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Feeling overwhelmed

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T

ThatGuy

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I just purchased a couple of nitro RTR buggies off of craigslist. One was used with a new engine, the other was never used. It's one thing to see these on YouTube and read about them on websites but in real life this might be harder for me then it looks! :whhooo:

I think I'll be fine, just a lot of info out there that needs to be digested before i try to fire one of these up.
 
Patience is a virtue…
Tuning is an art.

Michelangelo didn’t paint the Sistine Chapel in a day.:)
 
Snook Man said:
Patience is a virtue…
Tuning is an art.

Michelangelo didn’t paint the Sistine Chapel in a day.:)
Click to expand...
Did you see how pissed off he got when they asked for a second coat?

Although lost to history, let's not forget the Bambini Brothers. They tiled the Sistine Chapel floor.
 
I will have to wait until this weekend to really look things over. By the time I get home from work it's already dark outside.
So here is my first question. I know that it is not recommended to perform an engine break in during "cold weather" (especially for first timers like me), so what outside air temp should I be waiting for?
 
Good question…

With no experience, I would advise to wait until its above 65F (Warmer would be better) and then monitor the temps to be sure to keep it in the safe zone. Its hard to keep a new engine up to temp (at least 200F) when running rich for break-in in cooler weather. Often you will need a sock or aluminum foil wrap on the cooling head just to get a little above 200F.

I broke in a BB .28 last winter (bench break-in) @ 50F. Even with a good pre-heat I still had to keep a heat gun on it to keep it up to temp.
If you just can’t wait for warmer weather, be carful and don’t be tempted to lean it out to bring the temps up.
 
If you just can’t wait for warmer weather, be carful and don’t be tempted to lean it out to bring the temps up.
Click to expand...

I do have a heat gun and an infrared thermometer. I'm like most people, I want to do "something" meaningful with my cars other than stare at them LOL!

Well, the worst case scenario is that I have all winter to locktite the screws and learn how to use my radio. :)
 
I would suggest tearing the kit down while you wait and making sure all the grease and oils in the shocks, diffs, transmission, etc are good to go. Also check all teh bearings to make sure they are smooth as silk. Even though it hasnt been used theres no telling how long its been sitting around and in what conditions. This will also help you get a better understanding of how everything works on it as well as how it all comes apart. The manual will have all the exploded views of how everything goes together. if you dont have the manuals they are downloadable from the manufacturers websites.
 
Also when you reassemble the kit make sure to use blue Loc-Tite on any metal-to-metal connections (nuts/bolts).
 
greywolf74 said:
I would suggest tearing the kit down while you wait and making sure all the grease and oils in the shocks, diffs, transmission, etc are good to go. Also check all teh bearings to make sure they are smooth as silk. Even though it hasnt been used theres no telling how long its been sitting around and in what conditions. This will also help you get a better understanding of how everything works on it as well as how it all comes apart. The manual will have all the exploded views of how everything goes together. if you dont have the manuals they are downloadable from the manufacturers websites.
Click to expand...

+1 That's great advice. Definitely go through your used car top to bottom
in the same manner. Inspect for previous crash damage, loose or missing screws
replace the fluids inspect and test your electronics, etc. Get to know your vehicles inside and out.
It makes maintenance and trouble shooting much easier.
 
Nitrotrout said:
+1 That's great advice. Definitely go through your used car top to bottom
in the same manner. Inspect for previous crash damage, loose or missing screws
replace the fluids inspect and test your electronics, etc. Get to know your vehicles inside and out.
It makes maintenance and trouble shooting much easier.
Click to expand...

I agree with you, getting to know your vehicle sure does help alot. I couldnt have said it better myself.

I also just got into this hobby myself and i love it, but it can be frusterating and drive you crazy, just take a few deep breathes and step back from your project. Take some time to cool down.

And dont rush. That leads to alot of problems lost or damages parts and more money out of your pocket. I learned that the hard way.

But have fun, and if your ever stuck juat ask and you will have plenty of support :D
 
Here is what is throwing me off. Years ago I built Tamiya kits and that was actually fun. Now, I have to work backwards and try to be able to keep the parts organized. I am hoping that I can break these buggys down into subgroups (front, rear, middle), does that make sense? I don't want to have spare parts left over when I am done putting it back together! ;)

Here are links to the manuals:

http://www.ofna.com/pdf/34957-ravager.pdf

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC8.2/Factory_Team/rc8.2ft-manual.pdf

When you say check the shock, and differential fluid levels; is that possible without losing all the fluid? Are the differential gaskets reusable, or do they need to be replaced every time I open the differential?

---------- Post added at 4:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:14 PM ----------
Nitrotrout said:
Inspect for previous crash damage, loose or missing screws.
Click to expand...

The OFNA was used, but it is in great condition with a brand new unused engine. According the guy I bought it from, it was driven by a little old lady on Sundays when she went to church. (Just kidding.)
The Associated is brand new, never used. :D

Smittyzz
"I also just got into this hobby myself and i love it, but it can be frustrating and drive you crazy, just take a few deep breathes and step back from your project. Take some time to cool down."

Yeah, I am getting back into RC after a long time. Apparently I am older, but not much wiser!! LOL :hehe:
 
Just cycling the shocks by hand should let you know if they need to be rebuilt. I always replace diff gaskets when I open a diff. I think of it as insurance.
 
What I've learned.

Always assume the diffs are empty.
Squeeze the shocks and if you hear any fluid then theres air in the shocks. Must fill.
If you take the diffs out to cheak then your almost done taking the rig apart so why not keep going and clean/check .
 
If it were me Id empty the shocks and the diffs and refill them since you have no idea how old the fluid is. a bottle of shock oil and diff oil isnt exactly cheap but they arent expensive either and youve got all winter :)

Once youve taken it apart it usually isnt to hard to remember how it goes back together. you may get stuck in a few places but usually studying the exploded views for a bit you can work it out. I would also not suggest a full tear down right from the get go....tear it down enough to get the rear diff out and replace the fluid in the diffs and shocks and then put it back together. Then do the same for the front. Its typically the same or very similiar on both ends. once youve done that you will have a good working working knowledge of both ends and tehn you go go for the full etar down which only leaves the middle. That way when you take the middle apart you wont have to tear the front and rear down completely. If that makes sense.
 
Thanx to everyone for the advice and words of encouragement!
(Let's see if Rolex is paying attention;))



greywolf74 said:
If it were me Id empty the shocks and the diffs and refill them since you have no idea how old the fluid is. a bottle of shock oil and diff oil isnt exactly cheap but they arent expensive either and youve got all winter :) .
Click to expand...

How many shocks/ diff's will a bottle of fluid cover?
 

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