Engine overheating....

[flyp]

some history - I have the gs-15r kyosho. It came with no LSN and crappy air filter. I ran it in a basball diamond with very fine dirt and the dirt worked into the carb and little bit of the engine. Knowing this was bad, I tore the engine down, cleaned it, and rebuilt it. It ran fine for awhile, but the idle needed to be adjusted so high the clutch was engaging too early and stalled when braking and became increasingly harder to start.

I replaced the stock clutch spring with harder spings, and replaced the carb with one with a LSN. And rebuilt the engine again. It started fine at first with idle problem/clutch solved. But became hard to start again.

A local at the track helped me start it with his starter box and adjust the mix but said my compression seemed low. It starts fine after that. but now I have a new problem. It stops running after about three minutes. It seems to be overheating, but even when I rich out the HSN, it still stops. I riched out the LSN too, it bogged down alot but eventually stopped too. So its obvoius I am overheating from something other than running too lean.

I am very frustrated at this point, after numerous crashes and rebuilds, i have got a good handling car, and when the engine seems tuned, it cuts out just when I get going. I've checked the piston and sleeve and it seems fine, but I'm new to nitro so maybe I am wrong. I'd like to avoid buying a new engine as I'm on a budget.

Can anyone help diagnose the problem or have similar problems with gs-15r? Or is my engine doomed from the dirt influx.

side note: seems like alot of oil/fuel leaks out the bottom throught the pullstart?

 

[RobH]

well a couple things come to mind.

first, you shouldn't have anything leaking out of the engine. You say is leaks through the pullstart. That sounds like you have a leak in your backplate. That in itself will cause problems. I would take the engine apart (again) and then put it back together. I personally like to use loctite (a thread locking compound). If you don't use some sort of thread locking product on the screw threads, it's very possible that the screws will vibrate loose. As a rule of thumb, I loctite every place a screw is threaded into metal. Not everyone is with me on that one, but that's my personal phylosophy.

If you still are having problems with it shutting off after getting warm, I'd have to say that you're worn out the engine. It's possible that the dirt that got into the engine made it's way between the piston and sleeve causing the connection to no longer be air tight. The engine will run at low temps but after it heats up, the sleeve expands and air start to leak around the piston. Most of the time, this results in poor performance, but in some cases, the engine may just quit and die when it gets warm.

I would take it apart and put it back together with loctite on the screws. If the problem goes away, great. If not, it's time to do a TRUE "rebuild". This means changing the piston, sleeve, conrod and wrist pin. I think when you said "rebuild", you ment taking it apart and putting it back together.

Hang in there and good luck,
-Rob

 

[flyp]

thanks for the tips rob.

they just discontinued the engine and after some research it sounds kinda like a lemon. l think I'll just buy a new one.

Any suggestions for .15-.18? I'd like to run it in cold weather and want durability over h.p.

 

[Diver6127]

Originally posted by flyp
thanks for the tips rob.

they just discontinued the engine and after some research it sounds kinda like a lemon. l think I'll just buy a new one.

Any suggestions for .15-.18? I'd like to run it in cold weather and want durability over h.p.

For durability, any engine will fail sooner than later if poorly tuned and run hot all the time. All that said and done, for tuneability good hp and overall good reputation, general concensus says OS.

I have only owned 2 OS mills ... 12 & 15 CVR. Nothing but good things to say. Check them out at towerhobbies.com