Diff Fluid Help Please

[pigpen]

I piggy backed on another thread with this question, but I am not sure it was seen, so if this is bad, I am sorry, but I need a little help, thanks.

Lets pretend I have a Torsen Center diff, and 2 stocks front and rear diffs in my Ofna MBX. And the track is a high bite, indoor off-road (almost a blue groove track). What diff fluid suggestions would you make? Thanks for your time.


For an example, one guy says he is running 30,000 Center, standard diff, 10,000 front and 7,000 rear. Is he blowin smoke?
:help:

 

[Jeff Cain]

Prolly. For starters you don't add fluid to a TorSen diff, you just grease the gears. The TORque SENsing diffs function as a result of a mix of regular and worm gears, and as they turn against each other they bind a little. The harder the twisting action, the greater the binding (up to a point at which the diff unloads and has no binding action). As far as normal diffs front and rear, I'd go with 5k front and 1k rear. This would of course be your starting point, not the magic setup you'll run for the rest of your life.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

holy 30k center? I dunno bout that one boss

 

[kyosho1]

Just Wondering if differential grease might be usable as an alternative.

Probably a stupid question, but is shock silicone usable.

My LHS told me to use diff grease on my Kannai 11.

i know very little about the best lubricant to use, and would like to hear from you guys a little more on this topic.





KYOSHO 1

 

[mattyk6]

I thought the standard was: 3000 in the front, 5000 or 7000 in the center, and 10,000 in the rear? Am I off in this? What do you run in your buggies?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[pigpen]

I run a center Torsen, from what I understand, I don't put fluid in there. I didn't know if having the center adjusted what you need in the front and rear.

 

[IBEXtrax]

Originally posted by mattyk6
I thought the standard was: 3000 in the front, 5000 or 7000 in the center, and 10,000 in the rear? Am I off in this? What do you run in your buggies?

Matt,
When you are dealing with standard sun gear and idler gear differentials, the rule of thumb that I use is, “The lighter the diff oil, the more drive you are going to get out of that end of the buggy.” And on every instance I have ever come across, more drive is required from the rear wheels as compared to the front.
So do yourself a favor and put the lightest (Lower number) diff oil in the rear. Then a little heavier in front. And finally the thickest diff oil in the center.

--

 

[FlyinRazorback]

On a really high bite track, you can get away with higher center diff oils. It will help you put the power down much quicker. However, if the track is a little loose, it will be hard to control your buggy. I raced on a track that had tons of traction and one guy was running 50,000 in the center and doing quite well with it. I think he was running something like 10,000 in the front and 5,000 or 7,000 in the rear.

 

[mattyk6]

IBEX -

What diff oils do you run in Wenatchee? I started racing there last summer with electric and now have a Storm for the upcoming season.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[TURBO JOHNNY]

was up IBEX...TURBO here...how ya been,, hope to see ya at the track soon...RACE ON!!!
TURBO JOHNNY

 

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, first thing.. lets get this right.. silicone oil is better than the grease in my opinion..

Also, Mugen oils have an extra 0 on the end of their numbers.. meaning.. Mugen 10,000 is the same as ofna 1,000, and so on..

Now.. my kyosho runs best with 3 in the front, 7 in the center, and 1 in the rear.. lighter fluid means more diff action.. means that if one wheel is spinning.. one way.. the other is spinning the other way.. with lighter oil.. this is easy.. thicker oil.. will lock the diff a little more.. you will still get the diff action.. of one wheels spins forward.. and the other backwards.. but it will be harder to get it to do it.. understand.. ..

OK, on a high bite track.. you can run a thicker front diff oil.. so the front wheels will pull out of the turns.. you will get great exits out of the turns.. but when you go into the turns.. you will have a push.. reason.. is because.. say your turning left.. the left front wheel dont need to roll as far as the right front wheel to get facing the other direction.. if you got light oil in the front.. then the diff action which is easier.. with light oil.. will get the car around alot easier.. but if you got a heavy oil, its harder for the diff action to kick in.. which will make the wheels still turn.. and push the car forward.. until you get on the gas.. and which everway the wheels are pointing on power.. is the way the car will go.. great on power.. but bad push with thick front..

In the rear.. you run loose cuz you want the rear to follow the front..

 

[IBEXtrax]

Matt,
For Wenatchee’s loose dirt surface and big high speed sweeper, I set-up my MBX5 with thicker oil than most other racers. I use OFNA Diff-Lock Silicone Oil. 10,000 wtg in the center - 5,000 wtg in the front - 1,000 wtg in the rear. I should also mention, I run without the idler gear O-rings and that makes the diff oil feel thinner than it actually is.

Turbo,
See you Saturday at T.R.C.R.
First race of the new series.

I still haven’t figured-out the set-up for Tacoma’s smooth high bite clay surface; after running outdoors all summer.
I just can’t bring myself to loosen-up the rear end!

What oil do you run in that Swift?:redbuggy:

 

[jdavid2002]

I run 3,000 in the front...7,000 in the center...and 1,000 in the rear... With this setup i feel that the buggy comes out of the corners very strong and has a good level amount of push out of the corner on the front and a good even distribution of power from the center and plenty of bite from the rear...The track I run on is loamy but dries out by the end of the night and gets a little slippery and the setup seems to work great for both.

Hope it helps...:thumbsup: