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few concerns with my tmaxx

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racin_38

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good evening ppl
i recently had my trx2.5 rebuilt and never really ran it before that but i have been running alittle and everytime i run it there is a very concerning seapage of oil coming from what look like from behind the flywheel it makes a helluva mess under the muffler and all along the bottom of the chassis ,
is this normal for the trx or is the front bearing bad or something
i am running S&W 20% with 18% oil ,runs good but hard to tune it right now with the temps outside ,running around 200 to 220 in that range
i am mainly just testing and getting a nitro fix everytime i run it lol
but the leaky oil thing bothers me ,and it is a bear to restart after running alittle ,but that may very well be a tuning issue also ,

1 more thing ,
i converted mine to the integy 3 shoe aluminum kit and seems to sometimes grab early or have to rev the poop out of it to move should i change to the single spring per shoe or is there a different spring i can get that will make it more consistant
thanx
rick
 
Sounds like the oil leak is from the front bearing.
Good tuning can be a real pain in the cold weather. I don't even bother to run when it's below 55 outside.
 
how can i fix the oil leak ,,,and your right i never have had good luck tuning in cold weather so i will just cleaner up and packer away till spring and get the motor fixed ,i got all the parts i am gonna need for it ,rpm widemaxx suspension ,FOC convertion rpm bulkhead braces ,rpm bumpers rpm skids and tranny plate and stuck with stock axles and drive shafts new devestator body .

but how to fix the oil leak ,?????

thanx
rick
 
You have to replace the front main bearing of the engine. I'm guessing you had the engine rebuilt, but only replaced the piston/sleeve?

It's part# 5223

2005-0227-trx2.5crankcase.jpg
 
ok kool. then i can fix it myself???
btw: thats olds i went to tower and found the parts the bearings and i will order them shortly

yeah had a problem with a new airfilter and a staple a little while ago and traxxas put a new piston and sleeve in it for me ,
but i found this now ,,
 
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Sometimes, not ALWAYS, but sometimes a very rich mixture coupled with high compression will cause the front bearing to leak, it builds so much poressure it justneeds somewhere to go.

Before you rip the bearing apart, wait until warmer weather when you don;t have to run it soo rich.

When I was new to tunning, all my rigs lost oil out the front after a good tune a lot of that dried up and wasn't a problem again.

Good luck, I hope it''s not a front bearing I just don't like tearing my engines down.
 
Good point lykan. Hadn't really thought of that. Whenever I had oil leaking out, the engine was about dead anyway, so I ignored it until the engine wouldn't run.
 
i was just sitting here thinking that would or could be the cause of a few tuning issues i have had ,
air leak city
lol
 
As I am from Alaska I had to find a way to run in the colder weather. What I have found that works realy good is to pre heat the engine with tire warmers , it works realy good (Just wire it to run one warmer). I can get the engine warmed up and tuned fairly easy this way and save on fuel getting it heated up too.
As for your integy 3 shoe aluminum issue, I would say that it might be that the shoes are draggin a lil bit on the flywheel, to solve this problim use a (very) thin sheet sheet of teflon cut to fit over the flywheel and pins so the shoes will "glide" and not bind on the flywheel. as for the spring thing I would run with one stiff spring in place. With it slippin I would say with the front leak it is gettin a lil bit of oil on it. Also with aluminum shoes you will have to take out the shoes out more oftin and "scuff" them and the bell so they will grab better as the aluminum will "glaze" over with time and not grab as well.

Steve
 
gotta simple question ,
i notice that the new bell i bought (racers edge 18t vented) does not seat completely covering the shoes even with the stock pads it leaves about a 1/16th of an inch groove on the shoe
now the bell has 3 bearings 1 top 2 inside ,can i replace the 2 with 1 alittle smaller width wise and reinstall it so it moves the bell closer and covers the shoes??
not sure about this but it looks like it could work ,but i do not wantot screw anything up by doing this ,
thanx
rick
btw: lol
1 more thing i am running the 72t spur and how the devil do i keep it from hitting my airfilter ??i relize most all wobble but there is very little clearance in there and i am concerned about it creating a hole and letting dirt be ingested into my motor
 
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It has 3 bearings? That's weird... in most applications I've seen or read about, the most you have is 2 bearings and a shim in the middle to keep them from touching one another.

Normally, the bell itself has a little lip in between where the bearings go so the outside race of the bearings sit against the lip to keep the bearings from wandering. The lip also keeps proper spacing between the bearings.

I'd find some shims to go inbetween the bearings.
 
honestly it has 3 bearings i was alittle off on the way they were installed ,
2 top /1 towards flywheel and i am going back to the stock fly wheel and clutch ,too may problems with the integy 3 shoe kit ,first time installed the 3 shoe the pads gaulded fast to the pegs.integy fixed it for me ,this time the pegs fell out so screw it i am going back to stock anyway i tore the motor off thinking the flywheel works loose ,found that the front bearing is screwed ,got the front 1 out but i can figure out how to remove the inner bearing with out nicking thing up
there isnt much room to get into that race to tap it out ,,
any ideas ??
 
Your certain it's a bearing and not a ridge for the bearings to rest against?

Sorry, I just can't imagine there would be 3 bearings side by side by side in there.

Obviously, the easiest would be to tap at the edges, but you may damage it. Or, find something that is the same diameter as the outside of the bearing and drive it out.

Normally, depending on how stuck they are, put a pair of needle nosed pliers with the jaws closed through the center of the bearing and gently tap on the bell. The pliers act as a variable punch so to speak. But your depending on the strength of the bearings race to take the abuse, so don't be to aggressive or you will ruin it anyway.
 
yeah i am sure ,the top bearing towards the C clip is seperated by a little ridge then the other 2 bearings
and i am not worried about damaging the bearing they are being replaced anyway
just need to get it out is all
thanx
 
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