Couple of issues...

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cummins97

RCTalk Rookie
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Location
Missouri
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Little history:

Well I joined with the intentions to buy a revo a little over a year ago. Life took some unexpected turns and it didn't happen. But about a month ago it finally did! I bought my first truck! Revo 3.3 platinum! Bought it used with a brand new in box engine. It needed a reverse servo and a few other parts that weren't mentioned in the sale. Well got it going and During the break in period smoked the clutch due to not knowing how to operate the truck. So I went crazy and bought a bunch of parts. Put a integy 3 shoe aluminum setup in it. Ran the last 2 tanks of break in cycle, then started the tuning fun. Didn't like the tunability so I read around and ended up with a losi 3.4 carb. Runs crazy now and is a ton easier to tune. Took it out and was bashing around jumping ditches and stuff and the cvd on the right rear popped out? Put it back in and it came out again. I didn't notice as fast this time and when I stabbed the throttle it broke the spool (previously installed). So now a stock rear is on the way. Since its down I figured it's a good time to address the reverse servo.

What can I do to get this thing adjusted correctly to keep a servo in it? This is my 3rd one to go in it. Should I upgrade servo? Or?

Also why would the steel cvd pop out?

Here's a before and after of the truck.

When I bought it.
20150212_225422.jpg


How it is now. When it's in one piece of course lol
20150223_114548.jpg

20150223_114617.jpg
 
ok, firstly, are you setting the reverse servo with the electrics switched on? It does make a difference as it happens.

With the servo's powered, ensure that the reverse servo switch is off

Next, ensure that the reverse yoke shaft (the bit that pokes out the front of the gearbox), is pushed into the gearbox.

Next, attach the servo control linkage to the ball end of the reverse link and with that connected, seat the servo horn onto the reverse servo.

check the linkage by operating the reverse switch. Operate it a couple of times and ensure that when switched in, that there is no buzzing from the servo.

The reverse linkage has some give to it, so it does not matter too much about slight over-throw of the servo if you have one with a decent torque rating.

In all honesty, I ditched the optidrive unit and plugged the servo directly into the third channel. I also ensured the truck was stationary before flicking the reverse switch. Worked well too, but now with the rebuild, I intend to refit an optidrive unit for added safety of the trans.

With your rear right CVD, was it a stock plastic one or steel one?
 
You can make the truck much more reliable by doing away with reverse all together,it's one of the best and cheapest mods out there for a revo/t-maxx.....and i would throw that spool away,your gunna have costant problems with the driveline with it in there
 
Thundertiger, thanks for the reply!
I set up the servo the way you listed and it works perfectly! The cvd that popped out was a steel. I now have the stock plastics in it now.

Hotrodrob, that is/was the plan. I now have a stock rear. The foc will not happen for me. I mainly just bash around the farm so it's needed too much.


When I installed the new rear I noticed all the wheel bearings in the rear where locked up. Replaced them and took the front apart to check them, they were good and rolled freely. I did find a broke cvd in the front. One side of the pin was missing that goes in the cup. Replaced that also.
 
Sounds like your on the right track now man!
 
Boy I hope so lol! It's a ton of fun but it's broke more than its ran since I bought it. I think I need to get a big bearing kit and tear it completely down to nothing and clean and replace worn parts.

Can someone tell why there 2 spots for the hub to bolt on the rear a arm and only one on the front?
 
Cummins, no problem. Went through my revo using the same technique for ALL servo's, as I do with all my rigs in an effort to avoid using "trim" on the Rx.

As to the rear lower arms, they are designed to be used either as a lower left, or lower right arm. Simple, clever design as it only requires one mould for both sides.
 
Went through my revo using the same technique for ALL servo's, as I do with all my rigs in an effort to avoid using "trim" on the Rx.
Likewise, here. Every rig I've ever set up, including helis, gets done and redone till the linkages are as exact as they can be, the servos are all centered at zero and absolute MINIMUM trim is required at the radio.
 
I'm gonna get some bearings and fluids ordered and do a complete rebuild. Then set everything up like you guys are talking about. Think that'll do the truck good as its an older model and prolly hasn't been gone through in a good while.
 
When you're new in the hobby it almost seems scary to take something apart. Later on you don't even think of looking for your manual.

This becomes a common practice and you enjoy it...
e3.jpg
 
@Rolex

My revo 2.5 looks like that.... I call it the "mortal remains" as I used it for spares when running my 3.3......

going to be rebuilt and running again before long.


@Cummins

Last time (first and last time!!) I bought a used rig, I tore it to pieces the second I got it home.

New fluid to all shocks and diffs, rebuilt the trans, tore down engine to inspect and rebuiltdit, renewed the clutch, went through the entire driveline checking UJ's and UJ pins, checked all servo's & linkages, checked all bearings and either cleaned or replaced as required.

For piece of mind, I also installed a new Rx, Rx battery and a failsafe.

Never had a problem from day one, other than a WOT front left smack into a curb tearing the front bulkhead apart, smashing the upper and lower arms and bending the pushrod and steering links After rebuild from that incident, i somehow managed to plow WOT into a wall and tweaked the entire chassis. Parts wise, it only damaged the front bumper and cracked the bumper mount. A most odd crash as I expected serious amounts of damage......

Tuff rigs these Revo's.... If those crashes had involved my buggy, then I would have needed an entire new front end, new chassis, new front wheels, new fuel tank and a new glow plug.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top