Fantom .18 does not line up with Transmission???

[NewBostonRC]

I have a T-maxx that I bought on e-bay and have had a few problems. Just when I get one thing fixed, it is something else..Still having fun..

Problem: The clutch bell does not line up correctly with the transmission. The engine pushes the clutch bell too far. When I adjust the engine mount, it only moves side to side not forward/Backward. Currently only about half the clutch bell fits correctly with the slipper clutch gear. Plus the slipper clutch almost rubs the bell clutch.

Also I stripped both gears because they were metal and they were not alligned correctly. What brand bell clutch will fit the fantom .18?

Please help!!! :stupid:

 

[shadey26 ntc3]

Did you cut the shaft right on your mill?

 

[NewBostonRC]

I don't know. It was that way when I bought it on e-bay. What does it mean to cut it on the "mill"? Thanks for the help.

 

[R/C Madman]

More then likely the guy that had it before you cut the crank shaft to short. If you can find an adajustable motor mount that lets you move the engine up that would do the trick but, I don't know if they have one out there for a .15-.18 size engine? You can get a new crank shaft and cut it to the right length? Not sure what else you can do in this case? As far as not meshing with the spur gear try a CB with 1 or 2 more teeth.

 

[NewBostonRC]

The good news is the shaft on the engine is too long. Maybe he never cut it at all. What is the process of cutting the shaft? Do I need to disable the entire engine to pull the shaft out to cut?? Thanks.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, it doesn't sound to short. Not if the spur is rubbing on the cb housing (the actual bell part). That means it's too far out.

Depending on the crank shaft on the fantom, you may not want to cut it. If it's a pilot shaft, you need to adjust your collet. It's a brass thing that hold the flywheel where it is.

To install a flywheel, you dry fit it. Don't bother with shoes or locktight or even tightening down the flywheel nut all the way (cinched). So far you know you need to move the flywheel closer to the engine. Are there shims behind the flywheel? If so, take everything apart, remove a few shims. It sounds like you need to move it about 2mm, but without pic, I'm obviously just guessing.

Anyway, take out the shims you think will make it work. Put the collet on, put the flywheel on, tighten down the flywheel nut, put the cb on with bearings and see how good it is. If it's good, take the flywheel nut off, put locktight on the threads and assemble the rest how you took it apart.

Just remember that clutch shoes are designed to work in one direction, so pay attention to the orientation of the shoes when you take it apart.

 

[NewBostonRC]

Thanks for the help. I will give it a try and come back with additional questions?

 

[olds97_lss]

If possible, take some photo's of it off the truck before you mess with it so we can see what's going on and help you better. Also, take a shot of it with the cb and shoes off and possibly a pic of it with everything off the crank shaft.

It will help.

 

[FastEddy]

Have you looked at the slipper setup?
If its not assembled correctly it will throw the alignment off.
You say it has a metal spur? is it a stock style or an aftermarket slipper setup. It may be on backward.

Look and as advised above take some photos for us.

 

[NewBostonRC]

Thanks again for the help. The slipper is aftermarket as is the clutch bell. The slipper clutch broke as a result of another problem(lose screws), so I went to the hobby shop and got a new slipper clutch gear and clutch bell. I have the original parts for the slipper clutch so will try installing it this week.

Thanks to all for the advice

 

[R/C Madman]

I must have misunderstod the question as Olds is right it's too long. If I recall the .18 Fantom has a threaded shaft and can be cut without any trouble.

 

[fisherman]

I thought that the fantom.18 was a direct drop in maybe i thought wrong though. Is this an acurate statement or no?

 

[olds97_lss]

I think it depends on which one you buy. Don't hold me to it, but I thought they made one for the old t-maxx and the new 2.5 t-maxx. And a 3rd just for general users that want a 18 in something other than a maxx.

I thought they had a 2.5 maxx drop in as well, which would tell me that it has a pilot shaft like the 2.5 does. This would also tell me that he needs to adjust his shims.

But then again, I could be completely wrong.

 

[fisherman]

i think your right cuz iv looked on stormer and they sell one that says direct drop in for the t-maxx, so I'm sure your right about an old maxx version and a new maxx version.

 

[NewBostonRC]

Well thank you to all that helped. I spent some time on the t-maxx last night and pulled the engine. Because of the aftermarket clutch bell, slipper clutch and gear, that seemed to be causing the majority of the problem. I went back to the original traxxas gears, and clutch and was able to adjust the motor mount enough for a good fit.

One last question: I fit the gears by using a piece of paper between the gears, getting a good fit, tightening the screws and pulling the paper out. Is there something else I should do to be sure that everything is correctly fitted?

 

[jon2]

Check your throttle linkage so that when at full throttle or WOT, the carb opens all the way.

 

[FastEddy]

Use lock-tight on the all the screws going to your motor mount.

 

[G8RMaxx]

Check your mesh at four points on the spur-gear, sometimes it is too tight at one point, as they aren't always concentric.