Father-Son 1:1 Mustang GT Project

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Hey Fellas! I know I haven't been around/posting much for a while but I have still been lurking in the background. This car is still taking up all my funding and what time I have to play. We are about to be on the road again so I thought I would update this thread and let you all know where we're at.:)

As of the previous posting you know the car's engine went south,here is what I found while trying to fix it. With no compression on the #2 cylinder,I figured possibly a head gasket,broken spring or burnt valves as the the culprit. As of today I still really don't have a 100% what caused what answer for the problem but here is what I found. First check was the compression. All good except for #2. A compressed air test revealed big leakage past both the intake and exhaust valves so I started taking that side of the engine apart. No broken springs,no bad rocker arms or any other problems were found when the valve cover was removed so I proceeded to pull the head. Other than being black from not firing,the combustion chamber looked good.

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The valve were also black but did not look "burned" or have missing material anywhere as I have seen in other engines. But as you can see in the pic,there is no shiny line indicating it was fully closed/seated.

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Also there was no signs of gasket failure. At this point I am unsure of what really happened,but i figured a fresh set of heads and gaskets and we'd be back up and running. I found a good deal on a late 90's Explorer 5.0 engine which is said to have the best flowing cast iron heads Ford ever made for the small block engine. So I purchased it and started preparing for a head swap. Then I start looking over the rest of the engine in the car and noticed something I didn't like. Before reading anymore.look over the pic below and see if you notice what I saw.

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Now if you are seeing what I did,you see a big gap between the piston and cylinder wall and the top piston rings are visible. The cylinder on the right,you can even see the ring gap! Now I am questioning if I should do more than just a head swap. Seeing that was a surprise because as noted in previous threads,this engine ran great. It was solid sounding with no knocks,rattles or other noises. So while the heads were at the shop I swayed back and forth between should I or should I not completely rebuild the engine?

Knowing we plan to race it more and being that I am very quality conscience and wanting to make sure my son had a solid car to drive,I had to pull the engine for a complete rebuild. Once I started tearing it all apart it didn't take long to see I made the right choice. Look at what I found! This is the #5 piston on the opposite side from where we had the known issue.

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Pretty rough ,huh? Then when I removed the rings it got even worse,this chunk just fell out of the side of the piston! Also to be more confusing,the scarring on the side of the piston was not present in the cylinder.

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Well that's all I got for tonight. Don't worry,we're a lot further down the road than this so you won't be waiting a year for the next update. I'll get some more pics organized and update this thread in another day or two.
 
Did you Mic the cylinders? That's a pretty hairy looking piston!!! If you're racing it anyways, a nice bore and stroke would make it just that much nastier. It wouldn't hurt to bring the compression up a lil to run better on the junk gas they sell now compared to then too. Just my thoughts... Whatever you do, best wishes!
 
I have to agree with the above post. Bore it a little and use slightly larger matching pistons. .030 over wouldn't hurt it and then you'll have a good fresh surface for the rings to seat against. You can also get the rotating assembly balanced as well. Both will help reliability and performance.
 
It sounds like you know your stuff, but if you want to bounce anything off me, feel free to message me. I have a LOT of experience with 1:1. Again, best wishes!
 
As a huge Mustang fan, I very much approve. Fastest crowd-killer in the west lol. I need to buy myself a mustang.
 
If you want to go drag racing with it on a budget, why not just drop an LS in it with a powerglide and call it a day? Its a proven package at the drag strip. And the motors are a dime a dozen.
 
Hahahaha. I’m just saying, it’s the easiest, cheapest, and fastest way to go fast. Those mod motors leave some to be desired. Small intake ports, intake manifold, shrouded valves, small valves, small exhaust ports, small displacement.
On the other hand, I can build a 500-550hp LS easily. Slap a ported TVS1900 and ported snout on it and be nocking on the door of 1K hp for about $7K including the cost of the motor. A 2 speed powerglide is going to be a different story. But a 12 bolt solid axle (full floating axle with 4:10s in it) is about a grand.
The motor you have, is it a psi motor? I know it makes some difference. And there really isn’t any parts that can be pulled from a different to add any performance to your build. Meaning your going to be paying aftermarket prices for all the parts your going to be installing
 
I know about the LS stuff, the glide trans and all that. Don't care, it's not Ford. This isn't a mod motor either, it's an old school push rod 5.0 roller cam motor. I am guessing by "psi motor" you mean am I throwing boost at it. Not yet. This thread is missing a lot of previously added updates. May have been lost during server upgrades or when we switched names or something but they're gone.

So here's a reader's digest update to where I am now on this car. The motor shown was rebuilt mostly stock with a comp cam, larger injectors and throttle body. It was put back in the car and enjoyed for about 2 months. My son was driving it and had to stop for traffic before making a left turn. The car behind him stopped but a third car came along and plowed into them with out even slowing down. The black Mustang shown was totaled. With the insurance we hunted around and found this for a replacement minus the hood, wheels and tires. But it ran good, was complete and everything including the ac worked.

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The black car sat in my back yard for over a year because the silver car ran so well I just want to drive and enjoy it. Even though it would only make 180rwhp on the dyno and only ran 15.80 at the track. Finally made a winter project out of it and switched the rebuilt motor into the silver car with a cam change, converter change, log tube header install and rebuilt the rear with carbon fiber clutches and 4:10 gears. It had a very healthy idle but we never got to run it at the track. We had a couple of overheating issues that we finally traced to a clogged radiator from all the sitting time in the back yard. After fixing that we never noticed any issues on the street, it was a beast. When we took it to the track we made 2 attempts but were not allowed to run. When doing the burnout it would push the anti-freeze out of the motor and as soon as the starting line crew saw it we were sent back to the pits. We never were able to find anything on the car. My best guess is when it overheated it compromised a head gasket just enough that heavy thottle would over pressurize the cooling system forcing out the anti-freeze.

That was near the end of 2019 and I was already working toward a new supercharger ready motor. So I parked it figuring I could have the new engine along with a new built 4R70W trans ready by early 2020. Then of course COVID changed everything. When they started talking lock downs and other crap I stopped spending money on this car. Then I was furloughed for 2 months. I decided during that time that since I had enough parts to just fix the head gasket issue and the new trans was already done then I would just go that route and get this car back on the road. I had the parts so basically I did a heads/cam/intake swap and got it sat back in the car. That's when I was called back to work.

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When I went back to work we immediately got really busy so I had to work a lot of overtime. As a result I didn't have much time nor did I feel like working the car so 2020 ended without the car getting done. This year the weather timing has been bad. The good days were during the week then cold or rainy on the weekends so progress has been slow. I finally got it all together and fired it up for the first time a month ago but it wasn't happy. It had a couple of lifters that wouldn't pump up causing a knock. So I had to tear it back apart and replaced all of them. While the intake was off and the motor is still in the car it gave me a chance to mock up the motor for how it is eventually going be. The camera didn't get a good pic, but here a sneak peek for where I'm going with it, hopefully by the end of this year.

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As it sits now it is all back together without the blower, lol. Hopefully this weekend I can fire it up and start getting it tuned in. Here's a pic of the motor today. But here is what the car looks like from sitting so long :cry:

And now you're all caught up

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Pi is a casting mark on cylinder heads and pistons of the 5.0 mod motor. A pI motor has significantly better had flow and intake manifold than a non pi motor. I hope y’all enjoy the car and the process of the build.
 
Ok, ya I know what PI is on the mod motors. You typed "psi" so I was confused. I don't mess with the mod motors though.
 
Stupid auto correct. I’m sorry for the confusion. I don’t mess to much with carbs. I’m of the computer controlled generation. But I have a ton of respect for people who know the voodoo magic of carbs.

I have built quite a few race motors and high hp motors. In that regard, the LS/LT is the king. Followed closely by the coyote 5.0. The import big dogs are the Toyota 2JZ, the Nissan RB26, and the B and K series Honda’s.
 
To me carbs are easy and the EFI/computer tuning is the voodoo magic. I have to learn it for this car though as I am keeping the EFI/computer control on it. I do have a completely different computer I will be installing though. This 95 was the OBD1 and requires a tune to burnt on a chip then installed in the computer. The replace , although still older, can have a laptop hooked to it and tuned on the fly if needed.
 
To me carbs are easy and the EFI/computer tuning is the voodoo magic. I have to learn it for this car though as I am keeping the EFI/computer control on it. I do have a completely different computer I will be installing though. This 95 was the OBD1 and requires a tune to burnt on a chip then installed in the computer. The replace , although still older, can have a laptop hooked to it and tuned on the fly if needed.
Yes, PROMs. Not fun. The obd2 stuff allows you to data log and get good info like injector duty cycle, timing tables, ambient air temperature, manifold pressure, and O2 The standalone systems have the ability to see exhaust manifold pressure and temperature per primary, O2, exc. it can get pretty impressive what can be controlled through the computer and what sensors/inputs can be used for data.
 
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