Car stand and more

[ahr43]

Awaiting arrival of parts, so turned my focus to tools.

Hudy car stand rubber strips were showing wear. That and my R1E rustler CF chassis does not have countersunk chassis screws. It rocks a bit on the stand. Glued a pair of 1/8in thick neoprene strips atop the Hudy strips to correct both issues.

The 1/4in drive set I bought for my dad fifty years ago. He put it to immediate use and wore a good bit of the gold plating off. It came back to me when he passed in 1996. Over the years it became scattered about amongst other tools. Gathered it all up for display. Added my own Snap-On pocket screwdriver that got frequent use back in the '60s.

Feel free to post up your favorite car stands and collectable tools here. The good, the bad and the ugly. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[WickedFog]

The only things I have left that belonged to my dad is an old Unimat miniature lathe/mill and my Fender Malibu guitar.

I need to grab me a 1/10 car stand. Or maybe I could just go design and print one

 

[Maximum_Quake_Pro.com]

why not address the not countersunk hardware still?

its easy to countersink if your chassis isnt

 

[ahr43]

why not address the not countersunk hardware still?

its easy to countersink if your chassis isnt

A good recommendation and something worth considering. Thanks. In practical application, though, my drilling is not precise. Countersinking holes requires that or chassis add-ons get pulled out of "square". Front and rear wheel set alignment was more critical to me than a flush fastened under chassis. Drilling slightly oversize straight (un-countersunk) holes gave me the "wiggle room" need for good alignment and straight running.

Regarding an ugly car stand, a 4 x 4 wood block works for the MT10. Underneath of the MT10 defies sitting on the car stands in my inventory. The 4 x 4 works, so it gets the call. May dress it up some day to look better. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Maximum_Quake_Pro.com]

all i do is use a slightly larger drill bit same size or a tad larger diameter than the screw head and go very slow just deep enough for screw head to be flush.

But i understand function over form as well, some of my models didnt have countersunk hardware under chassis or countersunk holes from factory and one of the biggest things that bug me too lol

 

[WickedFog]

all i do is use a slightly larger drill bit same size or a tad larger diameter than the screw head and go very slow just deep enough for screw head to be flush.

But i understand function over form as well, some of my models didnt have countersunk hardware under chassis or countersunk holes from factory and one of the biggest things that bug me too lol

Metric screws are 90°. Drill points are normally 120°. The bottom of the screw will run into the countersink before the head sits flat, which with carbon fiber, could cause it to delaminate. If it were me, I would invest in a 90° burr like this one...
SK-5 Cone 90 Degree Tungsten Carbide Burr File (1/2"Cutting dia X1/4"Cutting Length) with 1/4" Shank dia,1pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTKH5L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_ZYX7VDZ53V3YE0E3H952

 

[Maximum_Quake_Pro.com]

My stand for tenth scales is a roll of packing tape with random foam pad about 4x6 or so on top.

For 8th scales i use an old monster truck wheel or 2 smaller ones if needed.

I bought new car stands before, i broke the duratrax ones too easily and another one i had was made for maxx trucks or similar i learned wouldnt hold a flat chassis securely

Metric screws are 90°. Drill points are normally 120°. The bottom of the screw will run into the countersink before the head sits flat, which with carbon fiber, could cause it to delaminate. If it were me, I would invest in a 90° burr like this one...
SK-5 Cone 90 Degree Tungsten Carbide Burr File (1/2"Cutting dia X1/4"Cutting Length) with 1/4" Shank dia,1pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTKH5L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_ZYX7VDZ53V3YE0E3H952

okay your more knowledgeable on this than myself by far.I rarely use metric and allen head hardware on my stuff just like for motor mounts and if came with stock. WHY I WORK ON OLD DURATRAX takes me minutes to fully disassemble the ones i collect lol. I like my method i have always done when no drill press to use. But I'm not building for others anymore or id be more professional with that.

can't tell where I've used my method once hardware is in though.

 

[WickedFog]

My stand for tenth scales is a roll of packing tape with random foam pad about 4x6 or so on top.

For 8th scales i use an old monster truck wheel or 2 smaller ones if needed.

I bought new car stands before, i broke the duratrax ones too easily and another one i had was made for maxx trucks or similar i learned wouldnt hold a flat chassis securely

okay your more knowledgeable on this than myself by far.I rarely use metric and allen head hardware on my stuff just like for motor mounts and if came with stock. WHY I WORK ON OLD DURATRAX takes me minutes to fully disassemble the ones i collect lol. I like my method i have always done when no drill press to use. But I'm not building for others anymore or id be more professional with that.

can't tell where I've used my method once hardware is in though.

Whatever works for you

Imperial hardware is 100°, so it would be closer to the angle of a 120° drill point. But if you want a nicer finish, you can't beat a burr like that, especially for carbon fiber. The burrs cut a lot better.

 

[Maximum_Quake_Pro.com]

Whatever works for you

Imperial hardware is 100°, so it would be closer to the angle of a 120° drill point. But if you want a nicer finish, you can't beat a burr like that, especially for carbon fiber. The burrs cut a lot better.

i appreciate the information sir

 

[ahr43]

Using anodize aluminum countersink washers on the underside of the chassis to spread the load preventing pull through on the screws. Washer-face screws work too. Using a couple of those as well. CF brand is 'DragonPlate' (I think) from circa 2005. Soft on the underside; hard on top. It was the go-to brand back when this chassis was fabricated.

Inside calipers are a set of dad's as well from his machinist days in WWII. Use them these days for checking and setting ride height. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Xraycer]

Here's my ghetto car stand. One $1 pool noodle connector and one $5 double tier lazy susan. Works well though!

 

[Cheez ‘n’ Quackers]

I’m super happy with this.

 

[WickedFog]

Forgot about this thread. Here's mine. I mentioned above about designing and printing one lol.