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Engine wierd!

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F

flandersander

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OK. Well the engine runs like a top when it is cold. But when it gets up to about 160 dagrees it stalls and won't start. What is going on? its a trx 2.5 and it seems like it has little compression when it is warm. Whats up?
 
instant performance from a cold engine usually means it's too lean. Start by richening the LSN no more than 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise. Same for the HSN. Run it slowly till it starts coming up to temp, then let us know how it's doing. If it behaves better, richen the HSN a little more till it does well at WOT.
 
Ok well I can't get it started now. My ez start battery is toast and I can't get into the city until monday. Is there any way to start it? I don't have a pull start or gp igniter but If sombody could overnight me one That would be great. Charliestheman will tell u I will pay u and even tell you when the paper comes in. insider joke.
 
2 important things:

You should always have a back up battery.
Lose the blue wire and get an igniter. You only kill the starter quicker by having it heat the glow plug AND spin the starter.
When the battery gets even a little run down, the glow plug isn't hot enough to get it started unless you have a perfect tune, and even that's a toss up.
 
Yup, that'll do it. Then you use an igniter with a good sub-C batt in it. That way the starter's ONLY battery drain is spinning the engine, NOT running down heating the coil at the same time.
 
I had the same problem with my 2.5 so I took it to the lhs and they tor it apart and showed me that I need a new piston and sleeve, but it is cheaper to buy a whole new motor.
 
I disagree. a piston and sleeve is 40 bucks. a new trx 2.5 is more is it not? maybe if you buy them in parts form. also considering the charges to get the guys at ur lhs to tear down the engine... maybe it would be.
 
You could also get the sleeve "pinched" for about $20. Like new compression, and it will need another break in...That's IF that's your problem. It still might just be carb tuning.
 
Well I don't know. Can you just buy sleeve pinchers? And maybe some instructions... Or do lhs do it?
 
You can buy them, but expect to ruin a few sleeves before you get it right. I don't have the link available in this comp, but someone will steer you to it.
I think it might have been Lessen or Savagefan04 who recently had a few done.
 
So what do you reccomend? getting a new engine or getting a new sleeve or pinching it?
 
I was thinking of doing it myself. I got this from http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=253697.

OK this is a project I decided to try out after seeing an auction on ebay for a sleeve resize. The auction said that the sleeve was the one that wore out instead of the piston, and the only thing that the engine needed to work again was a sleeve resize.
I kept thinking about this a decided to resize my worn out sleeve, it worked excellent for me so I decided to sell the idea. I suggest you try it with one that you are not using just in case it doesn't come out right for you the first time. ((This will only work with normal wear out piston and sleeve, not scratched)))
Here is what you'll need:
*Hose clamp -- from your local auto parts dealer about. 50¢
*The corresponding tool to tight the clamp. and
*The sleeve to be resized (DUH!!)


Put the clamp around the sleeve (The sleeve I'm using is from my Pro.15 engine) and tighten it up. Do not tighten it too much. Tighten it until its hard to move the piston inside the sleeve.


***In this step use caution***
Put the sleeve on the stove so it gets really hot. The stove I used was a glass top stove so I just put the sleeve on top of the naked glass. If you have a glass top or a normal ELECTRIC stove just put the sleeve right on top, but if you use a GAS stove I would suggest putting the sleeve inside a pan or some kind of recipient so the sleeve is not exposed directly to the fire. I left it there for about 2 minutes.
********CAUTION***********
Grab the sleeve with a pair of pliers (be gentle with it when using pliers, since its really hot, you could easily bend the sleeve out of shape) or some oven gloves, and QUICKLY drop it inside a container with water. This will cause the sleeve to stay the way you tighten it up when you take away the clamp.
Now, if you can't get the piston to go inside the sleeve after the process, then take the sleeve, this time without the clamp, put it upside down on top of the stove and heat it again. After a moment take the pliers and grab the piston by the connecting rod and force it into the sleeve. This will open up the sleeve and allow the piton to enter tightly. DO NOT leave the piston inside the sleeve when you drop it inside the water again. Take the piston out by just grabbing the sleeve with the pliers and pulling the piston by the connecting rod. The rod will get really hot too so use another pair of pliers or just a rolled up piece of paper towel. Dry everything well and rinse it with denatured alcohol.
After this just put some after run oil on the piston and sleeve. Put the engine back together putting after run oil on everything. You will have to break-it-in again. I hope this saves you some money on a new engine or piston and sleeve replacement.
I did this and it worked for me, I'm sure it will work for you too, but I'm not responsible for any damage you cause to your self, to others, or to your property while doing this.

If you can, send pictures of your process, and tell me how it came out. That's all.
If you have any question just send me an email, I check very often so I assure a quick response.

Thanks
 
No it doesn't. There is absolutely NO way an automotive hose clamp could...1.. put enough pressure on the sleeve, and...2.. compress it perfectly round. You will ruin EVERY sleeve you ever try it on.
It's not on Ebay any more. I wonder why.
 

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