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cluch bell ?

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BOUTCH

BOUTCH

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:violin: sorry to bother you guys again but...in terms of acceleration, whats the diff between 15 and 18 teeths clutch bell ??
 
Generally, the lower the tooth-count on the bell, the more torque (acceleration, low end, etc) you'll gain.

If you switch to a higher tooth count on the bell, you'll gain top end and loose bottom end. The motor will also have to work harder to get the model moving.

The same applies to spur gears, but in reverse. The larger the spur, the more low end you'll get, and vice-versa.
 
HeartBreak said:
Generally, the lower the tooth-count on the bell, the more torque (acceleration, low end, etc) you'll gain.

If you switch to a higher tooth count on the bell, you'll gain top end and loose bottom end. The motor will also have to work harder to get the model moving.

The same applies to spur gears, but in reverse. The larger the spur, the more low end you'll get, and vice-versa.
Click to expand...

Is there more risk of braking something...and is it normal that the 15 tooth cluchbell spacer gets under the cluch bell and the 18 tooth one does'nt ???:puke:
 
In general, there shouldn't be an increased risk of breaking anything, just from changing the clutch bell.

As for the "spacer", it depends on the maker of the bell. If they're both HPI branded, you should have no issues with the spacers.
 
HeartBreak said:
In general, there shouldn't be an increased risk of breaking anything, just from changing the clutch bell.

As for the "spacer", it depends on the maker of the bell. If they're both HPI branded, you should have no issues with the spacers.
Click to expand...

SWEET !!! Thanks alot friend :cheers:
 
Run the 15 with a 52t spur for lowend torque,run the 18 with a is it a 48or49t? spur for topspeed.
 
HB, nice post...i even learned from that one...

Boutch, just remember to watch the engine temps when switching to the bigger CB. with the engine needing to work harder, the temps will rise
 
savagefan04 said:
HB, nice post...i even learned from that one...

Boutch, just remember to watch the engine temps when switching to the bigger CB. with the engine needing to work harder, the temps will rise
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up !!!! i'll will keep an eye on it for sure...:worship:

joneser4u said:
Run the 15 with a 52t spur for lowend torque,run the 18 with a is it a 48or49t? spur for topspeed.
Click to expand...

Thank you ! And i beleive it is the 49t...i think
 
You have to look at the overall gear ratio between the spur and the clutch bell. Here is an old gearing chart:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/savagegears.jpg

A numerically lower gear ratio = less acceleration, more top speed.

A numerically higher gear ratio = more acceleration, less top speed.

The results also depend on the motor you use and the surface you run on. You might find that a numerically lower gear ratio does not give more top speed if your motor is weak or you are running on rough terrain.

Not all combinations of Spur and Clutch Bell will mesh properly. The chart I linked to above does not include the newer gearing options (47T Spur, 19T and 20T clutch bells). Gear ratio is obtained by dividing the Spur teeth by the Clutch Bell teeth.

I run 47T/19T with my current motor and my rig spends 90% of its time on a race track.
 
Last edited:
rossb said:
You have to look at the overall gear ratio between the spur and the clutch bell. Here is an old gearing chart:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/savagegears.jpg

A numerically lower gear ratio = less acceleration, more top speed.

A numerically higher gear ratio = more acceleration, less top speed.

The results also depend on the motor you use and the surface you run on. You might find that a numerically lower gear ratio does not give more top speed if your motor is weak or you are running on rough terrain.

Not all combinations of Spur and Clutch Bell will mesh properly. The chart I linked to above does not include the newer gearing options (47T Spur, 19T and 20T clutch bells). Gear ratio is obtained by dividing the Spur teeth by the Clutch Bell teeth.

I run 47T/19T with my current motor and my rig spends 90% of its time on a race track.
Click to expand...

Sweet !! thanks for the link Rossb:cheers:
 
that is going to give you more torque and not more top end, I know the savage will already flip over on its own.
 
I would not get that exact bell. Get the hardened bell instead, as it's a lot more durable. Otherwise, you'll be looking at a busted bell in a fairly short time.
 
HeartBreak said:
I would not get that exact bell. Get the hardened bell instead, as it's a lot more durable. Otherwise, you'll be looking at a busted bell in a fairly short time.
Click to expand...

Ya but they recommend the racing one for the steel spur...so what do i do ???

Wich one shoul i get from the couple of pages off tower hobby...wanna be sure !!

Is that one good ?:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL93&P=7 And apparently my savage x

came with the 15t heavy duty clutch bell...is it the same thing has the hardened one ? If its the same thing...I'm not gonna

get a new one !!
 
Last edited:
Nope; even though it's listed as "heavy duty", it's not hardened. It's kind of the difference between a butter knife and a samurai sword in a knife fight. You don't want something overly soft, because sooner rather than later, it's going to get broken.
 
but he can still run it, its not saying you can't run it, he is just saying it will eventually break.
 

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