cheapo maxx upgrade??.

[Zippo25]

I'm new to the forum and this place is awesome. I was thinking of adding a new mill to the maxx in the near future and i keep reading threads about twisting the driveshafts and "axles"? anyways, I've been looking into maybe adding revo shafts to the max. but finding conclusive info on that conversion has proved to be difficult. So, myself, being a student where the cashola is low i got to thinking.. could you not fill the hollow "male" sliders with something like fiberglass resin? and then add resin to the outside of the "female" side then slide a piece of like copper over it? I was thinking that by doing this, you could maybe keep themfrom being so fragile. Any thoughts or criticism? Thanks in advance

Jo

 

[HeartBreak]

It sounds like you'd be adding too much rotating mass/wieght. To be honest, if you're going to upgrade the driveshafts, you'd be a lot smarter to ebay up a set of MIP CVD's. You can usually get these in a kit with a set of shocks for around $90 or so (I forget). Overall, that's perhaps the best upgrade you can do, outside of a forward-only conversion (costs $15 on ebay), and perhaps a set of stronger transmission gears.

After that, you'll be ready for almost any engine.

 

[olds97_lss]

As for filling the "hollow" part of the male piece of the shaft, some guys used to put in a wooden dowell. You want to smear CA glue on the dowell, then stick it in and let it harden. The assemble the axle.

 

[ZANDOR]

I will agree with heartbreak on the rotational mass being too much..Adding weight to the drives will cause damage to the diff's..And a loss of power.Go with the mip cvd's and cva's.
This will lessen the rotational mass adding more power to the wheels.

 

[SVORay]

I would probaly deal with the twisted shafts my self. The deal about upgrading to aftermarket parts is, when you break one, it's that much more to replace them over stock parts. Now there is a few things I would go aftermarket on a Tmaxx and that would be: FOC, Hex screw kit, aluminum skid plates, and aluminum bulk heads. Those phillip screws makes working on the Tmaxx a little challenging at times and the reverse seems to make it jerk around a lot at low speeds.



Just my newbie two cents.
Ray

 

[Zippo25]

i've been looking at the robinson trans gears, but when upgrading your trans to metal gears, do you need the metal case too? I know abou the stripping problem most people have with the bottom screws in the plastic one but other than that are there any other real benefits in an alloy one??

 

[Nubster]

I have an article from another site that explains the Revo swap and it doesn't seem that hard actually. Keep in mind, you want to upgrade parts to make your truck more durable, but you need to keep a weak link in there somewhere. It is best to let it be something that is cheap and easy to fix such as drive shafts.

 

[Plaidfish]

Zippo: The alum. case is good to have (but not necessary) because it reduces flex in the tranny...you may not notice it but when it's under load there is close to 1HP (that's stronger than you are I'm sure) force acting on that case....when it loads up it can twist just a lil and gear mesh will be affected....the tranny case twisting isn't going to be as noticable as the diff cases are under load.....those are one weak link in the maxx you should change before going to bigger mills for sure....

Nubster:
The axles are cheap but they are also a place you really don't want breaking.....once you've used CVDs and see how much stronger they are you'll never want to deal w/ plastic slider axles again.....

 

[Nubster]

What else would you recommend as a weaklink in the driveline?

 

[Plaidfish]

shim the stock diff gears to limit any play..FREE
FOC kit....15 bucks
CVDs for sure.....if you look on fleabay they have good deals on these since the maxx is considered "Old" for 115 you can get the front / rear CVDs and Powerline shocks w/ titanium turnbuckles...best upgrade deal going on now
RPM arms...40 bucks
Aluminum Bulkheads.....again seek and ye shall find....about 50 for both sets
Aluminum CHassis Braces...20 bucks
RRP dual slipper Spur....15-25 depends on where you get em

all around 250.....but you'll have one hell of a basher or racer when you dump a bigger mill into it.....
also the steering servo is a good upgrade to make.....this is a pricey hobby and if you are unsatisfied w/ stock vehicles you better be preppared to drop coin......I'd say run it til the part breaks....as needed replace these items w/ better ones....your truck is still fun to play with even w/ stock stuff on it but it sucks seeing it sit therer because you took it apart and now you "Gotta have" that hop up part......

 

[SVORay]

I'd say run it til the part breaks....as needed replace these items w/ better ones....your truck is still fun to play with even w/ stock stuff on it but it sucks seeing it sit therer because you took it apart and now you "Gotta have" that hop up part......

I'd say that is the best advice you're going to get right there


That is pretty much what I do since you can go for ever with this hobby. And besides, the Tmaxx dispite it's age, it's still a blast to play with. I bash a stock one around all the time...yesterday I found some dirt hills and was launching it 4 feet in the air. The only thing I broke was a tie rod end...well I think I finnished off the 2 year old body on it. It's cool, my friend said he wanted a new body anyways lol


Ray

 

[Zippo25]

LOL the maxx is funny that way though. i was bashing my stocker one day trying to show off for some kids.. Drove it off this 6 foot quarter pipe wot. and brokew nothing, then cartwheeled it in my backyard and destroyed both bulks lol ah well.

 

[bustedgears]

Keep in mind that alot of aluminum parts will make your truck heavy.

I haven't yet, but I'd check out those grey plastic parts from traxxas. They're supposed to be significantly stronger than the black ones.

 

[Zippo25]

I E-mailed Traxxas about the grey parts, so maybe we'll get some info on them. I know this is changing the subject but does adding the rpm bulk braces help keep em strong? I know if i go aluminum then i gotta get metal skids so that the bulks dont snap the chassis, so i was wondering if there was any way to strengthen the stock ones? Wish RPM would release some bulks!.

Jo

 

[Plaidfish]

if you get aluminum Bulks the RPM braces will be fine.....the reason RPM doesn't make Bulks is their plastic is TOO flexible.....it wouldn't drive right if every bump you hit spit a a-arm pin out.....or worse dislodged the diff case.....the stock ones are hit or miss literally...I've seen my truck come crashing down off a 3 fthigh ramp from 8 ft in the air and nothing broke......but I've also cartwheeled once and snapped a bulk..... :shrug:
if you want bulletproof front / rear on your maxx get the fastlane or AtomicRC bulkless set.....that replaces the bulkhead AND the diff case & collar into one unit...