Finally!

[MudSlinger33]

I have had this revo 3.3 roller sitting on the shelf for two years now, every winter I keep putting it off. Well, things have finally slowed down, which makes it a perfect time to finish this thing up. I have on order an OS .21 TM with a THS pipe (as I heard this was a good combo.), Hitec throttle and a Hitec 333 oz. steering servo. The rest of the truck will remain stock for now (including reverse.) Other than the FOC and RPM parts what are good upgrades needed for this truck. It will be my first Revo, so I don't know of the strengths or weakness's of this particular truck.

This is how it has sat for two years...

 

[SchrodeMode]

Nice way to start a build, clean!!
First, look for any part made by Integy...they have the best upgrades known to man!!!
Second, look into NOS kits. The .21 is good, but NOS makes it better.
If you're running NOS, ditch the THS and get a RD Logics rear exhaust....BEST on the market.

 

[hamz9561]

Ignore Schrode. He's been at the Christmas punch in the batcave again. After adding the FOC the center diff/rear brake is a good upgrade as it helps adjust the brake bias.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

 

[SchrodeMode]

Ignore Schrode. He's been at the Christmas punch in the batcave again.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

You're just mad because I've given the best advice.

 

[MudSlinger33]

Nice way to start a build, clean!!
ditch the THS and get a RD Logics rear exhaust....BEST on the market.

Now, are you talking about the single or dual tipped exhaust? The dual exhaust looks AWESOME and should run well with the Nos, supercharger and the integy parts. :

On a more serious note... I am considering the center diff. Will the stock tranny gears hold up to the .21? Or should a set of RR gears be put on order.

 

[SchrodeMode]

I've never had a Revo but I've read mixed reviews on the center diff. I've always heard that they were an excellent upgrade, BUT if you're putting down too much power you'll end up having a front wheel drive Revo. Again, I have no experience with one but I'm just passing on what I've read.

---------- Post added at 8:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:45 PM ----------

And I was talking about the dual tipped one.

 

[olds97_lss]

New era roll bar, RPM truetrack for the rear, RPM carriers/arms up front.

If you don't have one, get the engine bay brace. Helps tweaking the engine bay area:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMHV3&P=7

You may want to start saving up for RRP steel trans internals... Mine held up ok with an OS21RG (oldie but a goodie), but may not hold up to the 21TM. I know it didn't hold up to my LRP.

With that much grunt doing the steering, get a HD saver spring:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGE0&P=7

I have 180oz and that will overpower the HD spring. You could probably come down to a 200oz servo and be completely fine. More than that and your just wasting it by compressing the saver spring anyway.

Which pipe did you go with? There are 3 THS pipes. Just curious as I'm pretty sure my wife got me their BB pipe and high torque SB pipe for when I run a 3.3/18TM.

 

[MudSlinger33]

The servo was somewhat of an impulse buy. The guy at my LHS gave me 10%
off plus my in store credit, so it only cost me 30 bucks, a new servo spring is no big deal. I went with the THS146H hard coated pipe, it says it was a good match for the 3.3 and the .18tm. The engine bay must be a weak point on the chassis, hence the need for the brace? Either way I will have on order one of those. I love the new era roll bar on my LST, I didn't know they made one for the revo too.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, it's a weaker point on the chassis, tends ot flex and burn up spur gears. With the setup I have, I haven't ever stripped a spur.

The new era bar is a bit short for a BB and maybe the 3.3, but you can raise the rear legs a bit with spacers to get it higher. That along with a wing kit does a nice job of protecting the engine.

You may want to look into a way to brace the rear body mount like I did as it flexes a lot. I took an LST2 turnbuckle and mounted it to the top of one fo the shocks as well as the pipe mount. This helps minimize flex which will bend the body mount into your shiny new pipe.

 

[MudSlinger33]

Thanks for all the help Olds. It appears the that my chassis already comes with the engine bay brace, but I still ordered the HD servo saver spring and the new era roll bar. I can't wait to get this thing broken in, unfortunately it will have to wait until spring.

 

[SchrodeMode]

unfortunately it will have to wait until spring.

Send it here, I'll knock it out real quick for ya.

 

[MudSlinger33]

Ha, I thought you would say that!

 

[SchrodeMode]

I'm pretty good at BREAKing in engines.

When I do it,

When my buddy does it,

 

[olds97_lss]

I have 3 or 4 that look like that from my jato.

 

[SchrodeMode]

I have 3 or 4 that look like that from my jato.

Yea, the cooling head sticks up just enough to get ripped off if you're upside down.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

 

[ausher]

That almost looks as bad as my rustlers 2.5

 

[MudSlinger33]

I'll knock it out real quick for ya.

What will you be "knocking" out, the rod through the case?
On second thought, maybe I will do it myself.

 

[MudSlinger33]

Hey Olds, would you mind posting a picture of how you braced the rear body mount on your revo? I have a couple LST turn buckles laying around that need to be put to good use.

 

[olds97_lss]

Hey Olds, would you mind posting a picture of how you braced the rear body mount on your revo? I have a couple LST turn buckles laying around that need to be put to good use.

No problem:

I took the shock mount bolt, put it in a drill then turned down the head with a file so it would fit down inside the steel ball on the rod end.

 

[MudSlinger33]

Perfect, thank you very much. :thumbup: