Drilling and tapering holes.

[ohmygahitscoby]

Hey guys,

I bought a 3Racing strap for my TC4, and it requires some drilling. I am using a carbon fiber chassis, so I'm kinda scared. Anyways, I know how to drill the hole into the chassis and all that, but I need help tapering the hole so I can use a flathead screw. Are there any tools I can use to perfect this? Should I go to the safe side and have someone else do it for me? Please reply guys. Thanks!

-Coby

 

[sweetdiesel]

You need to use a countersink bit. Check your local hardware store for the correct size.

 

[Amoeba]

Sweetdiesel is right, a countersink bit is what you need. Make sure that the countersink depth is shallower than your chassis thickness or mark the bit with sharpie where you need the drill depth to stop.

For carbon fiber drilling, never use a dull bit and don't force the drill through, let the high drill RPM's do the work slowly through the CF. Too much pressure can cause cracking or weakening of the CF.

 

[Rolex]

I prefer a small pilot hole, then work the opening with a tapered stone in a Dremmel. That will TOTALLY eliminate any chance of binding or damaging the body in any way.

 

[Amoeba]

I prefer a small pilot hole, then work the opening with a tapered stone in a Dremmel. That will TOTALLY eliminate any chance of binding or damaging the body in any way.

Huh, I never thought of that but now that you've mentioned it that totally makes sense.

 

[Rolex]

You won't enjoy the stench when grinding CF. It smells like a hobo's old sweat sock.

 

[Amoeba]

You won't enjoy the stench when grinding CF. It smells like a hobo's old sweat sock.

I bow to your superior experience with sweaty sock-clad hobos.

 

[RC Addict]

You won't enjoy the stench when grinding CF. It smells like a hobo's old sweat sock.

I don't even want to hear the story about your nose-love with a hobo's foot wear...

 

[olds97_lss]

I use this: 1/2" countersink bit
I've used it on wood, aluminum and steel. Works perfectly for 3mm flat head screws.

Here's aluminum and steel. The bar with the red line on it is steel. The skid it's attached too with countersunk holes is aluminum. The bottom layer is the stock LST skid plate. All screws are 3mm flat head machine screws.

 

[Racer 1966]

I use this: 1/2" countersink bit

Technically that's not a countersink for screws. The standard angle for flathead screws is 82deg, that's 90deg c-sink.

 

[Amoeba]

Technically that's not a countersink for screws. The standard angle for flathead screws is 82deg, that's 90deg c-sink.

I see I'm not the only person who grew up with a master carpenter in the family (or is one themselves, which I am definitely not)

Carpentry geeks FTW!

 

[Racer 1966]

Actually I suck at carpentry. I'm a toolmaker/moldmaker.

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

Ooh, didn't know they had those tools. Thanks guys! Well it turns out I learned that carbon fiber WILL become fibrous, so it won't be good for my health . Fortunately, my uncle is a toolguy, and hopefully he can do it for me . Thanks for the posts guys. It helped a lot.

 

[psunitro]

Actually I suck at carpentry. I'm a toolmaker/moldmaker.

Ahhh, another one on here!

 

[olds97_lss]

Technically that's not a countersink for screws. The standard angle for flathead screws is 82deg, that's 90deg c-sink.

Got a link to the one that is specific to machine screws?

 

[Rolex]

I bow to your superior experience with sweaty sock-clad hobos.

Ummm....it smells like really old never washed high school gym socks, put away wet and left in a plastic bag for several weeks before taking them home to be washed.

Just go ahead and grind it, and you'll recognize the smell.