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Engine swap

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1BIGSOB

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I bought this used savage 25 and i've had problems from it since i got it. I honestly think that whoever had it before me screwed it up. I'm considering on putting a new 4.6 engine on it and starting from scratch. Is there anyone out there with any information on the 4.6.
 
Depends on which 4.6. The K4.6 or the F4.6 I personally would go with the F4.6 it runs cooler and it's easier to tune. If you really want to wake it up get an LRP Z.28. or .30.
 
I'm new to this so i'm up for any input, the only one i've looked at so far is the Axial and the BIG Red.
 
Do not get a new 4.6 HPI engine

WAIST OF MONET ALERT

Over priced POS. Good for a RTR engine for sure, but at the price they go for, your SOOOOOOOOOooooooooo much better off getting a Picco or LRP 1000000%. LRP ZR30 for less than 200$ will be so satisfying I can even explain it....
 
I would steer my enemies towards axial.

I really like my LRP 28's.
$168: http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_LRP_Z_Spec_W_Pull_p/asclrp32802.htm

LRP30, $189: http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_ZR_30_Spec_2_Pull_Start_p/asclrp32810.htm

Thirsty engines, but they put down some solid power.

The picco 28 is a screamer as well, $199: http://www.rcplanet.com/Ofna_28_Picco_Pull_Start_Nitro_Engine_p/ofn51232.htm

Out of the two your looking at, I'd go with the big red. Dynamite makes decent engines. Not the best or the strongest, but for the money, they are pretty solid. Can put up with a lot of abuse.
Big red, $149: http://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_Big_Red_Monster_p/dyn0992.htm

Personally, I'd spend the extra $20 for the LRP28.
 
The LRP30 looks like a pretty good motor how hard is it to swap it over.
 
The LRP30 looks like a pretty good motor how hard is it to swap it over.

Drop in fit.

I run the LRP ZR30 X Competition in my Savage X with a ERCM Belly Bleed Tuned Pipe & 086 Header sitting in a Extended LCG Chassis from FLM. Its a Grrrrreat Combo for a Savage.

Although the X Competition Edition takes a conversion to fit in the Savage Series Trucks.
 
Last edited:
No harder than installing the HPI engine. :)

If your installing a new engine, I'd suggest you replace the shoes/clutch and get a shim kit as well. Makes life easier.

Shim kit: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000426515&I=LXNT03&P=K
3 shoes: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFXU7&P=ML
Or depending on your flywheel (old ones were 2 shoe):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWY3&P=ML

You may want to look into alloy shoes with the 30. I know the ones in my savage do ok with the LRP28 and I have the carbon/teflon ones above.
 
No harder than installing the HPI engine. :)

If your installing a new engine, I'd suggest you replace the shoes/clutch and get a shim kit as well. Makes life easier.

Shim kit: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000426515&I=LXNT03&P=K
3 shoes: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFXU7&P=ML
Or depending on your flywheel (old ones were 2 shoe):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWY3&P=ML

You may want to look into alloy shoes with the 30. I know the ones in my savage do ok with the LRP28 and I have the carbon/teflon ones above.

I agree, new clutch shoes & springs are good idea, I suggest Dynamite Max Life Shoes & 1mm Gold Springs.

I don't use spacers between the cb bearing and retainer screw, I use a piece of fuel line, it works great. Just one washer between the bearing and the fuel tube, and your good.

like so

14e80219.webp
 
Surprised the fuel line holds up. I use traxxas teflon shims usually to eat up the gap, thenh a metal shim against the bearing and against the screw head.

It was a tip direct from ERCM, holds up like a charm, for stock and modified engines. good lil trick.
 
i'd go with the OS 30 if you don't want a hassle. the os 30 mounts on the same engine mount and doesn't require any conversion. buying the 4.6 will drop the engine about a quarter inch or so i believe, meaning you will need new gears and engine mount as well...
 
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