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red baron

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I've done a search and could not find anything concrete. I just received my Revo today, couldn't get it started and so I took it to my LHS. The piston was getting stuck, they fixed it and gave it a slight tuning. Test drove it and no problems. I got home and once again I could not start it. I richened up the HSN and finally started up.

Now the problem is that if I give it a little (about 1/4) gas, it revs up, but won't move. Give it alot of gas and it suddenly lurches forward. I checked the brake adjustment, it's fine. I give it gas again, and it won't move at all, it just revs up, but seems to lack power, then it dies. Starts up again w/ no problem and the process starts again.

I adjusted the slipper clutch by first loosening (made it worse) and then tightening (tiny, tiny bit better, but still problem exists). I barely made it through the first tank of the break-in process, but would like to repeat it with better results. Could somebody help me, please? Thanks. :cheers:
 
Hallo Red Baron,

I am sorry for you problems.
Put car on the ground with shutted of the engine. try with your finger move with spur gerar and when the car starts moving. if is moving you keep your car with hand and try it again. This can be way to determine where is problem. when car is moving then problem maybe is not in transmition but in engine clutch. In this case try to look if the pads of clutch on engine are oiled and do same with the slipper clutch.

when your rc tx and rx are on and throtle is in neutral, is possible to move the car by hand?

What do you detect?
 
Yes, I can move the car by hand. I looked at the spur gear and whatnot and nothing appears to be broken. I'm going to my LHS in the morning to see what they can do. Thanks for the help.
 
And when you are moving with the spur gear, is cas moving? In this point you can see why the cas is not moving. But my tip is that problem will be in clutch on engine. If you have stock engine then this engine is using two pads system and there is spring. Hre can be problem too.
Let us know waht you will detect at lhs. To have lhs with traxxas parts is adventage. In my country is no traxas delaler :o(
Good luck.
 
Lets back up a bit.
Did you follow the brake in procedures outlined in the users manual?

It is extremely important to do so. If you haven't, I recommend that you do it now. Its may be to late but its worth a try.

On the Revo or T-Maxx there is a brake in period for the clutch, transmission and all the drive train parts as well as the engine. This will take around 5-10 tanks of fuel. As the engine brakes in it will start to produce more torque. The increased torque will activate the the clutches much sooner and the truck will respond sooner.

Once you have completed the brake in process, you can start to tune the engine for power. This is when you will see the true performance of the Revo.

Yes there is a possibility that there is a bad or broken part however it is unlikely.
 
FastEddy said:
Lets back up a bit.
Did you follow the brake in procedures outlined in the users manual?

It is extremely important to do so. If you haven't, I recommend that you do it now. Its may be to late but its worth a try.

On the Revo or T-Maxx there is a brake in period for the clutch, transmission and all the drive train parts as well as the engine. This will take around 5-10 tanks of fuel. As the engine brakes in it will start to produce more torque. The increased torque will activate the the clutches much sooner and the truck will respond sooner.

Once you have completed the brake in process, you can start to tune the engine for power. This is when you will see the true performance of the Revo.

Yes there is a possibility that there is a bad or broken part however it is unlikely.
Click to expand...

I tried following the break-in procedure, but it seems that there was a problem with the clutch to begin with. When I first started it, the clutch was engaging at idle and the brake had to be applied to stop it from rolling forward. I would barely gas it and it would lurch forward, then I would gas it again and it would not move and then it would die. Maybe I need a new clutch. The guy at the LHS says that the clutch is about $7. Need something for it already :doh:.
 
it doesn't sound like you need a new clutch I think you need to adjust your trim on your radio. Try that then go from there. How much fuel do you have through the engine? How did you break the engine in? Do you have a temp gun? If so what temps are yourunning at?
 
Red Baron, follow Fast Eddy's advice. The break-in needs to be fully completed before you can tell if there is something truly wrong. From what I can tell from your post you have not got past stage one on the break-in procedure.

I broke in my brand new Revo last week. Same thing as you; the first tank, had a hard time getting it move off the line even using over 1/4 throttle, and sometimes it would stall. It also would stall if I tried to start forward again if I stopped halfway in a u-turn. By the third tank all of the stalling and lurching and clutch grabbing went away. 4th tank, sucker was aching to get out of first gear. 5thtank, sucker was screaming!!!!!! All starting and clutch issues disappeared. :2cents:
 
Having the engine die is not uncommon for a new engine. Now If it is like the Tmaxx you need to set your carb properly. Haveing the truck"lurch" is also common. If you do the FOC that will help to eliminate that. BUT FOLLOW the BREAK IN PROCEDURE.
 
Soooo, it moving on the first acceleration, and then not moving at all when I accelerate again and stalling is normal? I barely managed to get through the first tank...it must have died at least 100 times. I even had stuff dripping from the exhaust pipe.
 
That stuff dripping off the exhaust is normal as you are running super rich to help break the piston and sleeve in. I take it this is your first Nitro RC?
 
jon2 said:
That stuff dripping off the exhaust is normal as you are running super rich to help break the piston and sleeve in. I take it this is your first Nitro RC?
Click to expand...

It is...I was just worried as the guy at the LHS said that the clutch was engaging at idle and it should not be, he said. The not moving and then stalling is normal? Let me take a picture of the clutch and see if I can post it.
 
red baron said:
It is...I was just worried as the guy at the LHS said that the clutch was engaging at idle and it should not be, he said. The not moving and then stalling is normal? Let me take a picture of the clutch and see if I can post it.
Click to expand...


Have you touched the needles on the carb at all? If ou haven't you may be seeing this problem due to incorrect idle setting. You want to set the carb to have a 1mm opening at idle and should not close up when you break.
 
jon2 said:
Have you touched the needles on the carb at all? If ou haven't you may be seeing this problem due to incorrect idle setting. You want to set the carb to have a 1mm opening at idle and should not close up when you break.
Click to expand...


The guy at the LHS gave it a tune up for our altitude, he said. He messed with the HSN, LSN, and the idle. Still running pretty rich. Here's a picture...is this normal?
521476_49_full.jpg
 
Not sure but I am hoping that you told your LHS that it was new and needed to be broken in as you might be dealing with a Jackass that wants to tune your engine for speed. That engine needs to be broken in. That gap you are showing..ask FastEddy and Humboldtblazer as I know they each have one.

Jon
 
jon2 said:
Not sure but I am hoping that you told your LHS that it was new and needed to be broken in as you might be dealing with a Jackass that wants to tune your engine for speed. That engine needs to be broken in. That gap you are showing..ask FastEddy and Humboldtblazer as I know they each have one.

Jon
Click to expand...

I told them it was new. He said that he tuned it for our altitude because when they are new, they are set up for sea-level. I'll try another tank and see what happens. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what happens. :cheers:
 
jon2 said:
Please check your idle.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that the wanting to move forward happened for awhile, then it no longer did that. It can sit there and idle forever, but when I accelerate once, it moves, then if I try and gas it again, it barely moves, but revs up, and then it dies, no matter how much gas I give it.
 
Check your drive train. You may have your brake set too tight. at idle can you turn the wheels freely?
 
Yeah, that's one thing that I did. I made sure that the spring barely touches the end of the knob. I could push it around while it was at idle. I even elevated the truck w/ a can of paint and the wheels would turn freely by hand. I would try and accelerate a little while it was in the air and the same thing would happen as when on the ground. Is this still pointing to need to break-in or something with the clutch?
 

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