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Duratrax RTX-27, $199!!!!

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I promise anyone on here i have owned that damn truck and its is THE WORST thing i've ever bought. I guess if your going to waste $200 on the truck+ $280 on a decent motor+$300 on a radio and $200 more on spares to keep it RTR then its not bad. Seriously i bought one thinking i was going to prove something to savy owners and i ended up buying a savy. DONT BUY This truck PLEASE.
 
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I imagine it will have a lot to do with the owner to be honest with you. If you watch some vids on the RTX-27....it can take a decent beating. Most of the problems that I read were tuning related, and hard to work on.... I drove a Warhead for a few months (older version of the RTX-27) and I had minimal issues really...but it was also my very first truck. Had I not scored a used Revo with a brand new TRX 3.3 on it for $200....I was going to buy the RTX-27. It's not as bad as some people make you think it is, just realize it's not a Savage or a T-Maxx...but it can still be a great truck with some patience. It really is hard to beat at $200 Brand New RTR.
 
Rt-x 27

Hey guys, My friend and I have this truck and I got "MY OPINION" about it.My friend has had his for 1 week and stripped the steering servo.Broke rear shock tower.Lost one wheel nut.Lost all the spur gear screws(6).Throttle servo went out.Burned up the battery holder for the rx.Thought the rx was fried but wasn't.This is his first nitro and is still pretty happy with it.He did call Duratrax and they are sending him all new parts,even a new rx and spur gear with slipper clutch!!!:D Now I was going to buy parts for my old .15 pro maxx and it was going to cost me as much as this truck..So I got a new truck..Fix Maxx later..The servos,TX,RX are kinda crappy if you ask me.I got through 4 tanks before my servos started acting up.They acted like there was no charge in batteries.I even made sure that I put in new energizer batteries.The carb is not that great and I think the big block engine is lacking power.Don't get me wrong. It will go!! But I would think it would pull the front wheels off the ground ya know.It gets to top speed pretty quick and if your just playing around then you might think it needs a higher 2nd gear or may need a bigger clutch bell or maybe just some taller tires.I will be getting a new clutch bell to see.Need money!!!!! I am also going to change out the TX,RX,Battery pack and servos.Now let me tell you about the break in process...DO NOT GO BY THE BOOK!!!! My friends engine almost got up to 400 degrees!! I told him that was not good. He said "that's what the book said to do". This motor will run hot so I richened up the high speed needle after I started it up. Yours may vary but I turned mine one and half turns.I kept my temps around 230 degrees.Not real familiar with breaking in nitros but this engine runs like crapp while breaking in.My friends ran the same way and now his sounds great.I might go with a colder plug. By the way,we are running Byrons 15% nitro and 16% oil and factory glow plug for break in.This truck has some potential.For under $200 you just can't pass it up.My T-maxx had problems too and that was 5 years and 5 gallons ago!!!!:) Even after seeing the problems we have with our trucks his brother in law bought him one too..Hope this helps someone..I also hope someone comes up with more parts besides duratrax..Over $600 for all the alluminum upgrades!!!
 
Nice write up ;-) Just remember to threadlock everything and that will help a few of those issues. Glad to hear they are hooking you up with new parts though! Keep us posted on how it goes...I may still buy one for the heck of it. I actually liked my Warhead...and the Revo seems TINY compared to it. That truck was HUGE! lol
 
Thanks guys..I just changed the battery pack today and every thing was working fine..Got to finish my break in..I didn't have a temp gauge today so I just had to do the old spit test..I don't think the motor got too hot..I really don't know too much about these big blocks..I do have a .15 and .16 in two other trucks and they run great to me.This big block takes 1/4 tank to warm up and then it finally has power..I got the front wheels off the ground a couple of inches.Flipped a few times and good to go.No lost parts or breakage..I went through 4 tanks of fuel..It seems to idle great.Stayed running upside down until i got to it and then died(about 80 feet at a walk)Still at stock settings. Except needle adjustments.I need to get some more fuel.Going with 20% nitro this time and trying a cold plug..I really like this beast.If I can't get it to cool down I guess I will get a better heatsink..That Should do it.This thing will haul butt. If your bashing around in a small area ya might keep everything as is on the gearing,but I got a big yard and I like driving on the pavement too ,so I will be getting a different gear for speed.LOVE SPEED..Break things quicker but at least I get to brag about how I wiped out.LOL..Ya know "Hey Guys Watch This"..They should give you an option to put reverse back in if you wanted too.I really don't care but my buddy does.He just can't drive..I really want to hop this thing up with all aluminum and an O.S. engine.But That will have to wait..I seen a .27 or .28 engine from Japan for $50 bucks on a website but I can't remember where..Might get that. I would rate this truck at a 7 out of 10. Shotty electrics and hot engine.Other than that not too bad..I am kinda going by my knowledge of how my T-Maxx was.If I can just make myself part out my old mountaineer I might have some more play money..Catch ya later...
 
Well I guess no one has to worry about the RT-X 27 anymore...They are discontinuing it from Tower..Unless you can find it elsewhere.
 
My RT-X 27

well, i am new to threads, so be patient with me. the rt-x 27 was my first nitro vehicle. i have always dealt in electric & brushless until now. i bought mine from tower, when it was $100 off. my overall experience has been positive, but has not been without headache. i rate this truck a 7 out of 10 as far as RTR's go. here are the things i have seen and/or recommend:

1.) i smoked both servos when i used a NiMH 5 cell RX pack :angry:. i am not sure why this happened, unless the stock servos were not rated to support the initial 7+ volts seen with a fully charged 5 cell pack (1.2 volts/cell nominal, ~1.4 volts/cell fully charged). for cost purposes, i replaced the steering servo with a Hobbico/Tower Hobbies 170 digital servo, and the throttle servo with a Hobbico/Tower Hobbies 140 digital servo. no issues to date with either servo! also, i tightened the servo saver on the steering servo, as the added 333 oz-in of steering caused the saver to work without turning my wheels.

2.) i use a futaba 3pm 2.4 ghz radio system, so when i replaced the servos, i replaced the rx too. works great and the 3pm 2.4 ghz, when used with NiMH rx packs and digital servos, has a built in programmable Fail Safe :first_place: to help prevent run away nitros. other radio systems may also have this feature, but it's nice not having to buy a Fail Safe module. also able to adjust end limits on servos to reduce servo strain, a big plus+++.

3.) after break in, the truck ran great until i ran out of Duratrax 20% Red Alert fuel. i bought a gallon of 20% O'Donnel fuel as recommended by Duratrax, and i think it was a bad gallon of fuel :(. this fuel caused many issues, but lead to more discoveries. please note, i am not bashing O'Donnell fuel, as a bad gallon could happen to any fuel manufacturer.

4.) seal your nitro engine first! when troubleshooting my fuel issue, before i knew it was an issue, i did a lot of research. i will say, sealing your engine helps no matter what. even though my engine was not running well, the sealing gave it cooler running temps. check out this thread, it is a pretty good one. total cost for supplies to seal your engine, less than $10!
HTML: 
http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?file=viewtopic&name=Forums&t=54465

5.) after swapping out the recommended Medium temp duratrax glow plug for an equivalent medium temp o'donnell plug, and finally finishing the gallon of O'donnell fuel, something amazing happened. my next gallon of fuel was 20% Traxxas fuel, i wanted Byron, which makes Mugen Seiki and Hobby Gold fuels too with no difference here in my home state of Iowa, but my LHS was all out, so Traxxas it was. the stock high speed needle settings of 4.5 turns out, with a running setting of ~4 turns for the O'donnell fuel, with the Traxxas fuel, ended up becoming something like 2.5 - 2.75 turns out. I know what you are thinking, but i did this with 1/12 increment turns and a temp gauge. the engine wouldn't even turn over at idle with the stock setting of 4.5 turns out because the fuel/air mix was so rich. at 2.5 - 2.75 turns out, i was shocked at how well the engine idled, and WOW, what a difference in performance. i had run the o'donnell plug with the o'donnell fuel, and had the same results, so i know now that i had a bad gallon of fuel, as the Traxxas fuel kept me engine temps low, increased my low end torque response, and made the truck run like it was supposed to.

finally, after all this, i busted a tie-rod end when my 3 year old ran it into a stake in the ground :(. the replacement part is on back order from tower hobbies, and i discover that the rt-x 27 is discontinued :angry:. for $200, i recommend this truck, but please note my modifications above.

i hope this helps someone out. in case you are wondering, this truck has several brothers: 2 Traxxas VXL Rustler's, 1 Traxxas Emaxx w/Novak HV 4.5 system, 1 Duratrax Evader EXT, & 1 Kyosho Turbo Ultima II from 15 years ago :D!!!
 
Hey MOTO!!!
There are a few more places that I seen selling this truck for $200 but can't remember where..I am shutdown right now because I need more money to buy fuel..I AM BROKE!!!! The truck is holding up pretty good..The last time I ran it.I used Byron 20% nitro with 12% oil and a O.S. A5 plug. I got the temps down and at some very hard straight runs,the temps were at 300F...That is not too bad.I aim the temp gauge down at the glow plug.Like I said before, The electronics are junk and that includes the servos..Replace those and and your good to go..I am going to try sealing my motor and see if that helps..Can't try different fuel because LHS only carries Byron..I will be getting 20% and some add in oil to bring the oil content up to 18%.Adding more oil decreases nitro content.Just in case someone did not know that..I read that someone made there own fuel and didn't use any nitro. Of course they had a modded engine.My friend and I are going to start mixing our own fuel pretty soon. Big blocks suck that crap up!!!

Hey destevez78....I got a question for you..Does your engine take awhile to warm up to performance level???..Before warm up,if you hold down the throttle,does it just kinda bogg??
I knew I was getting air into the system somewhere..I kept seeing bubbles in my line at the carb intake.I checked my fuel tank and lines for leaks and couldn't find any..Now I know it must be from the engine.Thanks..
I still have not tried any stunt jumping yet but I will:D I will post any findings for this truck for sale..
 
Hey destevez78....I got a question for you..Does your engine take awhile to warm up to performance level???..Before warm up,if you hold down the throttle,does it just kinda bogg??
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HOLLYWOODBAD, it varies how long it takes my engine to warm up. With the "Good" Fuel (read my previous post), I would say that it takes a 1/4 - 1/2 tank to warm up when it's around 60 degrees F outside. The colder the longer it takes. Also, if you are running real rich, it's tough to tell because the engine will run cool until you lean it out more.

Regarding Byron fuel, I hear from my LHS's (all 3 of them) that it is the best fuel out there. Mugen Seike and Hobby Gold are also the same fuel as Byron, Byron just brands them. Again, this is what they tell me. Also, they tell me that there is no need to worry too much about the % of lubricants in the Byron fuel, and in fact, they do not recommend adding any additional lubricants to the fuel. What is mentioned is that the quality of SYNTHETIC lubricants in the fuel at 13%, is as good or better than natural petroleum based lubricants at 18% in fuel. I'm no fuel expert, so I am just passing along what they say, but the same applies in the 1:1 car world, so it makes sense. Synthetics versus Petrol Based lubricants can run much longer and with less friction (heat). I STRONGLY recommend sealing your engine first, and using a Medium heat glow plug. I am using an O'Donnell #100 glow plug, but I imagine an equivalent OS, Durtrax, etc. would also work. Do this and replace your fuel line before playing with fuel lubrication. Air leaks create lean running conditions, and runaway temps. I can run around 240 - 260 degrees F now, after warm up, without any noticeable spikes during hard running. Of course, as the environmental conditions change, I have had to make minor adjustments.

04/05/09
BTW, i forgot to add that i have cut out a hole in the front windshield, and removed the entire rear windshield. this allows 2 things. first, it allows air to flow through the cab and directly over the engine, helping with cooling. second, you can access the roll bar / carrying handle without having to remove the body.
 
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I sealed the engine and with the med cold plug (O.S. A5) I get 260 F temps.If I use any hotter plug I will get hotter temps and I am running with the body off and Byron 20% nitro.I also have it as rich as I can get it without it bogging like crazy.It bogs just a hair off of start and runs great right now.I am still getting air bubbles in the line.I put the tank and lines under water and put pressure in it and all is good.Maybe it's all the foaming in the fuel tank when I am running it.Only thing that I can think of.O and yes I have my fuel lines away from heat.Also have them protected.
 
I also have it as rich as I can get it without it bogging like crazy.It bogs just a hair off of start and runs great right now.I am still getting air bubbles in the line.I put the tank and lines under water and put pressure in it and all is good.Maybe it's all the foaming in the fuel tank when I am running it.
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hollywoodbad, i too get some air bubbles in my fuel line, and do not really know why. i have done the same things you have, and still see air in the lines. the fuel is supposed to have anti-foaming agents to prevent, among other things, air suspended in the fuel (similar to CO2 in carbonated drinks). i have not messed with colder glow plugs, but i may be able to suggest a fix for the idle to acceleration bogging.

when i switched from O'Donnell to Traxxas fuel, i had to adjust my LOW Speed needle somewhere between 1/12 - 4/12 of a turn clockwise/LEANER than where it was set for the O'Donnell fuel. i can't remember for sure, as i may have gone back 1/12 of a turn RICHER after going LEANER 4/12 turns. anyhow, the leaner low speed setting should help you out from idle, and during low speed maneuvers/acceleration. also, you might be able to go back to a MEDIUM plug and slightly richer highspeed needle settings by simply making minor adjustments to your low speed needle. this may also help with temps. i noticed that if my low speed needle is set right, my engine temps will remain around 210 -225 degrees F at idle (i am not sure exactly the temp), which is where the most power is generated at low speeds/RPM. anything under 200 degrees F, and the engine will not generate power and bog, in my experience.

in my nitro learnings, my LHS and others have instructed me that switching between fuel brands with the same nitro %, while technically not an issue with engines, requires serious attention to low & high speed needle settings. this can make tuning a real interesting ordeal, and one that makes me love Electric all the more. i bashed for over 1 hour on my Emaxx, running a Novak HV 6.5 brushless system, 2 Maxamps 2S 6500 mah lipos, the stock spur, and a 13 tooth pinion. nothing broke, and no tuning required :D!!!
 
Rtx-27

Just got one of these from the neighbor for $100. Only 1 month old!! He's moving up to the world of gas powered Bajas. We've had relatively good luck when running the RTX, but the engine backplate has come loose a few times resulting in a major air leak and the inevitable burned out plug. We broke it down and sealed it as prescribed by many forums and it ran well yesterday. We'll see how it goes once bashing.

Do any of you see any problems with running a colder plug like the OS A5 in the RTX-27? Hobby shop guys said to run an A3 or 8, but I think that's too hot for the big block. Any advice will be appreciated.

For those thinking of purchasing the RTX, I also own the '08 Revo and for the money ($200), the RTX-27 is a great buy. That's IF you can still get it for $200 new. Don't spend the $400 retail though. You'd be better off getting into the master engineering of the revo for an extra $80. Not to mention, you're ready to race wiht the stock REVO.

On that note, has anyone had issues burning plugs out on the TRX 3.3 engine. I am using the factory recommended plug, but keep burning them out quickly. Recommendations?? Engine has been sealed, I'm running it rich, and temps stay below 270. Maybe I'm running too high RPM's when gettin' it in the straight stretches. Frustrating.
 
Dook, Get a McCoy mc8 plug for the RTX.

And get a McCoy plug for you're trx 3.3 instead of those GARBAGE traxxas plugs.

NOTE TO ANY ONE ONSIDERING THE RTX 27!: They have been discontinued now.
 
Thanks Sam,

Is this a colder plug or is it simply better made than the OS A5? We just ordered a 10 pack of the A5's. I guess all I can do is hope now. BTW, I totally agree that the traxxas plugs are crap!! I expected better from them, they should probably stick to making cars & trucks, not plugs.
 
My local hobby shop has a duratrax raze for sale. While I was looking at it and asking questions. He told me to buy a new steering servo If I decided to buy it. He said the one in it would only last 2 or 3 runs before it died. He did say that that was the only complaint feedback he had gotten so far on them.
 
Thanks for the info destevez78.Not trying to bash you or anything but I do understand that I need to adjust needle settings when changing fuel nitro %. I was using a hotter plug with 20% and temps were getting too hot.Even after sealing motor.I use the A5 plug and temps are down.I heard that the hotter and colder plugs act like the timing.I don't know if that is true or not.My buddy has the same truck and uses the same fuel (Byron 20%)and uses a med hot plug and then he added Byron add in oil.He said OH MY GOD..You need to check this out,you are going to be so jelous.Not sure exactly what needle settings but he said that he leaned it way down and still smokes like crazy and it is faster than it has been before.I have not seen it in action yet but I will.I think he said his temps were like 240F,but he keeps burning up plugs.He is using racers edge #4.He richened it up and still blowing plugs so he put it back.Maybe crappy plugs.The only thing that I have NOT learned is the muffler.?????Like more power sliding one way and more speed the other????? Or which pipe is better for what you want like power or speed.How to tune the pipe???Gets me dizzy!!I have a .16 (Duratrax Maximum MT)and it used a crappy pipe.I put it in my T-Maxx and used an aftermarket pipe and now it runs like crap.Had this motor for over 5 years and it started easy and idled perfect all the time.Now I have to keep messing with it.So I know it has got to be the pipe.Will be putting factory pipe back on..

RoyP said:
My local hobby shop has a duratrax raze for sale. While I was looking at it and asking questions. He told me to buy a new steering servo If I decided to buy it. He said the one in it would only last 2 or 3 runs before it died. He did say that that was the only complaint feedback he had gotten so far on them.
Click to expand...

Mine is still going but they are cheap servos.


Dook42 said:
Thanks Sam,

Is this a colder plug or is it simply better made than the OS A5? We just ordered a 10 pack of the A5's. I guess all I can do is hope now. BTW, I totally agree that the traxxas plugs are crap!! I expected better from them, they should probably stick to making cars & trucks, not plugs.
Click to expand...

MC-8 is a med hot plug.MC-9 and O.S. A5 is a med cold plug and Help keeps the temps down and more durable.
Here is a helpful link http://www.scootworks.com/rdrc/gloplugs.html
 
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