FMS FSC24 Chaser

[TeknoJ]

I have been in to the mini’s lately and was eyeballing this little trophy truck since it was released. I ordered one up and waited impatiently.

I have tinkered on it a little and I have some plans for some mods in the works.
The Good:
It’s a trophy truck duh! The suspension is really good and articulates very well.
The shocks are aluminum with plastic caps. They are oil filled.
Metal gears inside the open diffs.
Huge 370 motor.
7mm hex compatible with 1.0-1.3 wheels if the offset is negative.
Clipless body is cool, kinda.
It comes with a 2s battery and xt30 connector, the electronics can take 3s - allegedly.
Front ball suspension that might offer some tune-ability.

Okay here is the Bad:
Shock springs are too stiff and this thing hops around like a cricket - easy fix.
The rear driveshaft is too long and causes binding at full suspension compression - easy fix.
Kinda slow - easy fix, FMS has a high speed motor and it is on the way. Or get a 3s battery.
2 speed transmission - why!? I may lock it into high gear and remove the shift servo.
Clipless body is slightly painful to remove and put on.

This thread will develop as I spend more time with it. I will post my work around for each issue soon. Overall it’s a great little truck, I just need someone to send me their micro T/B for comparison

 

[Doom!]

Looking forward to seeing this evolve.

 

[RudyF6]

That's a cool little rig. I always thought about trying to build a fast mini with some SCX24 parts, but I may just pick one of these up!
Interested in watching what you do with yours!

 

[TeknoJ]

That's a cool little rig. I always thought about trying to build a fast mini with some SCX24 parts, but I may just pick one of these up!
Interested in watching what you do with yours!

I have seen people on Fakebook use the the Meus mb18 chassis to make a U4 Fun Haver type thing. Looks pretty neat. I will keep the truck body for now. I wanted the purple but, I actually like the red and yellow paint scheme. This would be a superior platform for what you are thinking over the scx24.

 

[Ritz413]

As someone with an appreciation for trophy trucks , I gonna be watching this. I have had thus truck in a shopping cart on more than 1 occasion and just not pulled the trigger yet.

 

[TeknoJ]

As someone with an appreciation for trophy trucks , I gonna be watching this. I have had thus truck in a shopping cart on more than 1 occasion and just not pulled the trigger yet.

They discontinued the FMT24 which seems to be a solid truck so, this is probably about to hit the chopping block. I will do my best to give it an honest review and share my fixes for these small gripes. Its a pretty well designed truck.

 

[TeknoJ]

Here are some shots under the shell and a comparison to a deadbolt length scx24 and the UDIRC ucx24. Very close in size.

 

[TeknoJ]

One issue I have with this truck is some exaggerated slop at the rear axle and driveshaft connection point. There is a shaft that the pinion gear mounts on, and that shaft rides in a bearing. I swapped the shielded bearing for a bronze bushing that was removed from my cr18p T-Hunter when I put better bearings into that. I run in fine dust and dirt so that shielded bearing will be destroyed in no time. The bushing will seal the axle and be just fine.

I opened up the rear axle to access this shaft. The gear is held on with a screw. After going back n forth with some numb skull on fakebook about portal axles and gear mesh, which this does not have portals and the mesh is fine; one fella mentioned shimming it. Again I replied with this has nothing to do with gear mesh, shimming won’t fix this; I was actually wrong, I just didn’t understand what he was getting at and maybe he didn’t either. Here is my fix: a fricken shim between the bushing and the gear. This seats the bushing or bearing on the shaft where it has a tight fit.

 

[TeknoJ]

I mentioned the rear driveshaft binds up at full suspension compression because it is too long. The fix for that is the fcx24 driveshaft front or rear because they are identical or, the scx24 driveshafts for the c10. I bought the c10 shafts from Injora and used the longer male portion with the shorter female portion. The male end required trimming of about 1/4 - 3/8", or roughly 8mm. This gives you a universal shaft vs the stock dog bone type. People complain about pins falling out so I used some 5 min epoxy over those to prevent that. In the photo above you can see where I placed a dab of epoxy on the driveshaft pins.
On to the shocks: I drained the fluid, greased up the seals, and refilled with 37wt on all 4. I just wanted to slow them down. I left the stock springs on the front but used the springs from the UDIRC ucx24 snow leopard on the rear. These springs are softer and the collars are all the way down to keep a good ride height.

 

[TeknoJ]

It is a bummer I had to throw another $20 at this thing with the high speed 22,000rpm motor but man, did it make a difference! Some people claim you can drop a 3s battery in it and it does the same thing but on 2s the 15,000rpm motor does get warm, (not hot) and I think it would get hot on 3s. Them fakebookers are a bunch of idiots and don't know basic things. The claim is, that heat is no issue. I agree to disagree I guess. Brushed motors don't hold up very long with a lot of heat. If you go 3s, you stuff a battery with half the capacity and lose half your run time.