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Flywheel loose

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SumoDethRat

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When I went back to breaking in my 4.6, It siezed again (it hadn't run for more than 30 sec) after removing then glowplug and coming back an hour later it was still stuck so I tried moving the flywheel and it just free wheeled. It had zero grab and just spun around. But when I disassembled the car to tighten it, the nut wouldn't go and it just pulled the pull start cord into the back. Should the engine be able to rotate in both directions. I dont remember it doing that in assembly. There also black grease on the collet, I figure it came from spilt fuel.


I think this is a sign that rc is not ment for me especially after buying the $15 ARO with a futuba crystal sticker on it, and crashing my LHS computer the past three times I was there when processing my order.
 
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I think theres a 1 way bearing for the pull start and it only allows the camshaft to rotate in one direction(no reverse) and if it turns both ways something is terribly wrong.
 
Sumo, you can spin the flywheel both ways, so long as you pull the pullstart off. You may also want to try heating the head up with a hair dryer or heat gun and pulling on the pull start to free it up.

Don't get discouraged, my man! You'll get it going! Just sounds like you got a really tight mill! Next time you start it, run it WAY RICH to make sure enough lubricant is getting in there.
 
Ok let me get this right!
So you put a wrench on the F/W nut and just turned it with out useing any thing to hold the F/W??
And this is why the P/S cord got sucked in to the housing..

I had the 4.6 And went through 2 p/s The dam thing was so tight I busted my knuckles open Alot during break in..
 
I hate pull starts... Do they make the roto start plate for the 4.6?
 
TacRacing said:
I hate pull starts... Do they make the roto start plate for the 4.6?
Click to expand...

Yes they do. You sound like me....I hate pull starts.
 
ZANDOR said:
Ok let me get this right!
So you put a wrench on the F/W nut and just turned it with out useing any thing to hold the F/W??
And this is why the P/S cord got sucked in to the housing..

I had the 4.6 And went through 2 p/s The dam thing was so tight I busted my knuckles open Alot during break in..
Click to expand...

Even if I held the fly wheel it would do any good. The fly wheel just spins around the collet. Think of it as totally disconnected from the crankshaft, so holding the flywheel does nothing when attempting the tighten the nut. But like I said before the nut wont tighten anymore and rotates everything backwards pulling the pullstart in.

And it's way rich, like spits half the fuel out the exhaust and smokes at idle rich.

Also the damn aluminum tube with threading that holds the suspension to the main chassis at the top had to be pulled out of the plastic after it wouldnt release the screw... just another thing to be pissed at.
 
Sounds to me like you may need to shim the flywheel when you get it unseized. I'd take the pull start off and free it up. Then, add a few shims between the bearing and collet, pout a new collet on that's nice and tight, then put your flywheel back on. Just an idea.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Sounds to me like you may need to shim the flywheel when you get it unseized. I'd take the pull start off and free it up. Then, add a few shims between the bearing and collet, pout a new collet on that's nice and tight, then put your flywheel back on. Just an idea.
Click to expand...

I had to do this to mine, haven't had a problem since.
 
You need to lock the piston to get the flywheel nut tightened. You can either use a piston locking tool or sneek the end of a zip tie through the head button. That will lock the piston and crankshaft so you can get that nut either tightened down, or loosened to add some shims.
 
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sweetdiesel said:
You need to lock the piston to get the flywheel nut tightened. You can either use a piston locking tool or sneek the end of a zip tie through the head button. That will lock the piston and crankshaft so you can get that nut either tightened down, or loosened to add some shims.
Click to expand...


I tried the zip tie thing earlier looking for something to lock the piston, except it just cut the end off. I went to using after run oil to get the nut back off after everything was freed up.

Now I need shims, which I do not have nor will I be getting anytime soon.

does tower have any shims??

or would this work? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKJ3&P=7
 
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sumo, you need the ones shown by s-maxxin, or get the OFNA shim kit. Go to Ultimate Hobbies on Katella and Tustin Ave in Orange. Show the pic from Tower or just ask for the full OFNA shim kit.

If you get real stuck on how to do this, let me know. I might have time even to meet up and work on the mill for you. I think you are close to solving all your problems and a little TLC and QC work now will get you a reliable and fun rig. DON'T give up!
 

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