Company to break-in engine and dyno?

[kwong2001]

In about two weeks i'll be getting a rody c5 circuit, which is around $650. Yep, it's a lot of money...and i'm intimidated by it

Is there a company that will break-in the engine and dyno it for me? I definitely need a dyno sheet so I can calculate my gearing accurately before I order the new gears.

I was thinking of maybe seeing if xtreme r/c cars would be interested in borrowing it for a review and dyno on the engine, since it'd be beneficial to both of us...but i dunno how well that'd work.

Or asking EB Mods if they could do the break-in and dyno for me.

Either way, I at least need it to be dynoed.

 

[petal2thametal]

sounds cool that idea with rc extreme. try it, maybe they like it.
and for company for breakin your engine umn wel the rc shop here did a breakin for a guy i know. they screwed up the engine. didnt take enuf time to correctly breakin the engine. and after a few month after brake in the engine started to lose compression.

if ya find a company willing to do it. make sure they do it correctly and take time for it. an engine that expensive shouldnt be screwed up.

 

[kwong2001]

Yeah, I want someone VERY reputable to touch the engine. Problem is finding someone with a dyno, there's only a few that I know of.

 

[bigfreak]

Can't you just ask someone else that runs the same motor in the RC you own? I think getting the gear ratios that way would be best.

The only dynos for nitro that work properly use air plane props to plot out a rough jaggy line. Then a graphing program comes in and smoothes out the jaggys and makes the nice smooth lines you see in RC Driver.

It's not like they hook the motor up to a machine, give it the gas and give you a print out. You have to change from prop to prop to prop and you have to give it a good run. When all is said and done, you've put a gallon to a gallon and a half of fuel through a $700 engine. It's also not easy going. The Dyno pushes the motor to the limits.

Don't ask someone to Dyno it. Get the info elsewhere. With this much money on the line get some help. LHS, Local Track something or someone to help you.

 

[kwong2001]

Okay, first off the engine is a hand modified. The problem I have is each one is going to be different. I've never seen a dyno of any rody modified engine, small or big block, and tehy'd be useless anyways.

I can't calculate gear ratios until I know where power peaks at. My gears are being custom made for speeds of over 100mph. If i'm 2000rpm's off from my initial calculation, my gearing will be screwed.

Dynos will push the motor to the limit, but it will still be under load, as in, similiar loads you would find when racing. They're not gonna blow up the engine. They'll break it in then do the dyno. And I know what the r/c dynos look like.

 

[Digital Liquid]

Sounds like a good idea to have someone break-in and dyno her for you. It would be a (+) to both parties involved, you and them. Give them a call.

 

[bigfreak]

It sounds like you're making a project car. Good luck with it. I thought maybe you were getting into 8th scale onroad or something. Other fellow onroad racers would be able to hook you up with info. Because this seems to be a special project, none of that applies. Good luck

KWong, give EB Mods a call. He picks up the phone and he's a hell of a nice guy.

 

[kwong2001]

Hmmm, well I got an e-mail back from Ashford Hobbies. They said they could special order the engine broken in and dynoed by rody roem. But it'll be an extra $100, so it'd now be a $725 engine.

That's probably the way to go. I can't think of anyone who'd be better to do it than the designer. Plus, it'd ensure the engine was modified properly.

 

[Skyline Racer]

Yeah, You really dont want to take a risk of messing up that new engine, They are picky.

 

[JESSE G]

Hmmm, well I got an e-mail back from Ashford Hobbies. They said they could special order the engine broken in and dynoed by rody roem. But it'll be an extra $100, so it'd now be a $725 engine.

That's probably the way to go. I can't think of anyone who'd be better to do it than the designer. Plus, it'd ensure the engine was modified properly.

Wow I had no Idea you could spend that much on an Rc engine!!! How many ponies "estamated" of course will that bad boy put out? You could build a 350 hp Chevy 350 for a little more than that hehe. Thats cool though man sounds like your going to have a super sweet Rc and very unique wish you luck on getting the motor broke in and ready to go properly

 

[kwong2001]

RB Concepts doesn't put out any ratings. It's pointless especially if it's a hand modified.

 

[JESSE G]

RB Concepts doesn't put out any ratings. It's pointless especially if it's a hand modified.

Ok, well I'm new to Rc nitro motors and I was just curious why this motor cost that much? I just thought it would have a ton of horse power and torque to me that would be important. Just trying to learn as much as I can about rc vehicals and parts.

 

[vbgagnon]

RB is known for their power and reliabilty. Take a very very strong engine and throw rody rohem(sp) at it and you have a stupid power engine with a top end like pam anderson. Rb doesn't publish their engines because they say they can not give an accurate reading so why bother. Another thing from what I've seen the top onroad engines are priced much higher then the offroad for some reason.

 

[retarded pilot]

jesse g

kwoong is buying that engine to enter a big speed contest hes custom building a 100mph+ car to enter .....and heres good luck to him on that venture

 

[JESSE G]

Thats cool!!! Make sense for the cost, if I could build somthing like that I would. I think I would drop it into a rail dragster with some giant meats on it hehe seems like those would be stable at high speeds since they have such a long wheels base and are aerodinamic. Blow there doors off kwong good luck!

 

[DerekB]

Can't you just ask someone else that runs the same motor in the RC you own? I think getting the gear ratios that way would be best.

The only dynos for nitro that work properly use air plane props to plot out a rough jaggy line. Then a graphing program comes in and smoothes out the jaggys and makes the nice smooth lines you see in RC Driver.

It's not like they hook the motor up to a machine, give it the gas and give you a print out. You have to change from prop to prop to prop and you have to give it a good run. When all is said and done, you've put a gallon to a gallon and a half of fuel through a $700 engine. It's also not easy going. The Dyno pushes the motor to the limits.

Don't ask someone to Dyno it. Get the info elsewhere. With this much money on the line get some help. LHS, Local Track something or someone to help you.

Hey man, I know you don't know and that's the problem. THere are real dynos. Please visit www.rc411.com and click on the "GOT HORSEPOWER" video to see on in action. Our dyno is as simple as putting it on and pushing full throttle. There are no prop dynos that are acurate or print out accurate HP numbers. Please don't advise people with the wrong information. I know you don't mean to mis-advise this guy or all the guys reading, but when our hard work to set this industry straight gets missed I get touchy. We've already sold over 12 dynos to engine manufacturers and racing teams...the prop dynos have sold none, and show you none.

Breaking in an engine is simple. Honestly if you are scared I'd buy an engine that's cheaper. While break-in varies from engine to engine it should be pretty close within a 1/2 gallon and our dyno takes 10 seconds to print a graph.

If you were local in Socal I'd say we'd help you break the engine in and run it on the dyno (although our March issue just did a test with the RB V12 modified) so you can see the graph. And also lots of dynos print out a little "jagged' because that's real.

I know I sounded a little "jerkish" but it's because the truth and answers are out there and I get confused when people don't seek it or understand it.

Derek
Xtreme RC Cars Magazine

 

[kwong2001]

Derek, I wouldn't say i'm scarred, more intimidated. It's an expensive engine, and I just don't want to chance screwing it up. The most engine i've had is a novarossi NS12S3. A $250 engine to a $650 engine is a BIG difference. Plus, break-in would be a pain in the HPI RS4 2 i'm running it in. The fuel tank is SMALL. So it'd just take a LONG ass time.

Either way, i'd still need to get the engine dynoed since without it, i'd have no idea what peak RPM's are. Might as well have whoever dynos it, to break it in also.

 

[DerekB]

Derek, I wouldn't say i'm scarred, more intimidated. It's an expensive engine, and I just don't want to chance screwing it up. The most engine i've had is a novarossi NS12S3. A $250 engine to a $650 engine is a BIG difference. Plus, break-in would be a pain in the HPI RS4 2 i'm running it in. The fuel tank is SMALL. So it'd just take a LONG ass time.

Either way, i'd still need to get the engine dynoed since without it, i'd have no idea what peak RPM's are. Might as well have whoever dynos it, to break it in also.

I'm still confused why you need a top of the line racing engine. 99% of us will never need the extra power or even notice it. You can get the Mugen engine for half as much and the un-modded engine pretty much matched the power of the RB. If you're not racing (Even if your racing with that HPI) it's not worth it. I'm trying to save you some dough!!! I'd suggest checking out the OS 18 TZT if you're looking for speed. We just dyno'ed it and it was amazing. It easily beat all the .12's we tested and came dangerously close to .21 performance (less torque).

Please please don't buy something you don't really need. You can buy a cheap OS (cheap in price) and blow the doors off that modded engine, or buy a Mugen if you're racing.

Just trying to help a brother out. Also we don't break engines in on the dyno. WE use the Serpent break-in bench or just run them in a car.

 

[Plaidfish]

Most people aren't trying to enter the 100mph RC contest......
Do you think he can get the same results for this contest he's entering from the cheaper engines? I'm interested cause I always seem to do pretty good w/ cheaper engines myself....I run RG in my buggy and fantom .27 in a mutant maxx.....both are considered "cheap" mills....but I like cheap, if it pops, OI vey....get a new one....

 

[kwong2001]

I'm still confused why you need a top of the line racing engine. 99% of us will never need the extra power or even notice it. You can get the Mugen engine for half as much and the un-modded engine pretty much matched the power of the RB. If you're not racing (Even if your racing with that HPI) it's not worth it. I'm trying to save you some dough!!! I'd suggest checking out the OS 18 TZT if you're looking for speed. We just dyno'ed it and it was amazing. It easily beat all the .12's we tested and came dangerously close to .21 performance (less torque).

Please please don't buy something you don't really need. You can buy a cheap OS (cheap in price) and blow the doors off that modded engine, or buy a Mugen if you're racing.

Just trying to help a brother out. Also we don't break engines in on the dyno. WE use the Serpent break-in bench or just run them in a car.

Like PlaidFish said, i'm buying it for the RCCA Speed Challenge. I just want the best possible engine for the contest. I'll be running a final drive of around 2.2-2.4, so a .21 would probably be better. Especially in the distance the car will be running.

I'll probably buy a 1/8 scale onroad sometime after the contest. So don't worry, the engine will get good use. I'm also buying all the normal chassis setup equipment for the contest, so that'll all eventually be used for racing.

Didn't mean to suggest you guys break in engines on the dyno. Just meant whoever dynos it, might as well break it in also. Especially since it'd be easier for them to do it than me.