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fail safes

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gettinintoit

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What up, I need to know what kind of fail safe to get for my sportmaxx. Where to get it. How much to pay for it.
 
it doesn't matter witch one you use, it just depends on preference i personaly use the micro ofna one, its realy nice and i like it. its gunna run you like 24.99-29.99. laterz
 
If you do a search on failsafes you will find more info and peoples prefrences on them.
 
I personally dont use a failsafe because i literally have never lost my radio signal or gotten my sportmaxx rammed into something because of low batteries. but i have heard of the ofna one, and i would reccomend it.

Good choice on the s-maxx and direct out of the box, go for the 2spd


Also, welcome to the forum!!

Also if you want to see a mildly upgraded s-maxx, go into my gallery. RPM AND GPM ALL THE WAY
 
I use a venom failsafe its great. Actually saved me once or twice. they are around 25-30 bux as well.
~Michael
 
I've heard VERY good things about the venom failsafes

but I'm with will i personally dont use a failsafe I've only lost control once and thatwas ecause someone else was o my same cannel andhe came next to me but that didn sway me toget one i prob wont get one either
 
thanks guys...I've had the maxx for about a month and luckily got onto the free 2 speed rebate..yeah I'm gonna go with the ofna one...we will see how it works
 
I run a Venom failsafe and it has saved me a few times. If it saves u once then its well paid for. IMHO

late
 
About not using them because you've never lost signal, well..

You never know when you're going to accidently drop your transmitter, or have the antenna break on the car, or whatever..

$30 is SUCH a good investment. Even if you never make use of it, you'll never ever have to worry about anything cutting your signal and allowing your R/C to go barrel-assing into the road, a tree, or your leg.

Even if the failsafe only ever prevents you from smashing into a pole one time, it's paid for itself.
 
I've tried most of the failsafes out there. Dynamite, OFNA micro, venom, Futaba...

I gotta say that I like the Ofna microi the most because of its size. No joke, this unit is a big as my thumbnail!

About not running a failsafe: I don't understand the people that don't. You go out and purchase a $275.00+ top end motor, the $300.00 radio, the $100.00 custom paint job and not to mention all the time and effort invested in getting you rc just the way YOU want it.

You've just spent all this hard-earned money and won't invest a lousy $30.00 in a failsafe because you never experienced radio interference??? Please explain your way of thinking... it intriques me. :doh:
 
What is the purpose of a failsafe overall. i havent invested in rechargable Btry's yet,but I change my Btry's put as often as I can because of the low response I get. Also does it affect the running of the truck?
 
The "purpose" of a fail-safe should be abundantly clear from this thread alone, but I'll put it in a nice tidy sentence "Stop your R/C if there's a problem."

Different fail-safe units offer different levels of protection, but in the end what they all do is attempt to move a servo into a "safe" position if it detects a problem. Problems can be: Dangerously low battery, no signal from remote control, crystal problems.

Basically, if you go out of range, drop your tranasmitter, or whatever, your fail-safe unit will attempt to move your throttle servo into a "brakes" position. Hopefully this will prevent your rig from smashing into a pole, or flying into a road, or a person, or another R/C.

It's a hell of an investment ($30) for something that could potentially save you many hundreds of dollars in repairs or in the worst case, medical bills.
 
The cheapest failsafe is a mechanical failsafe like a throttle return spring. No batteries required. They are the only failsafe I use on my RCs is the throttle return spring, and after several years I have not had a problem. On two occasions the TRS was needed and performed admirably.
 
Does a throttle return spring put more work on your servo and/or batteries? If it's strong enough to pull the throttle back while it's attached to the servo it must be pretty strong?

Someone said recently that those are only good for if the linkage comes loose from the servo itself, any truth to this?

It sounds like a good idea though, a fairly weak spring that would be enough to pull back the throttle in case the linkage became disconnected. That, with an electronic fail-safe, and you're in good shape!
 
If you hook the spring up the right way (to the throttle arm of the carb), they work fine regardless of the linkage.

As for servo strength, I have one mounted on my T-Maxx which uses the stock steering servo as a throttle servo. Everyone can tell you that that particular servo is not the strongest in the world. I will tell you that it has no problems with the springs and the TRS works just fine.
 

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