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Build Thread D3MON's D-28 Drift

Do you guys like to see the design (Fusion) pictures? or just the printed actual parts?

  • Yes

    Votes: 9 100.0%
  • No

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .
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Yep won't work. Eye to eye is 33mm
Thanks so much for checking!! i hadn't been able to find measurements for them online. kind of sucks i dont have a LHS anymore, can't check against what they have in stock.
I've been thinking about it and for now i decided i am going to try to stick with these shocks and threadlock or something, or 3d print new bodies.
I am going to try to find some better ones for a more polished version though.
Few reasons i want to do this;
The main reason is i have these, and trying to follow the goal of using what i have. (battery situation would be much more easily resolved had i opted to buy one smaller, though i am going to get another one better suited, but thats for later.)
Another reason is that if i do decide to share it, you can get a set of 4 axles and shocks for the wltoys k969 in one package, and thats all you need from that car, the only other thing someone would need to build it is 1.4m ball studs from something like a Losi Micro B, or an SCX24.
I am trying to keep it from as few different cars as possible, last thing i want is to try to send someone searching through like 8 different parts lists for cars to get one from each and having to pay shipping each order.
 
You looked at Orlandoo shocks? They are for 1/28-1/32, but they might work. Helidirect deals with all kinds of small scale, so I'd look there.

Or just put a dab of blue loctite on those shaft threads.
Hadn't heard of that brand before, pretty interesting models, so far the shocks that i am finding are about 8mm longer than id like to be though at least they have the lengths on them lol. thanks for the idea!
going to be checking heli-direct and see if i can find lengths.
for this version going to be trying to make do with these, and use loctice, or print new bodies and hope they tighten down and hold better
 
Hadn't heard of that brand before, pretty interesting models, so far the shocks that i am finding are about 8mm longer than id like to be though at least they have the lengths on them lol. thanks for the idea!
going to be checking heli-direct and see if i can find lengths.
for this version going to be trying to make do with these, and use loctice, or print new bodies and hope they tighten down and hold better
Ask AI what the lengths are. Sometimes that is your only option for info. But it can be wrong
 
Ask AI what the lengths are. Sometimes that is your only option for info. But it can be wrong
yeah, the only one i can confirm are the Onisiki Kodama, but 65$ for a set is a bit steep for what I'm going for.
going to have to try with more specific cars i think
 
Well as major chassis design is getting close to completion, up next is the part of the of the desing/build that I've been dreading... Body posts/mounts
i always struggle with these, and as all i have are regular 1/4" cylinder neodymium magnets, it adds a bit extra challenge.
for now i am working with the idea of 2 in back and 1 up front.

starting with the back i think i settled on a design, printing now and probably assemble tomorrow as its getting late.
i am worried that i wont have clearance to the shocks. if so i can move them in some but might look weird.
1766121456537.webp

1766121469218.webp

magnets are pressed in from the bottom, with 1 layer above so it can't pop out the top.

i definitely had some struggle for the fronts, i believe i came up with a plan though it looks kinda goofy and wish i didnt have to see it (what the body is for right?)

1766121636636.webp

looks like a failed attempt at making a unicorn head.
1766121921200.webp


it is designed in a way that when i get access to a mill/cnc the front shock tower can be made of carbon fiber and will have a screw to mount from the back to hold to the tower and the screw underneath to fix it to the chassis.
(i have an idea for the rear as well but thats a tomorrow thing.)
i really want a way to make them adjustable, but right now i can't visualize it so will need new posts printed when i determine heights for now.

not really a huge update but still making progress.
 
Well as major chassis design is getting close to completion, up next is the part of the of the desing/build that I've been dreading... Body posts/mounts
i always struggle with these, and as all i have are regular 1/4" cylinder neodymium magnets, it adds a bit extra challenge.
for now i am working with the idea of 2 in back and 1 up front.

starting with the back i think i settled on a design, printing now and probably assemble tomorrow as its getting late.
i am worried that i wont have clearance to the shocks. if so i can move them in some but might look weird.
View attachment 260265
View attachment 260266
magnets are pressed in from the bottom, with 1 layer above so it can't pop out the top.

i definitely had some struggle for the fronts, i believe i came up with a plan though it looks kinda goofy and wish i didnt have to see it (what the body is for right?)

View attachment 260267
looks like a failed attempt at making a unicorn head.
View attachment 260268

it is designed in a way that when i get access to a mill/cnc the front shock tower can be made of carbon fiber and will have a screw to mount from the back to hold to the tower and the screw underneath to fix it to the chassis.
(i have an idea for the rear as well but thats a tomorrow thing.)
i really want a way to make them adjustable, but right now i can't visualize it so will need new posts printed when i determine heights for now.

not really a huge update but still making progress.
If a mill isn't accessible, maybe you could they these ppl for your carbon fiber needs.

https://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

I have bought CF from them in the past as well as purchased a few custom pieces.

They are fantastic ppl to work with and pricing is very reasonable imo.

As long as you're making FORWARD progress, its a still a good update! 😁😎👍
 
If a mill isn't accessible, maybe you could they these ppl for your carbon fiber needs.

https://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

I have bought CF from them in the past as well as purchased a few custom pieces.

They are fantastic ppl to work with and pricing is very reasonable imo.

As long as you're making FORWARD progress, its a still a good update! 😁😎👍
thanks for the link, might have to explore that option.
my friend has a CNC/Mill that he got as a kit, but he hasnt had time to set it up and get a vice quite yet. i am also wanting to make some of the parts out of aluminum as well. if takes too much longer though probably going to have to find someone to do it, or get blank sheets and cut it myself. (this is a back-burner item for now as i want to make sure no more major changes for adjustments/etc.

yeah progress is progress for sure! i just can't seem to design body mounts to look decent/flowing with the chassis, and have a hard time visualizing, especially with magnetic mounts.
 
thanks! i am really enjoying it for the most part. few "head scratchers" and banging my head against the wall on certain parts, but coming together to where I'm happy so far!

that is also an option, one of these days i will get a stainless nozzle to run CF or glass reinforced. would love it to be CF PETG or nylon/nylon CF, but i need the nozzle for CF, and i need a heated enclosure for Nylon to my understanding.
though carbon fiber sheet just has that "bling" look to it so that is the ultimate goal.

thanks for the link to those shocks, unfortunately those are the same shocks that i have, amazon sells those shocks and the axles for the wltoys k969 as a bundle for like 14$, and that is what i got for the wltoys build, and using on this chassis.
there is another option for slightly different shocks that i am thinking of trying that look like this:
1766169323993.webp

but i want to try to make the ones on it work if i can so i can keep the cost down.
 
The Drift ART body mounts are super slick, and simple as can be. You just use a hole in the bumper to mount them.
View attachment 260304
didnt really think of trying to collars like that, if i have to redesign will for sure have to try do something similar. at this time i have no front bumper sadly. that i can visualize a way to incorporate/attach to the chassis yet. though a redesign do so is definitely a possibility.

very very much appreciate the pictures, its hard to put into words what i want to look at from certain chassis to find pics and get a pic of it.
 
didnt really think of trying to collars like that, if i have to redesign will for sure have to try do something similar. at this time i have no front bumper sadly. that i can visualize a way to incorporate/attach to the chassis yet. though a redesign do so is definitely a possibility.

very very much appreciate the pictures, its hard to put into words what i want to look at from certain chassis to find pics and get a pic of it.
If there's anything I can help with pic wise from my Drift ART, just let me know, more than happy to snap a pic for you.
 
thanks to the pictures from @HPIguy came up with an adjustable rear body mount!
1766186889182.webp

and installed!
1766187125113.webp

there is some room to shorten the "posts" to go lower, TBD i may have to move it forward a bit, unknown if I'm going to get some interferance from the magnets with the ESC.

still trying to figure out how to do an adjustable one for the front though.
picture of it printed as it sits now (non-adjustable):
1766187286094.webp


still think it looks like a bad drawing of a challenged unicorn, but if it works it works guess.
 
Last edited:
while mounting the body i noticed an issue that i thought i had seen, while full lock on turn, that the trailing tire lifts off the ground because the caster of the hub. most of the setup sheets i have found have around 6-10 deg caster which it is currently at 8 deg, and i dont want to change that. At this time it is not adjustable as of yet though easily able to be implemented.
1766202347920.webp

hard to get a good picture, but it raises up a good ~0.25mm-ish,
i had also previously gave more tolerance to the bearing seat, though after just a few minutes of testing it is looser than id like it to be (mind out of the gutter) and gives too much play (...again). so re-printing the knuckles with the lower ones slightly higher, and with less clearance in the seat for a more press in fit.

if i have to go much further though i am a bit worried as already i am down to about 3mm of threads in the ball stud because of clearance to the axle shaft.
1766204622924.webp


@HPIguy if you have any spares or have one readily accesible, would you be able to measure how much threaded shaft is on the ball studs to your car?
I'm sure 3mm is enough but really curious.
though they probabbly centered the hole between the bearings on your and most designed models.

FIXED! still not a ton of clearance but hopefully enough. and its at its worst being limited by the shocks so under any compression should be better.
1766208980396.webp



still lost on my issue with the toe-gain on the one side... everything is re-printed at differing rotations (in-case of print bed weird-ness), all the holes for the pins are parallel in the fusion drawings and when drilled, yet still the one same side is off slightly. i dont know if its enough to matter, but it also messes with the caster angle ~1 degree. eventually this will be able to be tuned out with caster adjustments, but driving me mad figuring out why.

Another option i am thinking of tackling is makin it easier to adjust front camber (it is adjustable as is with removing the upper arm mount). two ways i can of to tackle this, first is to use the mini turnbuckles from the WL toys. this isnt as an ideal option as it will require another purchase for someone to complete the build, or, after looking through @HPIguy 's Drift Art build, is possibly trying to incorporate the shaft with setscrew technique for adjusting front camber. the only thing i dont like about that is that I'm shaky enough as it is and looks like very fine adjustments without accidentaly bumping it too far. (unless i am missing something.)
 
Feel a bit defeated, took some time designing up and getting "perfect fitting" rod ends that accept M2 threads so that i could use the turnbuckles from the WLtoys (thing) i have as a donor, just to notice as I'm putting it together that the both sides have right hand thread., so its essentially just a m2 screw with a nut stuck in the middle. guess i shouldnt be too surprised, but come on... why even have that there rofl.
1766304007122.webp

I guess in the end it wasn't a total waste as i am planning on having an option to change all link i have to M2 instead of M1.6 one doesn't have to acquire an extra screw kit just for the M1.6s.

i do need to spend some time driving it though both to learn to drift and so i know what design changes i actually need to make.
 
so its essentially just a m2 screw with a nut stuck in the middle. guess i shouldnt be too surprised, but come on... why even have that there rofl.
Its for ppl who like to make adjustments but hate change. 😉👍🤣
 
Front end suspension components have been reworked to accept M2 hardware, and also made to allow some adjustment to caster up front.
I believe the M1.6 would have been completely sufficient, and i am keeping the components in Fusion to revert back for any reason, but i wanted to streamline the required bill of materials to be all M2 hardware. (except the M3x30 partially threaded screw which acts as the idler/jack shaft.)
1766356085100.webp

Ran so many tests trying to get the most consistent prints for rod ends, though i could probably reduce speed below normal and a few other printed settings, the rod ends arent going to work correctly with the "height" where the ball stud sits being as tall as the flat spots on the part with the threads. i had initially had the flat spots specifically so it would all be flat on the print bed. but now with increased size for m2 hardware, there is a 0.25m difference, and if i shrunk up the flat spot, it is going to be severely reduced strength, and prone to stretching when screwing in the "turnbuckles".

Parts printed and ready to install:
1766368025542.webp

in changing the rod ends to the M2 version, they got a bit bigger around where the ball pops in, now before explained in a previous post, i had the issue with the ball studs from the WLtoys, the shank before the threads was also bigger, so i had to change the servo horn stud holes from M2, to M1.4 (from an scx24). did also have to shorten the threaded portion of the ballstud so they wouldn't hit the a-arms as scx24 studs are approximately 4mm, and the WLtoys ones were about 2.5mm.
1766374404150.webp

as the servo was out anyways, decided to shorten the servo wire (didnt need 3 miles of wire underneath the body) as well as use some liquid tape as some of the wires were fraying from constantly installing and removing over and over again.

Installed:
1766375670821.webp

you can kind of tell in the picture but Christmas came early compliments to the wife and we got new wheels!!
1766375744475.webp

they are 22mm so the front shock to tire at full lock clearance issue is back on the table.
also going to have to raise the shock tower back up approx 1mm, maybe 1.5mm.

I am introducing spacers for the bottom arms instead of relying on a screw for the adjustment to try to make them more consistent. eventually I'm going to add more sizes for preset different track widths.
That said, with that adjustment for the front i still need to try to re-visit the rear. have an idea to kind of "cheat" the clearances to the extended length rear spool shaft. not as desirable and eventually i believe i am just going to opt for adjustable driveshafts as in the Drift art kit.
 
Yep, more than happy to get you some measurements when I get home. Something else to think about is Ackerman. On my DA4 it's adjustable by simply sliding the servo backwards and forwards. But, as soon as you move the servo, your toe, camber, and caster all change also and you get to start over with tuning. Aren't drift chassis fun? 😁
 
Yep, more than happy to get you some measurements when I get home. Something else to think about is Ackerman. On my DA4 it's adjustable by simply sliding the servo backwards and forwards. But, as soon as you move the servo, your toe, camber, and caster all change also and you get to start over with tuning. Aren't drift chassis fun? 😁
really appreciate it!
i do have about 3.5mm of total adjustment to slide the servo forwards and back. right now its mostly far back, i have it as close to what i can see most drift builds that are running and not just flexing steering angle are doing.
i do need to redesign the front shock tower as the servo horn is really close to it so i dont have much room to slide it forward as the slider adjustment allows. may be asking for tips on drifting here before long lol
was able to run it a bit on my lunch break, starting more and more to get the hang of it, though i believe i am having either servo issues, or possibly RX or gyro issues. going to take the servo out of my scx24 to compare, but it gets really twitchy randomly. mostly leaning on servo because i know the wires are a pulled some from bending them back to mount the servo however many times i have designing it.
 
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