Will doing the four spider mod. help take the strane off the right rear rim and spread the power more equally to four ties? What I'm trying to ask is, will this help with not stripping the rims because the power is spread out, not just in one spot? What other diff. mod. options are there and what are the + ,- to doing them? Thanks for the help!
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Diff. Options
- Thread starter pee wee
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The spider gear mod is an upgrade to the strength of the differential gears and the way they interact.
The stripping of rims comes from the torque plus the fact that the rim is not all the way tightened onto the hub; not really how the torque is distributed. Any play between hub and rim is enough for the torque to drive the hub like a router bit and round out (strip) the socket on the rim.
Solution: Make sure that the fit of hub to rim socket is snug. This means tighten down the rim onto the hub (but do not over-tighten to the point of cracking the rim).
You might say, "But Sky, I have been doing that." -or "I've already done that."
What some have noticed, and you may not have, is that the nuts used on these axles to hold the wheels on have a tendancy to back themselves off. So, you may have already made sure things are nice and tight....but a little running, and voila, the wheels get loose. Believe me, I'm right there with you. I got them nice and snug, then started doing donuts in loose dirt. It only took about two minutes to have one of the wheels come flying off.
Solution: Apply a little locktite (blue or green) to the portion of the axle that you screw the nut onto. Put the tire on (try not to rub off the locktite). Then tighten down the nut. This should keep the nut from backing off or at least give it more resistance to that tendancy.
I'll leave the actual chatter about spider gears and their advantages to those who have done this mod. I have not, nor do I intend to unless I fry a diff.
The stripping of rims comes from the torque plus the fact that the rim is not all the way tightened onto the hub; not really how the torque is distributed. Any play between hub and rim is enough for the torque to drive the hub like a router bit and round out (strip) the socket on the rim.
Solution: Make sure that the fit of hub to rim socket is snug. This means tighten down the rim onto the hub (but do not over-tighten to the point of cracking the rim).
You might say, "But Sky, I have been doing that." -or "I've already done that."
What some have noticed, and you may not have, is that the nuts used on these axles to hold the wheels on have a tendancy to back themselves off. So, you may have already made sure things are nice and tight....but a little running, and voila, the wheels get loose. Believe me, I'm right there with you. I got them nice and snug, then started doing donuts in loose dirt. It only took about two minutes to have one of the wheels come flying off.
Solution: Apply a little locktite (blue or green) to the portion of the axle that you screw the nut onto. Put the tire on (try not to rub off the locktite). Then tighten down the nut. This should keep the nut from backing off or at least give it more resistance to that tendancy.
I'll leave the actual chatter about spider gears and their advantages to those who have done this mod. I have not, nor do I intend to unless I fry a diff.
SavageThunder21
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:redbuggy: excuse the car...I put a little locktite on the threads of my axles and it has been working pretty good so far...just don't put too much that it might get on one of the bearings...a buddy of mine put too much and it made his wheel lock up...
Ok - I posted this in another thread, but the thought crossed my mind yesterday while at HarborFreight.
This is the idea (untested mind you!)
On the end of the axle is what I call a hub. The hex hub the the rim slide on when mounting.
I own a set of the HB Locking hubs, but I think that any TMaxx stock hub will work.
I'm thinking of placing a piece of tape over the hole of the rim. On the outside.
Then, fill the keyed inside part of the rim, half way or so, with liquid plastic.
Push your hex hub inside, enough to cause the plastic to squeeze upwards around the edges.
Wipe off the excess.
Let dry and remove hex hub.
Trim the hole back out.
Do you think this might work and or help with the rim stripping problem?
Its just a thought.
This is the idea (untested mind you!)
On the end of the axle is what I call a hub. The hex hub the the rim slide on when mounting.
I own a set of the HB Locking hubs, but I think that any TMaxx stock hub will work.
I'm thinking of placing a piece of tape over the hole of the rim. On the outside.
Then, fill the keyed inside part of the rim, half way or so, with liquid plastic.
Push your hex hub inside, enough to cause the plastic to squeeze upwards around the edges.
Wipe off the excess.
Let dry and remove hex hub.
Trim the hole back out.
Do you think this might work and or help with the rim stripping problem?
Its just a thought.
SavageThunder21
RC Newbie
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are you saying put the plastic stuff in there to take up the extra space between the hub and wheel?