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Clutch Problem

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Rat Now

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I recently put some really big tires on my 3.3 Tmaxx. It surprisingly pulled them really well. I ran it for about a tank full and when it came to a stop for a temp check it stalled. When I tried to restart it I noticed all the wheels were spinning when I engaged the ez start. I'm assuming the clutch is gone...possibly from the big tires. Is there a better upgrade to the stock clutch?
Thanks,
"Rat"
 
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You can get all kinds of clutch kits for the maxx, buku, fironi, works, Sworks. You could try changing your gearing so that your not generating so much heat in you clutch and slipper components. 1 of 2 things usually happens when I use oversized tires, 1. my clutch spring/springs snap...break. or 2. my clutch spring/springs pop out of the groove on the flywheel nut, causing my clutch shoe/shoes to remain in contact with the clutch bell <although when this happens I've noticed my R/Cs stall when coming to a complete stop.

There was one occasion when I got a pebble caught in the clutch bell, but I figure that rarely happens.
 
Alexander_0_1 said:
You can get all kinds of clutch kits for the maxx, buku, fironi, works, Sworks. You could try changing your gearing so that your not generating so much heat in you clutch and slipper components. 1 of 2 things usually happens when I use oversized tires, 1. my clutch spring/springs snap...break. or 2. my clutch spring/springs pop out of the groove on the flywheel nut, causing my clutch shoe/shoes to remain in contact with the clutch bell <although when this happens I've noticed my R/Cs stall when coming to a complete stop.

There was one occasion when I got a pebble caught in the clutch bell, but I figure that rarely happens.
Click to expand...

This sounds like what happened to mine. Which type of clutch is preferred for a Tmaxx? What gearing should I shoot for?
Thanks,
"Rat"
 
I was told 4:1 was a good place to start if you were going to run oversized tires, when explained to me it was simply put that you clutch bell should turn 4 full rotation to every one rotation of your spur gear. As for clutches the only one I can truthfully recommend is buku, but it was for a savage not a maxx.
 
Buku in fact does make a clutch that will fit trx engines jump down a tooth or two on your cb and all will be well
 
Rat Now said:
This sounds like what happened to mine. Which type of clutch is preferred for a Tmaxx? What gearing should I shoot for?
Thanks,
"Rat"
Click to expand...

I know little...okay, nothing....about the Tmaxx. However, there are some general things you want to consider about clutch setups. The simple version is it comes down to your engine and environment in which you run. Ideally you are looking for something that will engage at the right RPMs--you want progressive torque to match your powerband and traction.

If all you are needing out of a clutch is reliability and longevity, then get a set of composite shoes and throw some 1.0 springs on it. Alexander noted some great brands (and I'll throw M2C into that mix). ;-) That should work fine for you. For the most part, clutches are a commodity. Tuning options are what sets them a part. However, you'll want to have need for those options before shelling out that kind of cash. I hope this makes sense.
 
Hey thanks for all the input...yep, I'm looking for reliability! Not a race truck just a get out and have fun truck. I have several trucks with large tires but only a couple of Tmaxxs. The others are Savage Xs. Havent had a problem with the Savages. So I can just get the stock replacement pads and spring and just change the ratio and it should last a little longer? I just checked and it has a 20 on the cb now. Don't know if that's stock or not.
thanks,
"Rat"
 
If you wanna save cash go with a stock or imo the mip clutch also you can save $ and just go up 2 teeth on the spur, dont forget to set the slipper properly
 
Buku has race tuneable clutches/flywheels, as well as standard flywheels
The difference being the race tuneable one have weights that are removable, or install-able depending on track conditions, while the standard look much like the stock flywheels, only made of better materials.
 
It has a 72 spur on it so I need to go to from a 20 to a 22 cb?
 
No like I said before down on the cb or up on the spur for low end and the opposite applies for top end
 
Larger spur = more torque = cooler running engine
Smaller clutch bell = more torque " " "

Smaller spur = more speed = higher engine temps.
Larger clutch bell = more speed = " " "
 
Lmao,....I always have extra spurs of different sizes and a couple cb's, its been a long time since I've ran that tranny you have and i can't remember if you can get a 74t spur or not
 
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Yeah...I only run the newest and the lasted tech....:hehe:
 
Alexander_0_1 said:
Buku has race tuneable clutches/flywheels, as well as standard flywheels
The difference being the race tuneable one have weights that are removable, or install-able depending on track conditions, while the standard look much like the stock flywheels, only made of better materials.
Click to expand...

Interesting...I was unaware Buku had adjustable flywheels. I have three of the M2C variable weight flywheels---so might try out Buku as they have a great reputation no doubt. I do prefer 4-shoe (at least on my truggies). As much as I love M2C (and Mitch Looper has taught me a lot) they can be a pain to change out, compared to other brands at least.

RatNow, have you verified you did indeed snap a clutch spring? I'll be curious to know what you find.
 
Yep...took it apart as soon as it was suggested that was the problem. Spring was broke into.
 
Strc also has a good 3 shoe clutch I picked one up for my maxx , , haven't run it yet but it looks good and it was like 20 bucks from amain
 

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