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crankshaft

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rustlerman2475

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hi I'm new to this site I've been into nitro r/cs for a long time but only recently got a nitro rustler 2.5 well about 3 to 4 mounths ago and i didnt break it in rite so i decided to check out the pisto and cylinder but i couldnt get the crankshaft out fo the life of me. do u have any tips that could help?
:bow:
 
If you have the backplate off, just give the extruding end of the crank a tap on the table and it should pop out.
 
crankshaft #2

no the flywheel end with the ball bearings wont come out and i can't get the piston ou because of it.
if i tryed hitting it on the table or with a malet wouldnt it go towards the back plate and break the connecting rod?
 
You should remove the piston before the crank.

You need to remove the flywheel first. Then hit the crank towards where the flywheel was.
 
i now that i need to take out the piston first but the crankshaft has a pin holding the connecting rod and piston to it and its getting in the way of taking out the crankshaft

they both kinda get in the way of eachothe
 
Just taking a stab here... You haven't had an engine apart before, right?

If not, you need to get the sleeve out, then the piston will be able to move enough to get the con-rod off the crank pin. The crank comes out the back of the engine after the piston/sleeve/con-rod are all out.

Typically, you have to have fiddle with it to get the sleeve out. Take the head off, put the piston at the bottom of the stroke, put the head of a ziptie in one of the sleeve ports, rotate the crank until the piston hits the ziptie. Then keep rotating the crank to let the piston push on the ziptie (that's caught in a sleeve port) to push the sleeve out part way, then take the sleeve out entirely with your hands. Don't mar it up with pliers or you will ruin it.

With the sleeve out, rotate the crank so the piston is as high as it can go, then with small needle nose, you should be able to wiggle the con-rod off the crank pin.

Pay close attention to the orientation of the piston and sleeve in respect to the crank case for when you put it back together. Only one way is right.

You put it back together in the exact opposite order. Crank, piston/con-rod, then sleeve, then head shims/engine head.
 
I think you forgot to say how to take off the crankshaft. What you need to do is:

After you've done everything that Olds told you, you need to remove the crankshaft. Make you have already taken off the clutchbell, flywheel, and anything else on that tip of the crankshaft. Gently push the crankshaft end onto a table and it should slide out. If your engine is old and it won't budge, I would use a mallet. Not the best thing to do, but it works.
 
ok that works well thanks guys i appreciate the help a lot :bow:

also this has nothing to do with crankshafts but i was looking into a supercharger for my rustler at rbinnovations.com and i was wondering if u guys know anything about them?
 
superchargers for these engines are a gimmick IMO. You would be better off putting $150 toward a better engine.
 
first u need to prep the engine for heating. take the carb, the starter, the back-plate, the cooling head ,and the motor mount off, and the flywheel/clutch assembly, and any rubber seals you can think of. heat up the engine to bout 250-350 degrees F in the oven if you wife allows you, and if she doesn't (like mine) i use a blow torch. the metal expands in the heat and it helps remove the stuff. once its heated use a popsicle stick or somthing like that to remove the sleeve. dont use any thing hard like steel because it will damage the aluminum. once the sleeve is out take the piston out (this part is easy). use a peice of wood and a hammer on the crankshaft end to take it out. or you can just bang the crank shaft end on the wood (if you do this you have a better chance of bending your crank shaft.) for the rear bearing just heat it and bang the crank case on the wood till it falls out. the front bearing is harder, take a peice of alluminum rod or a punch and tap on the middle of the bearing, DO NOT tap on the inside race, it will damage the bearing. to put the parts back in you can either freeze the parts just not the crankcase or heat the crankcase only, i guess you could do both but i never tried it. on the parts where its not an interfeirence fit you can use car synthetic oil for a pre lube.
 
Last edited:
Ohhhh, Jerry... You went and pulled a nine month old thread outta the attic. At least it doesn't have too much dust on it, but Rolex will notice none-the-less...
 
ya, but in the attic all the cigaret smoke from the rcnt staff makes the threads smell like marlbro
 

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