• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

FINALLY got my maxx running right

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
L

Lason

RCTalk Champion
Messages
186
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
DFW
RC Driving Style
Like the title says, I finally got her running right. Ever since I got her about a monthe and a half ago she has been a pain in the ass running wise. She wouldnt start when hot, wouldnt idle for crap and never kept her settings. Well I noticed today that the tank was cracked and that would explain why she was running REAL rough the last time I took her out, so when I replace it I found a big ass hole in the bottom of the tank and now with the new tank she runs AWSOME!!! I havent had a chance to run her out in the open considering its 11:30pm but I tuned her in pretty good in the garage and for the first time ever I have been able to get her to run under 250 degrees (it usually runs 250-255). Anyway I can't wait till tomorow as I am off work and going to the track so my wife can clean this house. I wouldnt be surprised if this tank was cracked from the get go considering the motor mount was broken in two and 2 wires on the harness for the easy start were cut and frayed upon arrival. Traxxas surprisingly enough didnt want to help me out with repairs but no problem considering this will be the last traxxas product I get :bling: .
 
Glad to here get some action pics.

cought check auctions cough
 
OK this is starting to really suck, I just cracked another tank and I didnt even hit anything. The chassis is flexing from jumping and cracking these things and I am getting tired of forking out $14 everytime. Anyone have any idea on what I could do? I tried cutting little "donuts" out of fuel line to help give the tank a lil bit of flex but there isnt enough room under that thing to fart much less to put pieces of fuel line. I guess I can trim a little bit of the mounting posts to give me the room I need. Anyway if anyone has any ideas speak now please. Thanks in advance.
Lason
 
I had the same problem then my buddy at the LHS told me of an idea. He said, whenever you have a spare part on hand, you never break the part. Sure as poop, I havent broken one since.

And yes, I use about 1/8th inch bushings (rubber) between the tank and the chassis. Its my opinion that the post design of those tanks suck, but, until I find an alternative I'm stuck with it too.
 
If you are breaking tanks for seemingly no reason, it may be that the holes in your chassis are not an exact match to the tank legs. You have two options. You can remove one mounting screw, which will allow the tank to flex. You can also enlarge the mounting holes on the chassis slightly. This will also allow the tank to flex. Rubber washer under the tank legs may also work. I've tried them in the past, but they are a huge PITA to put on.
 
I have had problems with cracking tanks too. I put rubber washers in between the chassis and tank posts and i havnt broken one since... i broke mine mainly from fliping at high speeds.. try that it may savy you $14 and another thing dont tighten the screws so there tight i leave them a little loose... so the tank can move a tiny bit...
 
OK I understand about the rubber under the legs but I was trying to put some on last night with this tank and there is no room to put on under there. I guess I need to take my motor out to get the easy start motor out of the way. We will see.
 
Here's my solution to the problem.

What you will need:
A four inch length of fuel tubing.
Four mounting screws that are 1/4 longer than the stock mounting screws.

The procedure:
1. Remove fuel from tank
2. Remove tank from chassis
3. Cut four 1/2-3/4 inch lengths of fuel tubing from your 4 inch piece
4. Force as much of the tubing onto the individual tank posts, leaving about 1/4 inch beyond the end of the post
5. Position the tank over the holes on the chassis.
6. Using the longer mounting screws, feed the screw through the chassis, into the fuel tubing and then the mounting posts.
7. Tighten the mounting screws until you compress the excess fuel tubing about 1/8"
8. Re-attach the fuel lines, fill 'er up and go.

This will give you some motion on the tank, but the fuel tubing will act as a shock absorber. I did this mod after I cracked my fuel tank (about eight months ago), and I have not cracked the replacement (despite several bash sessions with Pirata, The Master of Disaster.)

These directions should get the job done. If you are having trouble visualizing the mod, let me know, and I will snap a photo of my tank and post it for you.

Good luck and happy Maxxing!
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Here's my solution to the problem.

What you will need:
A four inch length of fuel tubing.
Four mounting screws that are 1/4 longer than the stock mounting screws.

The procedure:
1. Remove fuel from tank
2. Remove tank from chassis
3. Cut four 1/2-3/4 inch lengths of fuel tubing from your 4 inch piece
4. Force as much of the tubing onto the individual tank posts, leaving about 1/4 inch beyond the end of the post
5. Position the tank over the holes on the chassis.
6. Using the longer mounting screws, feed the screw through the chassis, into the fuel tubing and then the mounting posts.
7. Tighten the mounting screws until you compress the excess fuel tubing about 1/8"
8. Re-attach the fuel lines, fill 'er up and go.

This will give you some motion on the tank, but the fuel tubing will act as a shock absorber. I did this mod after I cracked my fuel tank (about eight months ago), and I have not cracked the replacement (despite several bash sessions with Pirata, The Master of Disaster.)

These directions should get the job done. If you are having trouble visualizing the mod, let me know, and I will snap a photo of my tank and post it for you.

Good luck and happy Maxxing!
Click to expand...


Not a bad idea Skymaxx. I just a got new tank so i will try that out. Thanks!!
 
I just realized something...the thing about the longer mounting screws. That was what I did originally, but I had too much play. Use the stock mounting screws. They will not go all the way into the posts, but should be sufficient to hold the tank on. Let me know how it goes.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
I just realized something...the thing about the longer mounting screws. That was what I did originally, but I had too much play. Use the stock mounting screws. They will not go all the way into the posts, but should be sufficient to hold the tank on. Let me know how it goes.
Click to expand...


Yeah I used the stock screws and they work fine. How much play do you have when you try to rock your tank back and forth? Mine only have a VERY little bit of play but the screws are threaded into the tank just enough to hold it down but still allow a gap between the tank and chassis.
 
That sounds just right. Now what you have is what is known as a floating tank. The chassis can flex (no impact to the tank). The truck can take a hard bump or landing (no impact to the tank). Bottom line is the tank is now "floating" and able to handle most rough treatment.
 
Yeah I dont the same thing to my RC10GT to help give the tank "shocks" to prevent bubbles in the fuel line but my maxx had so little room but I never thought of slipping the tubeing OVER the legs. Thanks again for the idea Skymaxx, I just took her out in the ice/snow to have some fun and posted up a pic of the aftermath in the gallery.
 
Originally posted by Christian
Spray only 1 spritz of armor all into your 'new' gallon of fuel. This will cause the bubbles to cease. I dont know of armor all causing any harm and even in looking at its chemical composition, find no reason it cannot be used. A LOT of people in this are have used it for a long time and have had no problems ever, including myself.

Get one of those little spray bottles of armor all (looks like a womans hairspray pump bottle) and JUST 1 SPRITZ! No more than that. No more bubbles

Dont spray it in the tank though. That would be too much in my opinion.
Click to expand...

This post was made some time ago, but the trick works. Still do not know why, but it does. Give it a shot.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx


This post was made some time ago, but the trick works. Still do not know why, but it does. Give it a shot.
Click to expand...

Wow, armorall huh? I have never heard of that but I really dont have a problem with bubbles anymore but I may do that anyway.
 
Roger that. Just wanted to share the tup with you.

Glad to see you got to run your T-Maxx. Sorry, the icey stuff made things tough. I know I had a blast when I ran mine in the snow. I kept a hair dryer blowing on the engine between runs to keep things nice and warm (not to mention it helped thaw out frozen servos and linkages).

Anyway, glad to be of assistance. Let us know if there is anything else we can help with. Seeya 'round the forum.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
I kept a hair dryer blowing on the engine between runs to keep things nice and warm (not to mention it helped thaw out frozen servos and linkages).
Click to expand...

Yeah I just got done blowing hot air myself, lol. Its all dry but late. I think I may run it tomorrow in the snow and have my wife take a short video of it with the digi camera.
 

RC Builds

Back
Top