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First tmaxx project

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Aluminum Shock towers, FLM or UE (unlimited engineering) knucklehead towers. I prefer the K-head towers but flm towers do well also and have a good replacement policy.
I prefer not to use RPM towers as they flex too much (personal choice). You probably couldn’t bend a K-head tower if you tried, if you did you would have more to repair than the tower.:)

You will also want new hinge pins for aluminum bulks (e-clip style if you didn’t know) or you will have to install the lower pins backwards into the arms during assembly which makes it a pita when the need removed.

Good aluminum chassis braces are a +, New Era has a good set for the extended chassis you have.

Rule of thumb with a TMaxx: Aluminum down the center, plastic on the corners.

I agree with everything. ^ You can't go wrong with those recommendations.
If you can find them, there's a company called Vertigo that used to make some nice chassis braces.
 
A lot of info going to start looking for parts and making a shopping list it would be nice if I had a shop to get everything at once but one piece at a time
 
Yup, before you buy something useless dont be shy to run your thoughts by us first man
 
Tore down the front diff cleaned checked
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checked drive line and the boots are torn replace?
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all shocks still holding up :)
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Progress as of now just doing cleaning and inspections a arms steering assembly and diff are in good shape

Ps I bought the truck with this pipe
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I swapped back to oem was told this pipe makes your motor run hot any thoughts?
 
That pipe doesn't do your engine any good,

You can replace all those rubber booties but might be best to just leave good enough alone

The hitec is for sure better than stock, after that goes we will point ya twards something better

Dirt is the arch enemy of your shocks, did you check the oil level in them yet?
 
Ok on the exhaust pipe I added copper tubing to shoot the exhuast out the back to avoid oil all on my wheels lol does this cause a issue with back pressure ?

I haven't got around to the shocks yet but now that's first on my agenda when I check it how full does it have to be to operate properly?

FYI: when I got the truck with the dual pipe I had the local shop replace worn parts in the engine and retune it to the factory pipe
 
The redneck exaust deflector deal isn't helping your tune either man

On to shock talk....there is a great article or 10 on here about shocks you should check out because we could talk shocks for weeks, lol,..on the simple side when you compress the shock all the way you should not here the shock piston mixing air, this is called squishy, means you need shock oil, if you put too much in you will blow a shock seal
 
So my best bet is to get a 45 deflector lol

And I'll look into article for my shocks info
 
Can't seem to figure out how to take apart the remaining driveshaft from the axle carriers

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Pop the hex off the axle with a screwdriver then pull the pin out and the stub axle will slide out.
 
Pop off that hex to reveal the hex pin, the pin will slide out of the axle and the axle will slide out of the hub
 
I posted and just looked at it after posting and got it lol I feel dumb sometimes thanks guys :)
 
So if the dual pipe I have won't do my motor any good what's it good for?

I'm not getting one but I wanted to ask y'all about the supercharger kits I was told that the nitro engines are already setup for performance and since they are so small that the supercharger would create a drag on the motor causing more harm than good

Any thoughts on it?
To me I think it would work in a since but I feel a pointless upgrade to me lol
 
That's what I figured lol the old shop told me that stuff is pointless since the motor is already setup for performance there is no room for improvements
 
There is room for improvement with proper pipe/plug/fuel and internal engine mods
 
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