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DrifTMaxx

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Lessen

Lessen

Super Awesome!
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Location
Aurora, Ohio (Cleveland)
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
ok everybody, I need everybody's opinion on this one. Here's the dilly...

My project is using the rear steering setup for "4 wheel steering" as it's primary steering up front. The only problem I had with this decision (I knew it would be an issue) is that it now places the tie rods (turnbuckles.. whatever) in front of the front a-arms, making them extremely succeptable to abuse. Here's a list of front end component I already have or are planning to get very soon.

Have:
Fastlane aluminum bulks
Fastlane aluminum shock towers

Will Have:
RPM A-arms
Lunsford Ti hinge pins
RPM knuckles
Integy Piggybacks
New Era aluminum bumber supports
New Era aluminum sway bars (the ones that connect to the bumper supports)


So I guess I just need to know what the better route is with the tie rods. Super Strong (I've seen Ti rods with Ti ends) or something weaker to take the hit. I would imagine that a hit from the front won't damage too much up front cuz the weak link is at the knuckle pivot points but from the bottom... that a different story. Ball and cup ends(will they pop off under hard cornering?)Carbon rods(will they snap instead of bend if hit hard enough?)
I've come to the obvioius conclusion that with this particular setup tie rod damage is inevitable. And for those who are wondering why the hell I would use this steering seup.... The chassis place is mounted backwards in order change the weight distribution. thanks guys.
 
If you are going to be putting it through turnbuckle hell, then stick with the stock ones with the RPM ball cup ends. The RPM ends dont pop off nearly as easy.

The Lunnsford turnbuckles have been very successful for me and take a beating. Their warranty is :) But again, if you plan on breaking them, stay stock. It will be much cheaper at the end of the day.
 
I don't really see the it goin through that much hell actually. But I decided on the Carbon rods. since I'm using a 4 wheel steering kit for my main front steering the front rods are connected directly to the servo... which will be digital. So I was thinking that IF I do hit something hard enough to bend a rod I'd rather it just snap. These rods are supposed to be pretty durable but at the extreme they should break rather than bend... plus they look great :)
 
gearing issue

Ok guys. I'm gonna be runnin into a gearing problem with my DrifTMaxx project. I found a 1/8 diff conversion tha I'm gonna get so I can have a torsen diff for the rear wheels. The problem is that this changes the overall gear ratios drastically. The website states that the cases house either MP7.5 diffs or Hyper 7 diffs. I guess the MP7.5 diffs are 3.3:1 instead of the stock Maxx 2.84 or something. So I did the math and that's gonna drop the top speed like 10MPH! That is.. if my calculations are correct. I don't want a 5+hp truck that does 30mph... that's just stupid. Course, itmight be stupid to have a 5hp Maxx to begin with but that's a different argument. Anyways, I need a clutch bell/spur combo that makes a ratio around 2.5 or so. So that's an RRP double slipper kit in 66T... which would call for a 25-26T clutch bell to bring it up around stock top speed. Well... I'm not having much luck finding a 26T bell to fit my clutches. I have the Option Team turboslide flywheel and clutch. The largest bell I've seen to fit is an 18 tooth. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

btw.. If you don't know it'll be runnin twin Picco .26s
 
RC-solutions now carries an 1/8 scale spur for the maxx that requires an 1/8 scale clutch and cb. You might want to look into that. It may open a few more options for your gearing.
 
thanks alot ollds, that 52T spur will get me real close to stock top speed.. like 37.4 or something (calculations minus tire flexing). I'll most definately keep that one on the front burner.
 
Actually, it's a different pitch bear (1/8 scale) I'm not sure of the actual pitch, but it's different than the maxx gears. It has less teeth per inch as well. Bigger teeth to handle bigger power.

Make sure to check out the chart on thier site so you can hopefully get a gear ration that will work for you.
 
yeah, it says 1.0 module pitch... what the hell does that mean? I never heard of that. I thought most 1/8 ran 32pitch. Stock Maxx spurs are 32 pitch too. This is the bell I was thinnking of using with that 52T spur http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL96&P=7
Actually, it doesn't say it's 32pitch, but I'm pretty sure it is. It's perfect bell depth and inner diameter I need to fit my clutches. Robinson Racing has a variety of 32 pitch bells for an rc10gt all the way up to 22, but I don't know anything at all about that vehicle and I'm not sure how large the bell is.
 
I"m not sure what that bell is for. But, I believe there is a difference between 1/10 bells and 1/8 bells. At least 1/8 buggy.

I haven't bought the clutch and bell yet. I picked up the gear though. When I get some $ I'll try and figure it out. I'll take the gear with me to my LHS and see what it meshes up with.
 
this is straight from my email from Scott @ rc solutions...

Module is the metric designation for tooth size, and is basically the same
as pitch on standard gears. A standard gear with say 48 pitch, is 1" in
diameter if it has 48 teeth, and 2" in dia if it has 96 teeth. A metric 1
module gear is 50 mm in dia if it has 50 teeth, while a 2 module gear will
be 100 mm in dia if it has 50 teeth.

All 1/8 scales use 1 module metric gears, including Savage, Monster GT, and
all 1/8 buggies. So you use a 1/8 clutch, flywheel and clutch bell with our
gear. This means you will have to have a big block .21+ engine, and probably
an extended chassis kit for your tmaxx. Most any clutch and bell will work,
including Savage parts, but savage bells are soft and wear out fast. We
recommend OFNA parts because they are common and durable. Our web page lists
some ofna part numbers (I think!). I found the best fit with ofna number
19355 bell and 38283 clutch kit. For 18 teeth I think the number is 19358.
Ofna has another ventelated bell that is a hair longer but will work just
fine.

Scott
 
well, I got some more parts for this project yesterday. THS .25-.28 pipes, OFNA 18T clutch bells.. still waiting on the 52T spur from RC solutions (should be here Mon.) so obviously I ran into another problem... but I saw this coming. First of all it seems like the extended chassis from New Era just isn't extended enough for my particular setup. The screw that keeps the CB on gets too close (almost brushes) the tranny case. I changed from a button head to a countersunk and that helped a little but it looks like the CB isn't quite gonna line up with the spur dead on but I won't be able to tell for sure till I get my spur. Secondly, I have about ZERO clearance for my headers because of the shocks. The're even closer than normal because they lean in toward the engine (remember my chassis plate is backwards) so it looks like a custom "extended" extended chassis for me. I think it'll end up working just fine, actually it'll move the engines back from the front end a little so as to put the engine heads almost directly under the windshield (won't have to carve into the hood). So at this point I'm waiting on my spur so I can take some measurements. once that's done I'll just make a call and get my custom chassis milled... i'll keep ya posted.
 
I may be a bit late and you may have worked around it but I have seen clutch bells on ebay up to 24T. Here is a 20T that I found but I am sure I have seen bigger.
 
There are a few pics in my gallary actually but I've got more parts since then. Unfortunately, I don't have a digicam so i have to take normal pics and scan them. I'm tied up in two jobs right now so I dont really have any time to work on it. I will take some more pics soon, maybe in a couple week or when I get my new chassis.

Maskale, Yeah, I did get it worked out. RC-solutions big block spur gear (52T) and Ofna CB (18T)
 

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