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Duratrax RTX-27, $199!!!!

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Thanks for the info destevez78.Not trying to bash you or anything but I do understand that I need to adjust needle settings when changing fuel nitro %.

hollywoodbad, sorry if i came across thinking that folks don't know what they are doing, that definitely was not my intention. i was just trying to be thorough in my description.



all in all, i must say, that i wonder if folks have as many problems with other engines in the RTX27, like the OS 30VG, as we do with the stock Super Tigre.?? i am giving the Super Tigre the rest of my Traxxas fuel, and then trying a gallon of Byron fuel. if the Traxxas fuel runs great and i cannot get the Byron fuel to run well, i will post my findings. then i will go back to Traxxas fuel. i figure that if by the 5th gallon (1st was Red Alert for break-in, 2nd was O'Donnell, 3rd Traxxas, 4th Byron (yet to be tried), & 5th possibly Traxxas again) the engine is still all over the place with tuning, i am going to buy an O.S. Max 30VG (P) ES Electric Start due to its durability and serviceability. i "hear" folks say that this engine is great all around (torque and top speed), and at a good price. tower hobbies says you will need to buy the Ofna clutch nut kit for the RTX in order to make it work, as the Super Tigre uses a fly wheel extension shaft that comes off of the pilot/crank shaft. the O.S. Max 30VG (P) ES Electric Start has the entire shaft built in, so the clutch nut is different. also, tower said that the roto start from the RTX27 is a direct replacement of the Savage roto start that comes out the back of the engine. all they claim that you need to do is remove the 3 screws for the Savage roto start, and screw in the RTX27 roto start. sounds pretty easy, we will have to see if and when the time comes....

Dook, Get a McCoy mc8 plug for the RTX.

samrsnow, seeing as how i am new to nitro, i will have to check out McCoy glow plugs. do you think they are even better than O'Donnell & OS plugs? can you suggest anyplace where i might be able to read up on more reviews and information?
 
destevez78 ,,It's all good:D.Just letting you know I half ass know what i'm doing,:hehe:..The tuning of the Tigre is kinda difficult.I know 2 others that are having trouble with tuning theirs.I got mine just about right. I seen my buddies today and he has just about got his tuned right.He put a pull start on his and it starts up great.He didn't run it but just a sec, cause he was out of fuel. I am thinking of going with a Axial .28..My LHS sells them for $125 out the door.I heard that this engine was pretty good. If I have the money I will go with an O.S. 30VG but I doubt I will.The OS engine seems to be the best one to get.I guess everyones got an opinion though..
 
info on glow plugs - raze st anyone?

OK, so I heard a lot of people talking about Cold Plugs, Medium Plugs, and Hot Plugs for the Super Tigre. I can definitely understand the deal between the different brands of plugs with respect to the quality & durability of the plug. However, I didn't understand the purpose of the different plugs with respect to temperature. I am of the opinion that if the recommended plug for the Super Tigre engine is Medium with 20% nitro (as recommended by the mfg.), then that's probably the way to go unless you want to endeavor on a path of discovery through trial and error (totally acceptable, but a little scary). So, I am sharing a link that I thought was helpful, with the thought that someone else might find it useful.

HTML:
http://www.maxxtraxxusa.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=3607

Seems to be that plug temperature is specific to the engine and nitro content. Therefore, IMO, the RTX27 with the stock Super Tigre, should be using a Medium Plug with 20% nitro. I will say this, I WAS using Duratrax Medium Temp. Glow Plugs (Carbon Speed), and switched to an O'Donnell #100 Medium Temp. Glow Plug at the same time that I switched from O'Donnell fuel to Traxxas Fuel. So, if plug quality is that critical in varying engine temps, I might even say that a better quality plug for a given type of fuel makes a big deal too. All I know is my truck runs 240 - 260 with Traxxas fuel and the O'Donnell #100 Medium Plug. I might even order some McCoy's and see how they affect the temps.

Also, several of you talked about the Duratrax Raze. Is it the Raze ST or the Raze Buggy? I am interested in your thoughts on the Raze ST? Tower has them for $199 right now, plus $15 merchandise rebate. I called them and asked them if they were going to discontinue it as well because that was how the RTX27 went, progressively lowering the price until stockout, then BAMM, discontinue the model. The answer was "NO" that they did not have any information about the Raze ST being discontinued, at least not at that time :\

Check that, I went to Tower's site and opened up all the frequencies offered for the RAZE ST. All of them except the Desert Body are listed as DISCONTINUED. The Desert Body is the only one left in stock!!!:\ What's going on with Duratrax?
 
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Plugs are a little confusing. I read different things about them. Someone said that the difference in the temp of plugs is like for the timing..I don't think so.Just My Opinion..Most of what I read is A Smaller motor will use a hotter plug because it can disperse heat quicker than a bigger engine.Also the % of Nitro plays a part in this as well.The lower % of nitro the hotter the plug needs to be.I am no expert but here is my 2 cents.If you have an engine that is well tuned and still overheats,then use a cooler plug to see if you can get the temps down.Also pay attention to the length of the plug.You are supposed to use a med cold or med hot plug with a big block running 20% or better nitro.I like using the med cold plug because it keeps the engine cooler and doesn't mind the high RPM's and on and off throttle.So if you like running wide open most of the time then you would want a colder plug because it can withstand the constant high RPM's. This is what I have been told and have read..Every engine is different and use what works best for you and your needs as an R/C Driver..If you call Duratrax and speak with 2 or 3 different techs and ask them the same question you will get 2 or 3 different answers.I know this for a fact because I have called them about oil % in the fuel.Byron has only 12% and 1 tech says to add more oil and another says that it is fine.Duratrax tries to sell cheap stuff for a high price and usually it backfires and then they discontinue the item.I also own a Maximum MT and had a few problems with it.I got all the bugs worked out and it still runs great.But it is now discontinued.I can still get a few parts for it.Tamiya does the same thing.I bought a Toyota Mountaineer a long time ago and they discontinued it and now I can't get parts for it.So I am going to sell it.

Well I guess I leaped before I looked..Your link said the same things.
 
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engine temp & fuel level???

hollywoodbad, thanks for the information. you have prompted some thoughts, and i am going to try a colder plug.

ok, so i am not getting decent temps, between 240 degrees and 260 degrees F, but as the fuel level drops in the tank, the temperature rises. anyone know why or how to fix this? is this why many manufacturers have a bunch of of tubing coiled up near the tank?
 
Never knew temp rose when tank went low but I know when my dirt bike was about to run out of gas it would rev higher because of the lack of oil.Doubt that it has the same reason.maybe it is getting hotter because it is starting to hit the performance mark.Remember I asked you when yours started to warm up and reach its performance level.You said about a half of a tank.Therefore an almost empty tank should be at peak temp and performance..I don't think they warm up quick enough.I also think that the motor is pretty good but the carb is very crappy.Just my thoughts:)
 
Great Day!!!

Ok, so I was ready to try a colder glow plug Sunday (currently running Medium Plug), but when I went to my LHS, they were closed but the track was open. I had planned on running the RTX, so I unloaded, and fired it up. I started out Rich and then leaned it out a bit. A few laps around the track and it was running Hot, around 275 degrees F. It was also shifting too soon. So I pulled it off the track, richened the mixture about 1/12 of a turn, and adjusted the shift point 1/8 of a turn for a later shift. For the next 2 hours I ran non-stop with temperatures between 225 & 245, nothing over 255 degrees F. I just don't know about this engine, but it everything worked on Sunday, for a change.

hollywoodbad, I have come to the realization that it takes almost 3/4 of a tank for the engine to truly warm up. Guys on the track said that it is normal for the mixture to lean out when the fuel in the tank gets low, about 1/4 tank or so left. :\ they said a heat gun would help my cold engine get up to temp faster without wasting so much fuel. not sure i want to carry around an electric heat gun, but it's the thought that counts.

BTW, somebody showed up with an HPI Savage XL with a big block 5.9 engine. HOLY SMOKES!!! That things was an untameable beast on the track, and screamed past me on our lone, long straight away. Of course with all that power comes a little more reckless driving, but still, I was impressed.:whhooo:
 
destevez78, I was told the same thing about the heat gun and I am not going to carry one around.I am just a backyard basher.If you are into serious racing then you have to tune your engine every day.That is what I heard and read.Since I do not race I just find a happy medium.I really don't worry too much about the temps anymore.As long as I have good smoke rolling out and it doesn't get too hot then it will be OK.The richer you have the needle the longer it will take to warm up.So I just lean the crap out of it for a couple of hard runs and then richen it back up.Mine stays around 305 F.It idles and runs great.My A5 med cold plug finally died on me today.I have ran over a gallon with this plug.I think I am going to try a Cold plug and see what that does.I am using a med hot or just a hot plug.Really don't know,there are no markings.So that is why my temps are in the 300's and I still have not cut holes in the windows:D..I messed around with some smaller wheels and tires today (1/8th scale buggy)and this thing is quicker.It looks stupid with them on but I wanted to try them out anyways.It's also is easier to steer.They have better traction too. There is a noticeable difference in the acceleration with the smaller wheels and tires.They would be good for a small twisty track.
I was offered a Savage for $200 with everything plus a 3 speed tranny,but I can not afford it.I think it has the 4.6 in it though.I think our trucks could handle a 3 speed tranny.:D
 
holywoodbad, i am 99% a backyard basher too. i go to the track so that i don't have to make jumps and a tight course. plus, i like to chase others around the track, and poorly at that LOL.:hehe: i wish you luck with your tuning woes. i have decided to save up for the OS 30VG. it may take a month or so, but there are some on ebay selling them new for cheap. i am running the stock rtx27 tires, which really hook up well on the track and most terrain. i don't know why folks opt for softer tires that wear after 1 day of driving. i run the same RTX tires on my Emaxx, and they are great all around. they look a little funny next to a monster truck running monster tires, but around the track, those guys couldn't hang. that savage could out run me on the straights, but he was too fast and reckless in the tighter sections. all in all, the RTX with the stock tires was able to stay ahead. also, someone talked about jumping with this truck, and all i can say is that this truck is one of the truest jumpers out there. she floats pretty level, and lands great.
 
destevez78, I know what u mean.You guys are lucky you can go to the track.We have one here but I have back troubles which prevent me from walking too far and standing for a period of time,so I just sit on my porch or chair while playing around in my yard.I didn't get what you tried to send me either.If you have no plans for the engine you are running now and are going to buy a new one,then just lean that sucker up and put in a cold plug and let er rip tater chip.:hehe:.When in doubt dog it out:D
 
hollywoodbad, i thought you made mention of trying out some different tires, so i sent you a link to an Ebay auction that is selling brand new, stock RTX27 tires and wheels pre-glued for $25/set of 4 plus $9 shipping. that's basically $35 for a set of 4 new RTX27 tires and wheels. I have 2 sets already, otherwise i would buy them. i am currently looking to buy warhead tires to mount to a spare set of RTX27 rims that i have. i have done this with one set of tires and rtx27 rims already for my Emaxx, and now I want a set for my RTX27 itself. the stock truggy tires are just too puny when bashing, but are great on the track. sorry to learn about your back, that's too bad. it would be nice if the track could accommodate you some how. well, bash on fellow basher, bash on... let me know how she jumps for you, mine was meant to fly...
 
destevez78,Thanks for the simpathy:) I seen those on ebay too.Thanks anyway..I was saying that I had another set of buggy wheels and tires that I put on and they work great but just look funny.They are skinnier and smaller.Ima bashin ima bashin:D
 
OK, so I finally bought and installed an OS 30VG with Electric Start. The Duratrax Kwik Pit starter is a drop in replacement for the Savage Starter that comes with the ES (this is important as the Savage starter is straight versus the RTX which is angled). During and after break in, I noticed a TREMENDOUS difference in performance. Both with Traxxas & Byron 20% nitro fuel, and Duratrax Carbon Medium glow Plug & O'Donnell #100 Medium Glow Plug, I saw and currently see the same performance. Engine temps run a cool 220 - 235 degrees, with no rise for extended straightaway runs. The power is awesome and so is the top speed. Overall, the engine is not much faster than the Super Tigre, but the torque is in the lower RPM range, so the power is there sooner.

I too lost all 6 of the screws that hold the spur assembly together, so I am currently unable to drive. I have made some minor modifications to my RTX that I will post for others to evaluate.

That's all for now!!!
 
Well I bought a used savage with a 3 speed transmission and WOW!!!! You really need to know how to drive with this thing.I put the 2 speed back in just to see the difference and it is very noticeable.The RTX and Savage pretty much hang together with the 2 speed in.but with the three speed the savage will run away from the RTX. My buddy just got through breaking in the new axial 28 and it is just awesome. destevez78 I think it is like the O.S. 30. It has a lot of low and mid torq. The high speed has to do with the gearing,but it does get there quicker.. We are going to put a GPS on it with the stock clutch bell and then put a 17t clutch bell on and see the difference. We are also going to test the axial on the savage and see how it does compared to the HPI engine. Will let you know soon as I can.destevez78 what fuel and plug combo worked best in your opinion??? And I am not clear on which starter combo you used..Hit me back..
 
destevez78 what fuel and plug combo worked best in your opinion??? And I am not clear on which starter combo you used..Hit me back..

hollywoodbad, i am actually partial to the Byron Fuel (aka Hobby Gold & Mugen Seiki). it has good smoke (lubrication), and is reasonably priced at $23 here in Iowa. That being said, the Traxxas fuel was not bad either. As for glow plug, I am still using the Duratrax Carbon Speed, Medium Hot plug that I used for break in. So far, it has been a great plug, with no issues. I have yet to put in my O'Donnell #100 plugs. More to come on plugs later.

as for the starter business...what i was trying to say is that the OS 30VG ES comes with all the roto start equipment for the HPI Savage. when mounted in the Savage, the roto starter shaft is inserted from the rear of the truck. I have uploaded a picture of the HPI Savage Roto Start.

roto_actiont.webp
For the RTX, however, you need the side/angled Roto Starter Plate that comes with the RTX. Good thing is, the one that comes with the RTX is a direct drop-in replacement for the default one that comes with the OS 30VG :D, you only have to take it off of the Super Tigre (3 screws). I have uploaded this picture too. This is important because if you order the OS 30VG without the ES (bump start), you will need to purchase over $80 in parts to convert it to Roto Start, making it more expensive than just buying the ES or Pull Start model to begin with. You could also purchase the OS 30VG with Pull Start, and swap the pull start with the Duratrax Roto Starter. Explaining all this will hopefully save someone time and money. Check out OS 30VG flyer to see the exploded view of the parts I am talking about:
http://downloads.hobbico.com/sellsheets/osm/osmg2075-sellsheet.pdf

The above link is not for the OS 30VG ES, here is that link:
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2078.html

dtxp6033.webp OS 30VG.webp

i am including 2 PDF attachments on some setup work I have done to improve the performance of my RTX. Items include, dremel-ing the opening where the steering tie rods come through the vertical aluminum plate to prevent the screw heads from dragging/catching, moving the mounting point of the steering rod end farthest from the front of the truck for more Ackerman/steering, changing the spring locations on the throttle and brake linkages for improved response (this was a huge improvement), body cutout recommendations, and the dreaded spur gear screws that fall out because the factory didn't put Locktite on them. I hope this information helps some people out. Feel free to E-mail me at [email protected] for one-on-one communications about any specific modification.

View attachment RTX Setup Info.pdf

View attachment spur screws.pdf
 
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