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extended chassis?
- Thread starter 78welder
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More room. There isn't enough room between the trans and rear bulks/towers to even come close to fitting a real BB in there.
Personally, I think you should avoid putting a BB in a max. The drive train can handle a decent 18, but not much more without serious dough. If you want BB power, get a truck that starts with a BB. Well, unless you like endless frustration and have a deep pocket. (does my bitterness about a 21 maxx come accross?
)
Personally, I think you should avoid putting a BB in a max. The drive train can handle a decent 18, but not much more without serious dough. If you want BB power, get a truck that starts with a BB. Well, unless you like endless frustration and have a deep pocket. (does my bitterness about a 21 maxx come accross?
)
ZANDOR
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olds97_lss said:More room. There isn't enough room between the trans and rear bulks/towers to even come close to fitting a real BB in there.
Personally, I think you should avoid putting a BB in a max. The drive train can handle a decent 18, but not much more without serious dough. If you want BB power, get a truck that starts with a BB. Well, unless you like endless frustration and have a deep pocket. (does my bitterness about a 21 maxx come accross?
Ill second Olds...Not enough room and to much upgrading to do..Even if you have deep pockets..
You will still break it..Then your not replacing a cheap stock part..It a high dollar part.
Olds is right....it takes ALOT of time and money to build a BB maxx....I did the mutant maxx conversion...what a nightmare but I made it work and be pretty indestructable....
to utilize 1/8 scale diffs I had to customize a Kyosho spur gear to hold a 62t Ofna ring gear from a dominator by grinding off the teeth adn using teh extra holes to bolt the ring gear to, there's other ways to change the ratio now to where I wouln't have had to do all this, but I've had this thing for about 3 years now...it was the reason I joined RCNT so I had a good knowledge base of peeople to help me...to fit this into the chassis I had to make (from RCsolutions beefy aluminum stock) the upper deck and the center diff brace......
this project took about a year and more cash than ANY T-maxx is worth...I still love my truck and it drives really well aand takes some serious abuse, but you can buy almost 2 prospec truggies for what you can drop into something like this thing.......the only real redeeming value is the ease of finding parts for the maxx and now hop ups are pretty cheap........
to utilize 1/8 scale diffs I had to customize a Kyosho spur gear to hold a 62t Ofna ring gear from a dominator by grinding off the teeth adn using teh extra holes to bolt the ring gear to, there's other ways to change the ratio now to where I wouln't have had to do all this, but I've had this thing for about 3 years now...it was the reason I joined RCNT so I had a good knowledge base of peeople to help me...to fit this into the chassis I had to make (from RCsolutions beefy aluminum stock) the upper deck and the center diff brace......
this project took about a year and more cash than ANY T-maxx is worth...I still love my truck and it drives really well aand takes some serious abuse, but you can buy almost 2 prospec truggies for what you can drop into something like this thing.......the only real redeeming value is the ease of finding parts for the maxx and now hop ups are pretty cheap........
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OK, just so I am clear. To install a BB (say, Hyper .21) I have to buy an extended chassis? Say it ain't so!
you can get the P3...it's a picco .26 that is made to drop in....seriously though the RB .23 is the way I'd go....alot easier to tune and it will last longer.....for about 200 you get a pipe/mill/engine mount.....I like the short wheelbase...makes it real squirrely but once you get the hang of it they are too much fun........and they look cool with jeep bodies or 200mm car bodies.....
I'd get the RB .23 instead of the picco...and yes you WILL definately have to upgrade the drivetrain....the maxx has small 1/10 scale diffs....read MW's project maxx thread there's some suggestions on where to get the 1/8 scale diff setups.....but you will be spending an outrageaous ammount of cash...if you really want more performance and durability get into truggies...save up and get a nice race setup......seriously, unless you like the Monster Truck thing then it's just not worth it IMO.....the maxx is a novelty now and to make one really durable you will be spending alot of coin or a lot of time hunting down deals...MW is doing his as a winter project...if you have the time to hunt flea-bay and trade stuff it's just going to hit your wallet in the 1500 dollar range......seriously.....
So Plaid, regardless of what BB engine I wish to install (and advice on mills always appreciated) do I have to use an extended chassis? I'm planning on upgrading the drivetrain componets, but as I have only a stock chassis to work with, rather than spend the money on the extended chassis and associated parts, I'd just as soon put a OS .18 TM in there (or like engine).
well the ones I listed are reffered to as "mid blocks" by a lot of people here...they have more CC than a standard .21 but the cases they sit in are made specifically for the T-maxx or Revo mounting.....and yes if you want to drop a regular .21 sized block in you have to get a BB conversion (extended Chassis)....I think I saw on here a thread where a guy shoved a BB onto a stock sized chassis.....just made some mounting blocks/tapped em and drilled holes in the chassis for em......real tight fit and I think he had to chop some of his A-arm up to do it....4 shocks only too.....I found on mine the 4 shock setup let the RPM A-Arm twist enough to let my CVD pop out too much......I added another set of Kyosho shocks and dropped the oil weight to 25/20...it crawls like a revo around rough rutted stuff now.....
Ah, got it! Thanks for the advice, bruddha! I'll look into those mid blocks!
I'd still stick with a 18, even a cv-r, but then you have to have a side header, exhaust which brings the cost not to far from the 18tm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/traxxas-t-maxx-...ryZ44029QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I know it's an e-bay mill but I'm sure you can get awsome deals on them now....my lhs was going to sell me one (for the maxx) for 180.....that includes alot of stuff though...mount/pipe/header.....alot of people gave the mill a bad rep from dropping them into stock revos and shredding the drivetrain (well duh double the HP and not upgrade the drivetrain and that happens)....and the fact he revos are so light it made the truck hard to handle if you just laid into the trigger all the time......so now there aren't many people that will use em....but in a well built maxx it's a VERY sweet lil mill....high RPMs and good HP.....the OS .18 CV-r is nice for the price but like olds said you need to get a side header if you don't have one.....and if you have to get all that stuff already, I like the package deal the RB has......but the OS stuff is sweet and the mill is around 100 bucks new.....soooo many decisions you didn't think about in your maxx build huh? LOL....
I know it's an e-bay mill but I'm sure you can get awsome deals on them now....my lhs was going to sell me one (for the maxx) for 180.....that includes alot of stuff though...mount/pipe/header.....alot of people gave the mill a bad rep from dropping them into stock revos and shredding the drivetrain (well duh double the HP and not upgrade the drivetrain and that happens)....and the fact he revos are so light it made the truck hard to handle if you just laid into the trigger all the time......so now there aren't many people that will use em....but in a well built maxx it's a VERY sweet lil mill....high RPMs and good HP.....the OS .18 CV-r is nice for the price but like olds said you need to get a side header if you don't have one.....and if you have to get all that stuff already, I like the package deal the RB has......but the OS stuff is sweet and the mill is around 100 bucks new.....soooo many decisions you didn't think about in your maxx build huh? LOL....
Well, I've got both a CV-R and a TM laying around, BUT, the CV-R had it's crank cut to fit into a RC10GT, so that's probably not an option. the TM is NIB, but I'm kind of sitting on that one as a back-up for the Revo. We shall see!
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The cut crank IS what you want for the Maxx. I would just put the OS 18 cvrx in it rather than go through the enormouse amount of cash needed to make it a .21 conversion maxx.
the cv-r w/ the rotary carb is sweet cause you can do away with the turnbuckle needed in the throttle linkage.....for a basher truck the less linkage parts you have the easier it is to maintain.....
I have two tmaxx's that I added the longer chassis to. Its really not that expensive to do. I picked up one chassis from racers edge for 15 bucks and its takes maybe 30 to 40 minutes to swap the parts over. I had been running an ofna .26 big block in one, but I now run the o.s. .18 cvrx's in both. the problem i did have with one because I put in cvd's is I keeped breaking the four screws that hold the ring gear to the diff cup. So I bought some aluminum diff cups with the 3 mm screws instead of the stock 2mm and that cost me 25 bucks per diff cup. The other maxx that had the big block in it still has the stock drive shafts. That drivetrain remains stock with no problems. Just remember to set your slipper clutch properly or you will have serious driveline issues. But the cost for coverting other than the motor of your choice is under 100 bucks. And I find that some really nice bigblock engines cost less than say the o.s. .18 tm's.