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clutch bell help

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dead man

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hi got a few problems with my clutch bell and shoes,I'm running a 16 tooth vented clutch bell,49 tooth spur gear and the engine is a wasp .28,now the problem my clutch bell gets that hot it totally melts the shoes then the spur gear, my engine is tuned just right the brakes are not binding etc can't find what is wrong or do i just get alloy shoes and titanium spur gear
 
Wow, that is pretty damn hot to melt shoes and spur gears. I run the Wasp .28 (18T CB & 47T Spur). I don't come near to getting that hot. It sounds like you probably have some binding issues.

You said you already checked your brakes, so that is not the problem. The only thing I can think of is that your CB & Spur might be binding and causing too much friction. Check the mesh b/t the spur and clutch bell. A tight gear mesh (the spur cannot 'wiggle' when installed) has too much friction and will cause the engine to work too hard and melt the spur gear from the friction. Make sure it is not too tight.

Use a small piece of normal notebook or copier paper. Tear about a 8-inch strip that is about a 1/2-in wide. Now fold it in half and put it in between the CB and spur, and tighten the motor onto the motor mount. Remove the paper, and that is how much gear mesh you should have.

Later....
 
Digital liquid is correct on setting the proper mesh.
Another thing you should check is the clutch itself. If it's been getting hot, and everything he mentioned above is correct, remove the clutch bell and scuff up the shoes and the inside of the bell with light sandpaper or a green scrubby pad. If it's glazed, it will slip too much causing major heat.
 
Also, check your cb bearings. If it has gotten that hot, they could be well on their way to bearing heaven.

You may be pinching them when you put the cb bolt in. Make sure that when the cb bolt is cranked down that you have about .5-1mm of play when you push/pull on the cb. If you don't have play, the bearings are under constant pinch which will create heat.
 
found the problem my brake disk on my twin disk brake set up (the one furthest away from the gearbox)was touching the clutch bell dont no how or why just took it off for now so only one disk
 
I've heard that from other guys. What gearing are you running with the cb/spur? I was running 14/52 and clearance wasn't an issue. The disks became my problem. After a gallon or so, the center hexes got worn and caused the disks to rotate at an angle, so it was acting like I was tapping the brakes when on throttle.
 
I'm running 16/49 its been on for a while then just started going wrong a few days ago the hex that the disk goes on is not worn at all neither is the disk dont make no sense
 
Another thing you might want to consider. If you are running a standard two-shoe clutch, consider upgrading to a three-shoe clutch setup from HPI. I've notcied with the power these engines generate, they tend to be pretty hard on the clutches. I wouldn't doubt that your clutches may be slipping causing unecessary heat build up. The three-shoe clutch will not only give a better grip on the clutch bell, but it will give you much more postive response with this monster mill. The parts list for the three-shoe clutch is listed below. I hope this helps.

- HPI Heavy Duty 3 Shoe Clutch Shoes w/Springs (HPI Part# 87151)
- HPI 3 Pin Flywheel & Pilot Bushing (HPI Part# 86271)
- Ofna Clutch Bell Shim Kit (Ofna Part# 10099) **Recommended**
 
Good idea SB, you might want to consider some aluminum clutch shoes. OFNA has a nice set that I just scooped up and am going to drop into my savage.

Tower has them on sale for $12. Regular price is around $24. Damn, I just checked and they are back to regular price. They were just on sale last week. It's a good thing I got them when I did. Anyway here is the link, you might find them cheaper on ebay or somewhere else:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHWJ3
 
sorry i forgot to say I've already got a 3 shoe clutch and got to day alloy shoes
 
I've already burned out my spur gear after only 4 tanks of gas. I will be installing a new spur gear this weekend. Let me see if I get this right. I should take a piece of notebook paper , fold it in half, which makes it the thickness of two pieces of notebook paper, and mash this between the spur and the clutch bell, then tighten the motor mounts down. Should I make sure that there tight together with the paper and no play? After removing the paper I am assuming there will be some play, and this will be the correct gap I should have? Another side note - my friend broke his steering servo and went and bought the metal one that everyone recommends. I am told to also upgrade the servo saver. Which servo saver should I buy? Thanks for the help.
 
dirtyape said:
Let me see if I get this right. I should take a piece of notebook paper , fold it in half, which makes it the thickness of two pieces of notebook paper, and mash this between the spur and the clutch bell, then tighten the motor mounts down. Should I make sure that there tight together with the paper and no play? After removing the paper I am assuming there will be some play, and this will be the correct gap I should have? Another side note - my friend broke his steering servo and went and bought the metal one that everyone recommends. I am told to also upgrade the servo saver. Which servo saver should I buy? Thanks for the help.

You got the meshing correct. Too tight of a mesh will create binding and hamper your engine performance. Too loose of a mesh will cause the spur to easily strip. After awhile you will simply be able to mesh it by how it feels when you spin it with your hand.


Here is a sample pic showing how to mesh it. Note: they didn't fold the paper in this example. It is recommended to fold the paper w/ the savage.
ht7_two.jpg



As far as a servo saver, I believe the new one out by HPI is pretty good. It is item #87197. I have the old school Monster Pirate mod on mine.
 
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