Driveshafts

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Rukk

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I've been having fun bashin' my Maxx (I think 'bout a couple years now) and during the latest post bash review, I noticed that the u-joint pins had stressed the plastic and had elongated the holes in the rear driveshaft. (model 4908). No biggie, I replaced all the parts.

But, that got me thinking, (you know, Maxx on the brain) about putting some aftermarket shafts on my truck. I've done some looking and seen a few different sets, but I'm unsure which may be the best and/or the best bang for the buck.

I'm also running a stock clutch and I see that some of you folks talk up the integy 3-shoe, thing is, which model...I've found two different model numbers.

I'd appreciate recommendations if ya got 'em.
 
MIP makes good stuff as far as the shafts (CVD's) go
 
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I use to run RD Logics steel universal shafts on my maxx and they held up to the castle mamba max system.
 
MIP all the way ! Everything else is second. I use MIP on all of my builds.
 
I've got a set of used mip steel axles for sale. As long as you have the narrow chassis they willvwork
 
Thanks for the inputs!
 
Like everyone else said mip for cvds but also great assembly rc makes a good 3 shoe clutch
 
OK I've heard many times including here that MIP makes good dog CVDs for Tmaxx's, but Tower Hobbies describes them as being aluminum. Is this correct? and if so will they still hold up well to a Picco .26? (future upgrade for me)
 
A much cheaper rear center that works excellent is... a set of revo spec drive cups W/ a 77 mm Hpi dogbone. 12 bucks and holds up to a picco red dot for about 2 gallons.

A red dot will eat a stock center in 2 tanks
 
My MIP CVDS are steel shafted. Sooo good ? I would assume a type error or they produced both versions. When I purchased mine years back all they had where steel. :whhooo:
 
Cool I would figure they have to be steel. seems like aluminum would just twist itself apart from the torque. Aluminum does well with compression and tension, but not so great with torque.
 
To be honest... getting a couple years out of a set of stock axles would mean to me that you should buy another set of stock axles. No point in spending more $ on something that seems to hold up just fine in stock form.
 
Well, yea that is the obvious thing to do, and what I did to get back in to action. But I also like messing with the truck and don't mind spending a little money on it here and there.

That said, the MIP center driveshafts are a little pricey at around $55 bucks especially considering that I'm not experiencing any real failure rate with the stock parts. Now if I was wrecking center shafts then that price wouldn't be an issue.

Probably the best thing I ever did was buy a roll cage soon as one came out for the 4908 model. I believe mine is a VG Racing brand and I paid pretty handsomely for it at the time, I think around $70. Its heavy, but that's the only negative I have for it. I am positive that it has saved me a ton of dough though in parts not broken. I've sent my truck flipping, cartwheeling, both at the same time, had it land upside down from jumps, run into trees, brick walls and pinned it under vehicles at full speed, etc., etc., and I've broken a few parts here and there but to be honest no biggie.

Overall, my truck has held up surprisingly well. I do tend to go through bearings frequently despite efforts to keep 'em clean and even get better ones. I reckon the weight of the truck and my driving habits contribute to that.

...I still like the looks of those MIP center shafts though........

Olds...

now you've got me thinking about bearings.... might have to start a thread and get thoughts on that......
 
Thanks!

That's the ticket there I say.... I ordered me up a batch yes I did!
 
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