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Chassis flex. - gear mesh problems.

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lykan

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Ok, I've been running into this gear mesh problem, I really thought my motor mounts were moving, or sliding. Upon some closer inspection it looks to me like the rear part of the Chassis flexes buggering up the gear mesh. This would lead me to belive that's the reason I eat CB's for breakfast lol.

The question being what's needed to resolve it. I have some nice skids, but they are aluminum, and so pretty I dont want to muff them up. I also have some aluminum chassis braces.

Would just the chassis braces do to stabilize the chassis enough to stop the gear mesh issue? I don't want to tear down the whole thing if I dont have to. If I can just stuff the chassis braces under and be good I'm all game for that..

Let me know what you all think, and how you resolved yourgear mesh/flex issues.
 
i thought i was havin the same problem as u, but it turned out it was the screw that hold the engine to the engine mount, did u check those? that solved my problem. as far as chassis flex, aluminum chassis braces should help. are u running the stock chassis?

later
 
stock .15 chassis yup checked those thanks tho :)
 
Is it a Tmaxx? I started out with the .15, and even before I upgraded to the 2.5 I added the aluminum center skid plate, and rear skid. Solid. With that center skid screwed to the frame rails, it's like plywood, several layers sandwiched together to make it rigid. I recommend it.
 
The best thing you can do is:
1. Aluminum chassis braces with aluminum center skid (this creates a box beam in the center of the chassis that is pretty solid).
2. Add aluminum bulkheads with suitable bulkhead braces and you make the ends of the chassis into a pretty solid structure.
3. Add a thicker chassis plate and you are now about as flex free as you will get with this set up.

Beyond the above, you could always try something more creative...but the above worked just fine for me (minus #3...never needed a thicker chassis plate with #1 and #2 in place).
 
Thanks Skymaxx, Rolex, ad Maxx. I'll toss my aluminum skid in the center.. belive it or not I misplaced it and forgot about it until nowm
 
Once you install the skid everything should be fine, if not there are a couple more things to look at.

Once again check the Motor Mounts. There may be a hairline fracture that you are missing. I have had that issue before and it drove me crazy. HB ran into the same issue a while back as well. It wont hurt just to change it.

Very carefully examine the transmission input shaft. Look to see if its bent in any way as well as testing it for play due to a fried bearing.

If your running the stock slipper it may be time to upgrade that as well to an RRP setup. I have seen warn slipper pegs, bent slipper plates and bad springs to toucher jobs on spurs.

Look for bad bearings in the Clutch bell and the overall condition of the gears on the bell. Also check not only the mesh but the forward to rear alignment of the two gears.

The Mesh is part of 2 separate sub-systems of the truck. Not only does the mesh need to be set but both systems, the engine and transmission need to be functioning for everything to work properly.

No one has mentioned checking the transmission screws yet.

Let us know.
-Ed

PS, What are you doing up at 4am?
 
Originally posted by FastEddy


No one has mentioned checking the transmission screws yet.

Let us know.
-Ed

PS, What are you doing up at 4am?
Click to expand...

I was going to earlier, but i got side tracked workin on my t-maxx and my new goodies. I only run 4 screws holding my tranny to my chassis when there is suppose to be 8, some of the screws are stripped out. i think i remember someone using metal inserts(kinda like what u get with new servos). drilling the whole so u could use the same size screw with the metal insert, and that fixed the stripped problem. Didnt someone have a t-maxx aluminum tranny case for sale?

with Fast eddy mentioning the clutch bell bearings, i know when i fried my clutch bell bearings, it broke the shaft off my clutch adaptor nut. so it oculd of bent that, if it was broke, then u wouldnt be gettin any power to the flywheel.

later
 
Killer,

I checked the tranny just now. It seems that the screws feel tight, but the're not. The tranny moves just enough to get the mesh messed up. I havent had a chance to fix it yet, But I will this afternoon. I think those chassis braces are going in with the alum center skid today. That should solve two problems.

One the tranny was loose, I have no idea why maybe it came loose, or I just didn't snug it up enough.

Two the chassis flex. I know the plate flexes, and the engine leans forward when I put pressure on it. I thin a new motor mount is in order.

The stock motor mounts BITE in my opinion. Any idea of a name of a better one? I am hoping my LHS has one in stock--an aftermarket one. The aluminum/pot metal stock ones seem to strip pretty easy.

4:00am.. I changed what I eat drastically, I've been overwhelmed with energy ever since. I got to bed around 9:00-10:00. At 4:00 on the dot the last few days, it's been just like an alarm clock. I sit upright in bed feel totaly refreshed alert focused and good to go. I havent felt like this since I was like 17 lol, I hope it lasts.
 
Last edited:
Sorry Eddy, but the traxxas al mount sucks as much as the stocker. I stripped mine out by hand with an L-Allen having the short L-part in my fingers.

New era makes a nice beefy one. I just purchased the integy one, but after getting it, I wouldn't recommend it. Whatever they use as a tap is to fat for good bite with the screws. I purchased the new era one a long time ago Engine Mount , but never used it and traded it back in for a 21 upgrade instead.

Now I wish I had it since I run another 15 maxx... oh well.
 
Ok, I took the maxx, and put the alum center skid on it. Then I went out and bought the only aftermarket motor mount they had.. the integy one.

It tightened down nice. I snugged up the tranny nice and tight too. Took it out tuned it abit, and the mesh was messed up again.

I took the maxx, and looked long and hard. For some reason the engine was pointing downward at the clutchbell. Like a saggin diving board. I grabbed the head, and the rear shock tower. and put some pressure on it. The whole chassis bends in the middle, just enough to mess up the hoprizontal alignment of the engine.

the chassis had worn spots where the engine mounts go, it made little grooves that force the mount to set uneven. I put washers underneath the engine mount, and it seems to be better. Now flexing the chassi still moves a bit, but not enough to mess up the mesh. It seems those grooves made it sit at an angle, and that made gear mesh really picky.



As for the diet change.. it's along story you couldn't belive it unless you've seen the change in me. I have bad rheumetoid arthritis. I haven't been able to walk without a cane in a year. I notice that whenever I ate a lot of wheat, or processed enriched flour (donuts lots of sandwiches etc) My R/A got intolerable I was bed ridden 45% of the time.

On a whim I cut out all processed enriched wheat, and the protein/paste they take form wheat (gluten) I cut it out 100%. I could go on about the results, but it's absolutely no lie a new lease on life for me.

I have less swellling, less pain, more energy. I'm now in bed at 9-10 and up at four. I sleep all night without waking up in pain. I can drive my wifes truck now (stick shift) and I'm gaining weight for the first time in 4 years. No more heartburn, no more indegestion. Oh yeah! the bags under my eyes iIthought were from age..gone no trace.

The side effect is that i'm a lot easier to get along with. life is good :D
 
Good to hear lykan, I have blown knees and hands. One shoulder is messed up from a motorcycle accident, then messed up again in football, oh yeah, then again in powerlifting... I'm an idiot.

Half my family (mom's side) has arthritis, it really sucks. Half the time I can't walk around without sounding like I"m making pop corn in my knees (I'm 28).

You will definatly need your strength to deal with this monstor hobby. It's a pain at times, but it is fun when everything is working.
 
i would suggest getting a new chassis then, get rid of the flex. I like the R/C Raven racing chassis, 3.5mm thick, many colors and i think only $40.00.

later
 

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