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exhaust

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Your link is bad for some reason. It looks like the HPI one I linked to and it should work. I've seen photo's of revo's with it. You just have to bend it out a little bit.
 
olds97_lss said:
What are you talking about?

Is your coupler coming off the header or off the exhaust pipe itself?

The piece that bolts to the engine is the header. The blue thing that the exhaust comes out of that's bolted to the rear shock tower is the pipe.

I've had the problem keeping the header from breaking where it bolts to the engine. I fixed my problem by buying an OS 18TM that comes with a much nicer header piece. It's not bolted to the engine, but rather uses a exhaust gasket and spring so it can absorb shock better from harsh landings. I broke 3 or 4 stock headers at $25 a piece. That's half the cost of my 18TM! Just for a stupid pipe problem.

The trinity pipe comes with it's own header and it's own exhaust pipe. The header is attached to the exhaust pipe with springs and attached to the engine with springs. All of which absorb impacts and shock better.

The vantage pipe and resonator pipe expect you to use the crappy stock header.

I'd suggest buying this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000426515&I=LXFBA0&P=K
You have to bend it a bit to get the pipe to line up, but it mounts to the engine with a gasket and spring. This is less problematic. Plus, it's half the cost of the stock header.
Click to expand...



Will that exhaust for the os18tm fit on a revo 3.3
 
Thank you :).

Also, does the exhaust pipe you have have a big effect on performance, or would this depend if I was talking about low/high end?
 
I run the stock exhaust "pipe" and the OS header with my OS18Tm engine in my revo.

I was running a fantom works steel pipe, but I was getting high temps with it. I got quite a bit more power over the stock exhaust pipe, but I didn't care for the 275 temp range I was averaging in.

With the OS header and the Stock pipe, I get lower power pretty much throughout the entire RPM range. But the temps stay around 220-250 even if I'm hard on it.

I drilled out the stinger on the stock pipe so the wall of the stinger is only about 1mm thick. This helped a little with exhaust flow.

The Fantom pipe was ridiculously loud. I've never heard the trinity pipe, but I'd have to guess that the Fantom would rival it as far as decibles go. Power output was greatly improved though... I just wish the temps would stay below 250 consistently with that pipe.

As far as the stock header vs the OS header for performance, I can't say. I've never tried the OS header on the 2.5R engine. Only the 18TM. And, the stock header won't work on the 18TM, so I didn't even bother.
 
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAJ6&P=

The link above is MUCH better deal.....cheaper and you dont have buy ear muffs to drive your rig....

I have an RD logics twin pipe I quit runnning because I could not hear myself think while the engine was running. (BTW I would sell it to ya cheap say $50 and I pay to ship it.) ;)

Anyway I am running the Trinity in the link above....sweet pipe....noisy to bt really added some punch to the bottom end.

My 2 cents..

TalonOne Out
 
With your RD logics one, did you have any performance increase/decrease? Or did it stay about the same?
 
Those dual exhaust pipes rob performance due to the design of a tuned pipe. The exhaust pulses don't bounce back right and you get poor fuel savaging. Your better off sticking with a more traditional pipe like the trinity.
 
erix920 said:
With your RD logics one, did you have any performance increase/decrease? Or did it stay about the same?
Click to expand...

Olds is right above it ROBBED performance....I had no idea....but now that I understand it a bit better.....I will not use one again......except for a show truck perhaps......neat looking but not built for performance. And painfully loud!!!


TalonOne ...Out
 
I went ahead and got the trinity. It sounds like its not to loud if
you dont drill out the stinger. Ill let you know how it is when it
gets here.
RR21
 
.21Rc10GT said:
You dont have to drill out the stinger. You can unscrew the insert... :hehe:
Click to expand...

:ponder2: ohhhhhhhhh... Thats what thats for. I couldnt figure out what the heck that was for. First time buyin a aftermarket pipe.
Thanks
 
finally got my pipe today, then i went to start it and the ez start said the glow plug was dead, so i put a new one in, and it said it was bad. so i took it out and pressed the button and it didnt glow. So i think its the wire. its pretty chewed up too. So ill post back when i get a new wire.
RR21
 
I wouldn't bother with a new wire. Get an external heater. They are more reliable, they heat the plug before fuel gets to it which makes for easier starting and it makes your ez-start battery last longer.
 
olds97_lss said:
I wouldn't bother with a new wire. Get an external heater. They are more reliable, they heat the plug before fuel gets to it which makes for easier starting and it makes your ez-start battery last longer.
Click to expand...


Bingo, bingo and bingo! Cut that wire and be done with it! Nothing but a pain.
 

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