Direction issus

[Sweetlou0069]

Hey I got a hpi sprint 2 flux , everything was rynningvgreat on it , ivswitch all the lower arms directional thing to aluminum , nowvwhen ibgo forward full throttle itll head to the right , but going slow it goes straight , b4 ivswitch it was going straight no matter what . Plz helo

 

[cbaker65]

Hey I got a hpi sprint 2 flux , everything was rynningvgreat on it , ivswitch all the lower arms directional thing to aluminum , nowvwhen ibgo forward full throttle itll head to the right , but going slow it goes straight , b4 ivswitch it was going straight no matter what . Plz helo

LOL....it sounds like one of those cheap 1 channel cars ,if you want to turn ,just hit reverse!.....

 

[Sweetlou0069]

LOL....it sounds like one of those cheap 1 channel cars ,if you want to turn ,just hit reverse!.....

What are you talking about?? Ain't no cheap rc . Not the most expensive but still a decent one . N like mention b4 the switch it was working fine. And all I changed was the lower arms n that piece that makes the wheel turn

 

[olds97_lss]

Remove the shocks and check for binding in the arm's travel. Might be the new arms don't pivot/articulate nicely like the old plastic ones did. Binding when you apply throttle could make one wheel actually lift/lose traction which would make it veer off. Could also be the arms are a bit different geometry than what you removed causing things to get weird. May need to adjust your toe-in some.

Most don't run alloy arms as they tend to break parts that are more irritating to replace. I usually run c-hubs/axle carriers and bulkhead/hinge pin mounts if possible, but leave the arms plastic as they are usually cheap, easy to replace and flex a bit before they break.

I think @cbaker65 was joking about those cheap toy rc's that don't really "steer", but actually angle the front tires when you go in reverse.

 

[Sweetlou0069]

Remove the shocks and check for binding in the arm's travel. Might be the new arms don't pivot/articulate nicely like the old plastic ones did. Binding when you apply throttle could make one wheel actually lift/lose traction which would make it veer off. Could also be the arms are a bit different geometry than what you removed causing things to get weird. May need to adjust your toe-in some.

Most don't run alloy arms as they tend to break parts that are more irritating to replace. I usually run c-hubs/axle carriers and bulkhead/hinge pin mounts if possible, but leave the arms plastic as they are usually cheap, easy to replace and flex a bit before they break.

I think @cbaker65 was joking about those cheap toy rc's that don't really "steer", but actually angle the front tires when you go in reverse.

I'm sorry what do you mean by binding in the arms travel ? Like stuck ?

 

[Sweetlou0069]

I'm sorry what do you mean by binding in the arms travel ? Like stuck ?

I'm thinking it hase to do with the left wheel as that wheel feels loose n I can move it maybe 1/8 inch on each side n the other wheel dont move n if I try that on the right wheel it dont move at all it feels like thetes a loose in the directional screwdriver on the chassis on the left . But I built it back up the same exact way. That aluminum kit is wietd maybe that's the issus also . The back wheels were 100% straight on the plastic n on the aluminum there inwards not by much but they are both inwards equally

 

[cbaker65]

I'm thinking it hase to do with the left wheel as that wheel feels loose n I can move it maybe 1/8 inch on each side n the other wheel dont move n if I try that on the right wheel it dont move at all it feels like thetes a loose in the directional screwdriver on the chassis on the left . But I built it back up the same exact way. That aluminum kit is wietd maybe that's the issus also . The back wheels were 100% straight on the plastic n on the aluminum there inwards not by much but they are both inwards equally

Check an see if the wheel hubs or steering knuckles turn freely ,they maybe to tight where they connect to the c-joint ,that maybe where
it is binding!

 

[Sweetlou0069]

Check an see if the wheel hubs or steering knuckles turn freely ,they maybe to tight where they connect to the c-joint ,that maybe where
it is binding!

The spring for the servo saver was loose so I tighten it but my back belt broke n now full throttle it goes straight ( even if the acceleration isnt the same on 2wd) so I'm guessing it was the servo saver being to loose or it hase something to do with the back . The back diff is solid it's not like the front one that 1 wheel can turn if one is stuck of what ever . Maybe it was only the saver if I'm lucky . I'll know in 3 weeks approx when my belt arrives