Comments on Team Associated Shocks

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wdavidhicks

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I just received a set of Team Associated shocks for my Maxx. (Part# 1600). The instructions were well-written, the kit goes together easily and they look great.

Issue 1

They did forget to give me a shock tool they say should have been included in the kit. This item would be used to install the bushings, o-rings and snap ring into the lower end of the shock body. No biggie. I was able to install these pieces using one of the shock shafts and the empty plastic barrel from a Bic pen.

Issue 2

I wish a larger bottle of shock oil was included instead of the 3/4 ounce. At shock-filling time while I was supposed to be bleeding the air from under the piston I managed to create a couple silicone fountains. Nice. Consequently, I had enough oil for about 6-1/2 shocks.

The bottle is Associated's part number 5414, labeled as 30wt oil. Could I get away with buying more 30wt shock oil from my LHS? Has anyone run into snafus mixing different mfg's blends of shock oil?

Issue 3

In the final assembly stage they instruct you to remove a specific number of preload spacers from the plastic tree. Eight each of 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 inch. At the point of detailing the installation you're instructed to install TWO 1/4 inch preload spacers, in addition to a 1/16 and 1/8. Their photos of the assembled shocks don't appear to have 11/16" worth of preload spacers on them.

I have assembled them with 7/16" worth of spacers. One, it looks more like the photos. Two, because the T-Maxx has a high CG already. Three, who wants to cover those pretty blue anodized shock bodies with spacers?

In conclusion:

I'm waiting on aluminum arms from Integy which should be here in the next couple days, so I'm not really being held up by the shock oil issue. I'll do some ride testing with the preload spacers and tell everyone how it goes. I don't race it, just mostly use it to bomb around my neighborhood, local parks, construction sites or a friend's house.

Oh yeah, along in the same package with the shocks were MIP's shiny cvd's. I'll send in a picture when I get it all together.

Here's a tip:

One of our contractor supply stores in the Seattle area sells those steel pick sets like the ones that the dentist uses on your teeth. These picks, with their various configurations on each end, when used with a small flathead screwdriver are PERFECT for removing e-clips from hinge pins! I keep them bundled together with a magnet from an old hard drive so they stay magnetized.

I'm gonna shut up. Tell me what you guys think about the mixing shock oil thing.
 
As long as you are putting 30wt oil in and not 30wt silicone, you should be good to go. Oil is oil is oil, and the same for silicone. You are going to find that the 30 wt is not sufficient to the task soon enough; so you might consider going with a heavier oil and rebuilding them soon. Why do I say this? It sounds to me like you are adding quite a bit of aluminum to your T-Maxx. This will make for a heavier truck. You are going to want to go with some heavier oil and stronger springs. This applies only if you are not a racer. If you are a racer, you will want the lighter oil.

As for the shocks themselves, hopefully you got your hands on some stronger springs to go with them. Even with the pre-load spacers, the springs that come with those shocks are weak. How do I know? I have a heavier than normal T-Maxx and run that set of shocks. I use 60wt oil and Trinity springs (blue and black in a healthy mix) to give me a good setup for hardcore off road stuff and bashing. If I were racing, I'd do two things...lighten the oil and put the weak ass stock T-Maxx springs on. This would give me the shock action I would want in a technical course and the lower ride height.

Other than that, I think you will be happy with the shocks. I have had mine for over a year now, and they have only needed one rebuild and have handled just about everything I can dish out.

Have fun, and in case I didn't do it already...Welcome to RCNT.
 
Thanks for the welcome, SkyMaxx.

I learned a couple things since I made that original post. (One was the mistaken belief that shock oil and "silicone" were synonymous.) In Associated's kit instructions they have you install the #1 shock pistons. These are the pistons with the largest orifices. Did you install the #2's or #3's with your 60wt oil?

I'm going to take your recommendation on the springs either way. I've heard mention on another post somewhere that the supplied blue springs seem to be inadequate for most.

Yes, it's got some aluminum. I bought alum bulkheads and chassis rails first, simply as an effort to beef it up before I broke anything. (Bought Traxxas brand from my LHS, paid way too much!) I bought the arms and shocks because I snapped a stock arm and bent a stock shock in a crash. I added the MIP's to the list because one of the stock yokes had a split and it was getting sloppy. I figured it was only a matter of time before it exploded or the other ones began to crack under the stress.

And as pretty as those shocks are, I'm actually considering shock socks... They'll work better and longer when they're clean, right?
 
I built my shocks so long ago, I've forgotten which piston heads I used. I'm hoping that you picked up the aluminum shock caps (as they are sold separately--unless AE got smart).

The blue springs that come with the shocks are just like the stock springs that come with the T-Maxx...they suck. I use the upper spring retainers that come with the AE shocks and the upper spring retainers from the stock T-Maxx shocks together. I then use the stock T-Maxx (at least I did until I bought some RPM ones) lower spring retainers. This allows you to use larger diameter springs. The Trinity Blue springs work great for all eight shocks. I have a heavier truck and a pretty powerful engine, so I use two blue and two black springs in the rear. This keeps the wheelies a way.

Good choice on the CVDs. As for the placement of metal on the truck, there are places that are suited to metal upgrades and places that are best left plastic. I bash a lot and have gone through some dough to keep parts on my truck. If you'd like some suggestions above and beyond what you have or critiques of your set up, PM me.

As for shock socks, great idea. Clean shocks are happy shocks and they will go longer without needing a rebuild.
 

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