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Clutch Bell ?

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NJRC

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When replacing the clutch bell, should the gear spin freely or should it grab a bit?

I just started to replace the plastic spur gear to a steel gear and I am not sure about the tighness of the screw that holds down the bell gear.

Thanks
 
Ummm it should honestly spin somewhat freely seeing as how the clutchbell rides on Ball Bearings it should definately ride most smooth. You don't wanna tighten down the screw too much. I generally go with snug and not real tight. Different washers and things might aid in this for ya.
 
It should roll freely, if it doesn't you got problems try lossening the screw and it should roll freely!
 
You need to adjust the engine so that the clutch bell meshes with the spur gear, but both must spin freely when you turn the spur with the engine off. Best way to make sure you have the spacing properly is to put a piece of white paper in between the gears, when installed the papers must run b/w the gears with relative ease. If the mesh is too tight, you could fry your gears. Also check that your clutch bell is installed correctly, it should also spin freely from the fly wheel.

:cool:
 
the gear mesh is critical. If not correct you will ruin the steel spur gear and the clutch bell. And the bell should spin freely as is the spur gear. And rember the loctight on the engine screws.
 
The screw holding the cb on should be tight but the cb should spin freely on the shaft. Use an ofna clutch shim kit to obtain the proper fit on the engine and make doubly sure that you align the mesh properly or you'll eat your spurs. Use blue loctite on all the screws to keep them from coming loose.
 
just out of curiousity,.....Should the clutch bell have any movement in and out?
I know that on my TMAXX there is NO movement in and out and was wondering if the Savage was different. I use a three shoe on the Savage.
If it is NOT supposed tohave any movement in and out, how do I fix the problem if there is one.....shims??
 
Usually, you have about .5mm of play in and out. It gives the bearings some breathing room...

I use shims behind the flywheel to get it where I need it and I use shims and a washer on the screw that goes into the crankshaft to hold the cb on. In the end, I normally end up with just a little play. If it's binding at all, it will eat up your bearings in a short while. I found that out the hard way. The first one I did, I didn't leave any slop, but the cb still rolled, but not as free as I thought it should. I was in a hurry and slapped it in the truck. 5 tanks later, I was picking my cb up off the ground as the bearings toasted completely... should have taken my time.
 
I agree with all the other guys. The clutch bell mounting screw should be tight in the crankshaft (also use thread locker) and the bell should spin freely. Make sure you set the clutch bell to spur gear mesh properly. When the mesh is correct the spur/bell gear will spin without any binding (mesh too tight) and no "clicking" or slipping (mesh too loose).
 

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