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Fix for sloppy hubs?

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cptvkirk

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Anyone have a fix for taking up the slop between the hub and axle stub? I am constantly having to remove, apply threadlock and reinstall the hub pins because it loosens just enough to allow the hub to wabble on the shaft but not actually all the way out. I'm frustrated nearly to the point of epoxying the hub to the snub shaft when i put them together this next time and cut off and replace them if I need to get in there again. This probably wouldn't be so bad on a smaller tire set up, but at over 3" from center, I get more than a 1/4" of tire wobble just from movement of the hub on the stub shaft even though the snub shaft fits in the bearing very well. Combine that with any play in the ball ends and tires start dancing all over the place pretty quick.
I have everything else taken care of and for about the first 15 minutes of running, the screw part of the pin seems to pinch down good enough but because the hub isn't a very good fit on the snub, it quickly works loose. Anyone think silcone would take up the slop without welding it on?

Let me know if anyone else is having the same issues. no, my pins aren't bent, no the stubs or hubs aren't worn. Bearings to stub still fit good. just these hubs are sloppy.
 
Last edited:
longest unanswered post since joining

Ok, well, anyone have any recommendations for decent hubs that fit real nice and will still support my factory 17mm wheels?
 
try using the oversized axle carriers from RPM, they helped reduce slop along with some aluminum hexes and decent wheels, Traxxas CVDs would probably help also.
 
tomayto tomahto?

lol...yeah, being a noob, i'm still picking up on the common names for stuff. At least I take the time to find the stuff in the parts manual and use that.

So, what I call snub shaft...is the center most portion of the axle assy that is attached at the end of the drive shaft, through the bearings and sticks out for the hub (hex?) to mount to. The hub, part #5353, (is this what you call the hex?) mounts to the snub shaft by sliding over it and is then pinned with a screw pin to secure it. It is this screw pin that is constantly having to be retightened because the the gap between the snub shaft and hub are great enough to allow motion about the pin.
 
You can get the RD Racing Aluminum hubs which have a much larger outer bearing and the M2C 8mm stub shaft and 17mm hubs. This is the setup I have and it will run you about $150. It eliminates the play between the set screw and the axle, but you'll still have it on the back bearing. There is really no way to completely get rid of it. I'm not sure it was worth the $150 though. Although I do like the set screws for the pivot balls and the cross pins. I saw the post recommending the integy carriers. Stay away from Integy. It's garbage.
 
I appreciate all the feedback. Since there is nothing "wrong" with my hubs i'll just use them for now and use a dab of silicone sealant to bridge the gap, stop the slop and replace them when they fail completely...and at 150 i'll probably be looking at different alternatives
 
LocTite the crap out of that grub screw holding the pin in. That ought to keep the screw from falling out, even if it doesn't help with the play.
 
It's not as big a deal as I thought.

no grub screw for this set up. the pin itself is threaded on the end and yes, i gave on figuring out what to do. I locktited it again but instead of cranking down to stop to the wabble, just took it barely snug so the pin stays and the vibration will not work it loose again. Appreciate the feedback and as I watch the gabs slowly widen on several of my parts, a little wheel wobble doesn't seem so bad anymore.

I've looked at a few other set ups and found as much or more play from pin holes wearing and such yet they still handle just fine.
 
May be late, but I bought a shim set from pro-line and used them to bridge the gap between the 17mm hub and the carrier. It helped to reduce some of my wheel slop.
I will look for a link to it if that sounds like a possible solution. AP
 
LBSinGTX said:
May be late, but I bought a shim set from pro-line and used them to bridge the gap between the 17mm hub and the carrier. It helped to reduce some of my wheel slop.
I will look for a link to it if that sounds like a possible solution. AP
Click to expand...

funny you mention this, i was eyeing up discarded coke cans wondering how close the thickness was to play i had.

I'd be interested in the link for the shim set if you find it.
 
Wow, I thought i had slop, not sure i'd be able to press a hub over even the smallest o-rings i have available here but i appreciate the input and will take a look around for possibilities. Maybe if I just leave them as is, they'll wear quicker so i can justify and upgrade to better fitting parts.
 
found my fix.

Ok, I don't think i fully understood the o-ring post until after i replied. You used it for between the hub and the bearing. Got it. That slight movement wasn't really effecting my steering much and i can live with it. I also found a fix for my own issue that is holding up. I took thin plastic, litterally tore a nickel or so sized piece from a sandwich bag and place it over the shaft before sliding the hub back on. It was tight but the plastic gave where it needed and took up the slop on the shaft. It made getting the screw pin back in a little difficult to line up, but once was all back together it was very solid. If I think of it, I'll post more after a couple tanks of fuel to see how well it held up.
 

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