• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Car dies about 30 secs in and gets hot. Please help.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

redhatman

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
1,903
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
ok, my car starts and all. I will be driving and about 30 secs in, the car just dies. I then feel the engine and it is extremely hot. What does this mean? Tuned wrong? New Piston? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
Re tune the engine,check for air leaks,and get a reading on how hot your engine is.
 
i do not have any sort of "temp taker" so i dont know that part. All I know is that after about 30 secs, you can't even hold your finger on the engine for one-one-thousand. Also, my neighbor looked at it over the weekend and he said that my engine does most likely not have enough compression so that is why it stopped. He told me that I should go and buy a new piston if I can not get it to keep on running. I looked at my lhs and a new piston/sleeve and that is $72.90. If this is the case wouldnt I just be better off buying a whole new motor. I have the O.S. .15 CV Motor and I think that the motor is only like $80. Any other ideasm besides new piston? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
Diagnose the problem before dropping in a new engine. That's like buying a new tire for your 1:1 becuase it has a nail in it somewhere. Find the problem first, then fix it.

A temp gun will run you $35 and is needed even with a new engine. Till then, do the "spit test."

Spit on the cooling head. If the spit sizzles away on contact, it's too hot. If it sits there it's too cold. If it sits for about 3-5 seconds then vaporizes, you're in the general temp range.

If your piston/sleeve was shot, you would be able to turn the flywheel with little ot no resistance. I honestly think you just need a retune.
 
If it gets that hot that fast, your LSN is WAY too lean. I would give it a half turn out, and see what happens at that point. You will probably have to raise your idle screw also. Again, do that with the trim knob all the way down. If it still gets too hot, make adjustments 1/16 turn at a time. Check the setting by pinching off the fuel line close to the carb (when it's up to temp) and count the seconds till the engine quits. You want between 3 -4 seconds. The LSN effects your idle and take off. When they are good, WOT is adjusted with the HSN. Proper adjustment there will also have an effect on temp. Look for a good smoke trail to make sure it's not too lean.
 
is the lsn like the hsn, where if you turn it clockwise, it will get richer? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
Both needles work like a water faucet to a garden hose. Turning it counter clockwise will open it, and counter clockwise will close it, or make it leaner.
 
o really?!?!? lol, thats y i can't seem to tune it. If I am not seeing enough smoke, I tighten the needles. I guess thats not right is it. So I should be turning it counter clockwise if there is not enough smoke right? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
redhatman said:
o really?!?!? lol, thats y i can't seem to tune it. If I am not seeing enough smoke, I tighten the needles. I guess thats not right is it. So I should be turning it counter clockwise if there is not enough smoke right? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
Well, sounds like you gotta get her retuned so set the engine back to factory settings and take it from there.
 
ok, I think that I will try that tomorrow. So pretty much, If it is running lean (like not enough smoke) then what I do is just unscrew the needle accordingly,... correct? Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
If all else fails pull the motor, then pull the piston and sleeve. Take note of what position where everything goes. Take the piston and CAREFULLY push it up through the sleeve. It should tighten up towards the top. It it fairly easily pushes to the top (or beyond) its time for a new P/S.

Best of luck,
Mike
 
But if i turn the flywheel and there is a "pinch" then that means that I dont need a new one right? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
hey, started it up today. What it does is it starts up and it will slowly die, but i will give it a "blip" and it will get back up and drop down, and then eventually stop the car (after about 30 sec). I dont think that this affects it, but a lot of gas was coming out of the exhaust when it was on. If I flooded it, could this be why it wont stay on? It starts and all, but It just shoots out gas and turns off after 30 sec. Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
If it's spitting fuel at idle, you need to lean the LSN by 1/16 increments. Make the adjustment, blip the throttle a few times, and see if it improves. You might spit a lot of fuel when you blip it, since the HSN might still be too rich, and oil has built up in the exhaust. Adjust it a little more, if necessary, till the idle is good, and you only get little droplets at idle. (I'm not talking about what blows out when you blip it) Again, you will probably need to adjust the idle screw also as you change your LSN settings.
When you have a good take off, you then adjust the HSN for WOT running.
The HSN also has an overall effect on incoming fuel, so after getting the WOT right, you might need to readjust the LSN slightly.
You should really get a temp gauge. When I know the temp at idle, it makes everything else a lot easier.
 
Back
Top