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First drag car!!
- Thread starter Ritz413
- Start date
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Beer_Goggles_RC
I'm too drunk to taste this chicken
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RC Showcase: 1
- Messages
- 1,447
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- 4,210
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- 1,370
- Location
- Oakville, MO
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Messages
- 2,176
- Reaction score
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- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #43
Now see this...
- Messages
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- 935
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- Location
- New England
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Boating
I have that body. Didn't know it could be bought with a car kit
- Messages
- 1,136
- Reaction score
- 935
- Points
- 280
- Location
- New England
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Boating
Working head and tail lites, exhaust flash on acceleration. Saw it at the hobby store whilst picking up parts for 4wd Rustler, had tohave it. Picked out the paint instantly.
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- Points
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- Thread starter
- #46
Looks like I grabbed the motor esc combo at the right time. Just went to look and see if getting 2nd was an option...they are back up to 130
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- Thread starter
- #47
I am not
convinced free candy and free stickers are equal....
- Messages
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- 788
- Thread starter
- #48
These parts will get you some of the way towards running whatever 12mm hex tire and wheel combo you want....
It's is not a complete idea on its own though. Either there are mods to make, or there is another piece needed to make things work on the gear side.
It's is not a complete idea on its own though. Either there are mods to make, or there is another piece needed to make things work on the gear side.
- Messages
- 2,176
- Reaction score
- 6,428
- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #49
1/2 of the conversion done. Only 1 trip to the hardware so far. The manufacturer recommends d-shafting.....so hand files it is...
I also decided to get some bolts and cut the heads off, pour on the loctite, and get some washers/lock nuts fir the outside. Left myself as much thread as the original plus some extra. A little surprised to find m4 metric hardware.
finally 1 side installed on the car. 10mm nylon spacer to make sure the alignment with the spur gear stays true. Now we can all watch loctite dry together....
I also decided to get some bolts and cut the heads off, pour on the loctite, and get some washers/lock nuts fir the outside. Left myself as much thread as the original plus some extra. A little surprised to find m4 metric hardware.
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #50
It does look like in order to make this work on the spur gear side I need 2 more parts. The aluminum gear hub, and a new spur gear that fits the bolt pattern on the new gear hub. Already ordered....I do wish they had a note on the first part that said these would be required and save me paying shipping twice....
- Messages
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- Reaction score
- 6,428
- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #51
Did a little supporting my local hobby shop today. Rear 12mm hex Proline showtime drag wheels. No rubber just yet, but 1 step closer.
I used to have a hobby store [no tracks] about 20 minutes away. After they closed I found 1 about 45 minutes away [also no tracjs], and they have recently closed. The 1 I go to now is about 40 minutes, with tracks, and is the best of the bunch. Hopefully they keep going for years to come.
I used to have a hobby store [no tracks] about 20 minutes away. After they closed I found 1 about 45 minutes away [also no tracjs], and they have recently closed. The 1 I go to now is about 40 minutes, with tracks, and is the best of the bunch. Hopefully they keep going for years to come.
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #52
Looking good!!
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- Thread starter
- #53
No room for a traditional heatsink and fan combo. But the name of the game is still keeping electronics cool. So....I guess I am gonna try raspberry pi micro processor heatsinks, and thremocunductive 2 sided tape like it was a cpu. Copper is a superior heat conductor to the aluminum hobby stuff anyway.
- Messages
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- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #54
The wheelie bar has arrived!! 1 step closer
- Messages
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- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #55
While I wait for the rest of my parts....none of the mods I have done prevent me from using the factory wheels.....so it's off to the blacktop to dial in the steering and gets some initial specs
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #56
And we're back....so I think my wheel conversion has looks and performance merit at this point. I need a larger contact patch fir this to be effective. I tried a slow launch up to about 15 before I hit it full throttle....limited to 50%. The best I can do atm is 26mph as the back end breaks loose and the car spins in a circle. The last time did so in a way that knocked off 1 of my oring tires up front and made me glad I had a servo saver.
In other news I now also know the front of body has to come up unless the surface is smooth as glass.
In other news I now also know the front of body has to come up unless the surface is smooth as glass.
- Messages
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- Reaction score
- 6,428
- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #57
It also appears my pinion shifted. Given the initial results I am gonna bump the pinion size up a bit as well
- Messages
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- Thread starter
- #58
Now upgraded from 25t to 29t...
- Messages
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- Points
- 1,320
- Location
- Monson, MA
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Boating
What gears are you running? I'm really close with the rail at this point. Battery mounting is about it. I've got 21 pinion and 81 spur. Options are 18 pinion or 22 and 24. The steering on the rail is way different. The entire plate pivots and the steering blocks are locked in. Not sure why they do it that way, but I'm gonna try it as is. Can always be modified later. Not sure how much steering is actually needed.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 2,176
- Reaction score
- 6,428
- Points
- 788
- Thread starter
- #60
It's the factory spur at 81t, and the initial testing was done with 25t pinion.
