears for now to c what happens. I might replace the primary gear (connects to spur) as it looks a little bent. I might also do some killer bearings in the tranny. As you probably know, friction is one of your worse enemies in this hobby and many.

Humbolt - Thanks dude, I'll let you know how I like your old SIrio .18 when I get everything up and running again. Still in lots of pieces now. I'm gonna send my bud in Italy the new Sirio .18 and I might have it EBMod'd for him before I send it out. That should be powerfull as phuck for a "smallbore".

olds - Damn dude...that gearing isn't even that low. Sounds like the stock stuff can't handle the low end of that OS 21 RG mill for chit bro..lol. I'm definitely gonna put better bearings in the diffs and might do the RRP diff ring and pinion. So what brand of gears are you running in your diffs. Aren't you the same dude that said your still running stock Turnbuckles with all that sweet chit??lol.

BTW>......What kind of grease are you guys using for the ring and pinion. I don't need to touch the actual diffs this time around...we'll c.

Peace
 
I have the maximizer al diff cups with a modified stock ring gear. All the other gears on the diffs are stock, but i did properly shim them to take out the slack. Haven't had any issues yet (1.5 gal).

I'm using the stock turnbuckles with proline ends. They bend occasionally, but that's one of my weak points to save other parts. I'd rather straighten out a turnbuckle, then replace the axle carrier or arms. I did put titanium turnbuckles on once, i broke the ends off after an hour of running. I didn't see the benifit. Other than costing more.

I like to build in easy to fix weak spots. Replacing bulks is a non-issue with the ACNCM bulks. I've also made a 3/32" steel skidplate that bolts front to rear. Between this and the al trans case, i don't have chassis flex. So, something has to give. And as i said, i'd rather it be as easy, fast and cheap to fix as possible.

The only thing i may buy next will be the RPM axle carriers with the oversized bearings. But i did just buy a full set of Boca bearings that i'm waiting on. Once those trash, i'll probably go RPM. As everything sits now, i'm done with upgrades. Now it's just fun.

Don't buy duratrax teflon bearings. They blow. I blew out all 8 that were on the axles in less than a gallon.
 
Olds - Sounds good bro. I just bought a full set of Shiny MIP CVDS and a new SIrio .18. WEll, I was @ my LHS today and they have the full Dynamite conversion kit with CVD's and Mach .26 engine for $285.00. I keep thinking to myself, why in the phuck do I wanna stay with a small bore for my daily driver Maxx. The sirio .18 kicks ass but I need bire bore displacement and torque. I had one new Picco .26 left but I just traded it + cash for a new Sirio .27XL PRO (SWEET) that I should be getting any day. That engine will go in my T-maxx drag race project.

The Dynamite CVD's doen't appear to be as nice as the MIP's but I like them and especialy the way they're setup with the boots. This LHS said they'd replace CVD's no questions asked if they bent or broke (bold claim but they always come through). The Chassis isn't as strong as the Hardocre Ti small block that I already have but it looks pretty tough and the Hardcore big bore conversion kit is rediculous in price wihout an engine (not to mention that I DON't like running Ti skids). I also like the grey "industrial" look of the chassis and cooling head on the engine.

Peace
 
From what i hear, the dynamite kit is supposed to be pretty good. I had one of their Mach engines on my xxx-nt when i bought it. It came on the truck. It was the .15 though. Had pretty good power, relatively easy to tune. But it only lasted 2 gallons.

I bought the XTM 21 kit for $119 and the OS 21 RG-X(P) for $140. Adds up to be a little cheaper, but considering the XTM cvd's suck, dynamite should be a good way to go. I would consider just getting the chassis kit though and running with the engine i bought. But, to each his own.

I'll probably buy the Dynamite cvd's when mine shatter. I think i you can get them for $39 a set off of hobbytown.com. That's quite a bit cheaper than the MIP's.
 
Well, I think the bootsetup on the Dynamites is superior to the MIPS but the overall quality of the MIP's seems superior to the Dynamites....lol. It comes with .26 engine, polished alluminum tuned pipe and header, extended lower braces, nice extended chassis (not titanium but looks sturdy) FULL cvd's and what appears to be some kind of heatsinks and the linkage of course...not sure. The biggest reason I want to get it is because they'll warranty the CVD's no questions asked for a full year. What more could I ask for. I might get the engine MOd'd by EBmods....we'll c. If I don't get the engine mod'd, I sure hope the phucking things lasts longer then 2 gallons bro. I change my mind about chit in this hobby on a daily basis often...lol.

I guess it's time to decided what kind of setup I'll need on the tranny and Diffs now as I know the stock chit wont be able to handle that big bore power.

Peace
 
There really isn't anything out there other than unlimited engineerings $275 diff setups (per diff) that can handle more the 2hp. This is another reason why i chose the OS engine. It cranks out 1.9hp, which is more than enough to pull standing wheelies all day long. But it lets your drive train last awhile.

I posted earlier in this forum with what i'm running. It seems to be holding up pretty good.
 
I'm scratching my head wondering if the CVD's will be able to handle the power of the STock .26, much less said engine mod'd. I'll have to try it and find out.

Peace
 
The cvds can handle anything yopu can throw at them.
 
My XTM's hold up. At least for a gallon. I just broke one last weekend. A friend of mine has the exact same setup i do (OS 21 with XTM chassis) and he just replaced all his outer cvd's with dynamites probably a gallon ago.

The only problem with dynamites conversion that i see is that the center cvd they include in the kit is plastic. XTM's are steel. Noone that i've found offers anything but plastic center axles with their 21 conversion kits but XTM. That's why i went with XTM.
 
If they are MIP's I could probably put a V8 at em and they would handel it. MIP CVD's for the 2.5 maxx are increadably strong.
 
Originally posted by humboldtblazer
If they are MIP's I could probably put a V8 at em and they would handel it. MIP CVD's for the 2.5 maxx are increadably strong.
Click to expand...

I believe it but we'll c how the Dynamites hold up if I get the conversion kit. Even the MIP's are gonna get phucked up if your sliipper is to tight...period.

Peace
 
Both the mip and the dynamite will hold up for this type of application. The mip version appears stonger. I have both.
 
Unfortunatly, if your slipper isn't to tight, you burn up the pegs in your first tank... this is a lose lose situation. You have very little room for error on the slipper.
 
Originally posted by StrechM
Both the mip and the dynamite will hold up for this type of application. The mip version appears stonger. I have both.
Click to expand...

I'm getting ready to call EBMods.....if he says he can get a allot more power out of the Mach .26 then that's probably what I'll end up doing. Hell, I've spent $400 on 1 NovaRossi engine in the past....what's $400 for a full .21 conversion with a MOd'd engine. I know that most Dynamite engines AREN'T made to be "specfic" race engiens like RB, many Siro, most NovaRossi and other but low and mid end torque and power is of the biggest priority. You can't rock crawl with a setup and engine that's all top end.....eh.

Olds - I just need to get her backtogether, fine tune everything and c what's going on with the gearing I'll be running for low end. I'll keep everyone updated.

Peace
 
Foc

I am kinda new to this I just got an Old T maxx and it came with a blown motor. I installed a trx pro 15 engine and I am getting a chattering during hard accelleration from a stop. Is that the noise you are talking about? Also I don't even use reverse because most of the time it gets stuck in reverse and I can't get it out. Is there a way to fix the getting stuck or chattering issue without doing the FOC? Is the chattering bad for the truck? Any advice would help.
 
The foc is an easy install. It'll smooth out the clattering, adding to acceleration. Just plain smoother all together. For now on, feel free to post a new thread. You'll have a little better luck getting answers. A quick search will pull up a ton of info on how to install it, or we'll give you a quick pep talk.:)
 

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